The Enduring Legacy of the Raketa Big Zero: A Comprehensive Guide to Its History, Models, and Authentication

The Enduring Legacy of the Raketa Big Zero: A Comprehensive Guide to Its History, Models, and Authentication

Introduction: The Soviet Timekeeping Icon

The Raketa Big Zero is far more than a mere timepiece; it represents an iconic symbol of Soviet design and a tangible fragment of history. Its distinctive, minimalist aesthetic, characterised by oversized numerals and a prominent “0” at the 12 o’clock position, has captivated collectors worldwide. This design, initially conceived for practical reasons, transcended its original purpose to become a cultural landmark, particularly during the Perestroika era.  

This report aims to delve deeper into the Raketa Big Zero, exploring its complex history, diverse models, and technical specifications. It intends to uncover lesser-known facts, verify existing information, and provide a comprehensive comparative analysis between vintage and modern iterations. Furthermore, this guide seeks to equip collectors with essential authentication advice, aiding them in navigating the intricate market of Soviet-era watches.

Raketa Big Zero

I. The Petrodvorets Watch Factory: From Imperial Origins to the Birth of Raketa

Foundation and Link to Peter the Great (1721)

The Petrodvorets Watch Factory, the birthplace of Raketa watches, boasts a remarkably long and distinguished history, with its origins tracing back to 1721. It was established by decree of Emperor Peter the Great, initially as a lapidary factory specialising in the processing of precious stones and jewellery. This imperial heritage underscores the factory’s deep roots in Russian craftsmanship and its historical significance, predating many renowned Swiss watch manufacturers. The factory is still housed in its original building in Peterhof (Saint Petersburg).  

The factory’s founding by Peter the Great in 1721 and its continued operation in the historic Peterhof building indicate a strong emphasis on historical continuity and national pride. This is not merely a watch factory; it is an institution deeply intertwined with Russia’s history and achievements. This long and unbroken lineage, which even spanned the Soviet period, bestows a level of prestige and authenticity that many newer brands lack. This characteristic serves as a powerful positioning tool for the modern Raketa brand , also suggesting a deep accumulation of generational skills and knowledge, a distinguishing factor in an industry where many companies outsource production.  

The Naming of “Raketa” in Honour of Yuri Gagarin (1961)

The brand name “Raketa” was established much later, in 1961, to commemorate a pivotal moment in human history: Yuri Gagarin’s first manned space flight aboard Vostok 1. This naming decision, meaning “Rocket” in Russian, directly linked the watches to Soviet innovation and industrial might, positioning them as symbols of national achievement.  

The choice to name the brand “Raketa” in 1961, following Gagarin’s flight, proved to be a strategic branding move during the Cold War. This decision immediately associated the watches with Soviet technological triumphs and national pride. However, this association also generated a negative perception in the West, where “Raketa” was linked to intercontinental ballistic missiles. This dual perception highlights how deeply the brand was intertwined with the geopolitical context of the era, transforming a consumer good into a subtle propaganda tool. This historical context adds significant depth to the brand’s narrative for collectors.  

Raketa’s Role in the Soviet Era: Production for Military, Explorers, and Civilians

During the Soviet era, Raketa watches were not mere consumer goods; they served critical functions for various state entities. They were produced for the Red Army, the Soviet Navy, and for North Pole expeditions, indicating a focus on robustness and reliability in extreme environments. Specialised models like the “Polar” (1969), with a 24-hour movement, were specifically designed for Arctic explorers to distinguish day from night. The factory also holds the world’s largest collection of watch design archives. The “Baikonur” model, designed in collaboration with cosmonaut Sergey Krikalev, featured special functions necessary for space travel. Raketa also collaborated with major aircraft manufacturers like Sukhoi and Tupolev to develop watches for pilots. At its peak in the 1970s, Raketa was among the world’s largest watch manufacturers, producing approximately five million mechanical watches annually.  

The extensive production of watches for the military, navy, and explorers , coupled with the development of specialised models like the “Polar” and “Baikonur” , demonstrates that functionality and durability were absolute priorities in Soviet design, often outweighing luxury or aesthetic embellishments. This approach starkly contrasts with Western watchmaking, which tended to emphasise prestige and elaborate complications. This “function before flourish” philosophy, born out of necessity and state-controlled production, holds a strong appeal for many modern collectors of Soviet watches , offering a unique blend of history and robust engineering. This also implies a high standard of internal quality control, given the critical nature of these watches’ applications.  

Post-Soviet Revival (2010) and Commitment to In-House Production

Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Raketa faced significant challenges in adapting to a market economy. However, its fortunes began to change in 2010 with a revival led by British entrepreneur David Henderson-Stewart. Under new management, Raketa adopted modern production methods while preserving its heritage, notably by continuing to produce its mechanical movements entirely in-house, “from A to Z”. This commitment to vertical integration, including the production of hairsprings and escapements , is a rare feat in the global watch industry, distinguishing Raketa from most brands that rely on external suppliers like Nivarox. The factory even attracted former Rolex and Breguet watchmakers to modernise its production.  

The post-Soviet revival led by David Henderson-Stewart and the renewed focus on in-house movement production represent a strategic move to reposition Raketa in the global luxury market. In an industry where “manufacture” status is highly valued, Raketa’s ability to produce its own hairsprings and escapements provides a strong narrative of authenticity and a competitive advantage over brands that merely assemble external components. This commitment to traditional watchmaking, combined with a modern marketing approach, allows Raketa to appeal to both vintage watch enthusiasts and new collectors seeking genuine horological value.  

II. The “Big Zero”: Design Genesis and the Gorbachev Legend

The Original 1970s Design and Its Minimalist Aesthetic

The original design of the Raketa “Big Zero” dates back to the 1970s. Its aesthetic is distinctly minimalist, characterised by a clean, uncluttered dial with oversized numerals for 3, 6, 9, and a prominent “0” at the 12 o’clock position. The other hour markers are typically represented by long, narrow triangles. This bold, almost “brutal” yet functional design, with its high-contrast black and white colour scheme, ensured excellent legibility.  

The “Big Zero” design, originating in the 1970s , with its oversized numerals and the “0” at 12 o’clock, was initially conceived for practical purposes, such as making it easier for visually impaired individuals to read the time or ensuring clear time indication in challenging conditions. This emphasis on legibility and functionality aligns with the broader Soviet design philosophy, where utility often took precedence over ornamental aesthetics. The enduring appeal of the design lies precisely in this radical simplicity, which, ironically, has made it a timeless classic.  

The Philosophy Behind the “0” Instead of “12”: Functionality and Symbolism

The most striking feature, the “0” instead of “12”, is not merely a design quirk. According to seasoned experts from the Raketa factory, it is rooted in a logical principle: “it is simply more logical to start counting time from zero. After all, time, like many aspects of our lives, invariably begins from zero”. This “rebellious concept” challenges traditional timekeeping norms, expressing a philosophical statement about new beginnings.  

While it might appear to be a simple design choice, the “0” at 12 o’clock possesses a deeper, almost subversive utility. It is a pragmatic approach to time-telling that also embodies a philosophical statement about starting anew. This “zero” concept, coupled with the watch’s later association with Perestroika, gives the “Big Zero” a symbolic weight that extends far beyond its mechanical function, making it particularly appealing to collectors interested in the cultural and historical narratives embedded in objects. It is a watch that, literally and figuratively, marked a fresh start.  

The Mikhail Gorbachev Anecdote and “Perestroika”: Analysing the Legend and Its Impact on Popularity

The Raketa “Big Zero” gained considerable international fame due to an anecdote involving Mikhail Gorbachev, the General Secretary of the USSR. During an official visit to Italy in the 1980s , when asked to explain the meaning of “Perestroika” (restructuring), Gorbachev reportedly pointed to his Raketa Big Zero watch and stated: “It’s like my watch: the Soviet people aspire to start everything from zero” or “It expresses the Russians’ determination to start their lives from ‘zero'”. This direct gesture made headlines in Italy and cemented the watch’s status as a legendary design. Although the exact origin of the design predates Gorbachev’s use, the anecdote undeniably boosted its popularity.  

The Gorbachev anecdote transformed the “Big Zero” from a functional timepiece into a cultural icon. This direct link to a central historical figure and a transformative political movement (“Perestroika”) significantly increased its collectability and market value. The story, regardless of its precise historical accuracy regarding the design’s intent, has become an integral part of the watch’s identity, demonstrating how historical narratives and public figures can profoundly influence the perception and desirability of consumer goods.  

Historical Context of Perestroika and Glasnost and Their Influence on Soviet Design

Perestroika (restructuring) and Glasnost (openness) were Mikhail Gorbachev’s reforms aimed at revitalising the stagnant Soviet economy and increasing political openness. These reforms introduced elements of market economics, encouraged private enterprise, and reduced central planning, leading to greater political and cultural freedoms and increased access to Western ideas and consumer goods. However, they also led to economic challenges such as shortages and inflation. The “Big Zero” emerged during this period of significant societal transformation , symbolising the desire for a fresh start.  

The “Big Zero” design, with its symbolism of “starting from zero”, perfectly encapsulated the spirit of Perestroika and Glasnost. This connection goes beyond a mere anecdote; it suggests that even consumer goods like watches could reflect the profound social and political changes underway in the USSR. The watch became a subtle yet powerful representation of a nation grappling with change and aspiring to a new beginning, making it a compelling artefact for understanding the late Soviet era.  

III. Historical Models and Variants of the Raketa Big Zero (Soviet Era)

Distinctive Features: Details on Cases, Dials, and Hands

Vintage Raketa Big Zero watches are most commonly characterised by a cushion-shaped case, particularly reference #51. This case measures approximately 39mm in width (excluding crown), 40.5mm lug-to-lug, and 11mm in thickness. It features a smooth, press-on bezel with a slight bevel towards the crystal and a subtle upward curve in its profile when viewed from the side. The lugs are relatively small, which can sometimes make strap pairing challenging. Some vintage models were also available with a barrel-shaped stainless steel case. The case material was often chrome-plated brass.  

Dials are typically black and white, offering high contrast. The iconic “0” at 12 o’clock, along with the numerals 3, 6, and 9, are oversized. The remaining hour markers are generally represented by long, narrow triangles. A crucial aspect for authentication is that these numerals and triangles are applied markers, appearing as a type of glossy resin or thin metal, rather than simply being printed. The tips of these wedge-shaped markers should be slightly rounded in cushion-cased variants, although some authentic dials from 1980s catalogues may feature sharper tips. The “0” itself is often described as “squarish” rather than a perfect oval.  

The hour and minute hands are characteristically thick and bold, often described as “stubby”, with a slight tip or curve at their ends. The seconds hand is thin but flares slightly at the back end. These specific shapes are important for authentication, as incorrect hands are a common sign of “franken-watches” (watches assembled from non-original parts).  

Vintage Big Zeros typically featured a steeply-domed acrylic (plexiglass) crystal. An authentic Raketa Big Zero crystal is described as “hockey puck”-shaped, with sharp edges that angle up 90 degrees towards a flat surface. This contrasts with modern sapphire crystals.  

The consistency of design elements in vintage Big Zero models, such as the specific case shapes (cushion/barrel), applied numerals with rounded tips , and distinctive hand shapes , suggests a standardised production process within the Soviet system. The use of acrylic crystals instead of sapphire (common in modern versions) indicates the material availability and technological constraints of the era. However, this consistency also makes deviations from these norms critical indicators for identifying fakes or “franken-watches”, highlighting the importance of understanding original production specifications for collectors.  

The 2609.HA Movement: Detailed Technical Specifications, Reputation for Reliability, and Common Issues

The Soviet-era Raketa Big Zero typically housed the mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2609.HA movement.  

Technical Specifications:

FeatureDetail
Calibre NameRaketa 2609.HA
TypeMechanical (Hand-Wound)
Launch YearCirca 1975
Jewels19 (some variants 17)
Frequency18,000 beats/hour (2.5 Hz)
Power Reserve45 hours (some sources indicate 36 hours or 24 hours )
FunctionsHours, Minutes, Central Seconds
Shock ProtectionYes
Dimensions (Overall Diameter)26.65 mm
Height4.4 mm
ReputationReliable, Robust, Durable

Reputation for Reliability: The 2609.HA movement is widely recognised for its durability and robustness. It is described as a “utilitarian, but very robust” movement that “can hold up to a lot”. It was even considered “the most reliable and robust movement in the world” in its time, with Russian watches exported to 38 countries. This reliability was a hallmark of Soviet watchmaking, which prioritised functionality and longevity over planned obsolescence.  

Common Issues and Serviceability: While robust, vintage 2609.HA movements can exhibit issues due to age and lack of servicing. Common problems include low amplitude and inconsistent accuracy, especially when worn, which might indicate a loose hairspring. Setting issues, where the stem moves freely without interacting with the hands, can occur if the cannon pinion binds, causing minute wheel teeth to shear off. Repairs can be costly due to the need for non-standard parts. Servicing these movements requires specific techniques, particularly for delicate parts like the escape wheel jewels. Collectors are advised that antique watches are generally not waterproof and must be protected from moisture, and hands should only be adjusted clockwise to prevent damage.  

The reputation of the 2609.HA calibre as a “robust” and “durable” movement is a direct consequence of Soviet-era production priorities. In a planned economy, the emphasis was on producing reliable, long-lasting goods for the masses and for critical state functions (military, exploration). This contrasts with market economies where planned obsolescence might be a factor. The common issues reported today (low amplitude, setting problems) are primarily age-related, not inherent design flaws, which underscores the movement’s fundamental durability. The difficulty in sourcing non-standard parts for repairs is a direct implication of the shift from a centralised production system to a global market, where parts for defunct Soviet industries are scarce.  

Dial Variants and Markings: Analysing “Paketa” (Cyrillic) vs “Raketa” (English) and “Made in USSR” vs “Made in Russia” as Time and Market Indicators

The markings on the dial of vintage Raketa Big Zero watches provide crucial indicators for authentication and dating.

Logo: The brand logo can appear in two ways: “Paketa” (РАКЕТА in Cyrillic) or “Raketa” (in Latin characters). “Paketa” is characteristic of earlier Soviet-era models intended for the domestic market, while “Raketa” in Latin characters indicates more modern pieces or those produced closer to the collapse of the USSR (around 1992) for export.  

Country Designation: Authentic Soviet-era dials typically feature “Сделано в CCCP” (Made in USSR in Cyrillic) for models intended for the domestic market or “Made in USSR” for export models. A red flag for authenticity is a dial with both “Paketa” (Cyrillic) and “Made in Russia” (English) simultaneously, or a dial with no country designation at all. Later (post-Soviet) models may bear “Сделано в России” or “Made in Russia”.  

Quality Mark: Some vintage Big Zero models, particularly those from 1986 catalogues, might display the USSR state quality seal.  

The variations in dial markings, such as Cyrillic “Paketa” versus Latin “Raketa”, and “Made in USSR” versus “Made in Russia” , serve as fundamental linguistic and historical markers. They reflect the Soviet Union’s evolving relationship with the global market and its subsequent dissolution. The shift to Latin script and “Made in Russia” signalling a post-Soviet era of increasing internationalisation and a move away from the more insular Soviet identity. For collectors, these subtle textual changes are vital for dating a watch and assessing its authenticity and market origin.  

Special and Rare Editions

The Raketa Big Zero did not only exist in its most common form but also saw the production of various rare and special variants that add complexity and allure to its lineage.

The “Big Zero Geiger”: This is a particularly unique and mysterious variant. It is said to have been assembled in Italy by an import company named “Mirabilia” in the late 1980s, using original Raketa Big Zero parts but adding a “unique local touch”. The most intriguing aspect is the intentional misspelling “Geigher” instead of “Geiger”. The theory suggests this was done to avoid negative associations with Geiger counters and radioactivity, especially after the Chernobyl incident in 1986, when public sensitivity to radioactivity was high. The Big Zero Geiger exists in two main variants: black and ochre, and black and grey. Both are extremely rare and highly sought after by collectors for their rarity, Soviet-Italian connection, and the mystery surrounding the name error.  

Raketa Caution Contact Gaigher
Raketa Caution Contact Gaigher

Stone Dials (e.g., Jade) and Their Rarity: Raketa also produced Big Zero models with dials crafted from natural stone, such as jade. These dials, typically 0.5mm thick, boast unique and unrepeatable textures, making each watch a one-of-a-kind piece. They were produced in limited quantities, often by special order, and primarily intended for the Italian market. Cases for these models could be chrome-plated brass or titanium nitride (for yellow dials). These stone dial watches are now considered rare collectible items.  

soviet watch Raketa Big Zero Nephrite
Raketa Big Zero Nephrite

The Pocket Watch Version: A pocket watch variant matching the “Big Zero” design also existed, with catalogue images dating back to 1986. These “Big Zero” pocket watches typically feature a white dial with oversized black numerals and are powered by the Raketa 2609.HA hand-wound mechanical movement.  

soviet watch Raketa Big Zero Pocket
Raketa Big Zero Pocket

The existence of the “Big Zero Geiger” and the stone dial variants , particularly their Italian market orientation, reveals Raketa’s efforts to adapt to specific market demands and create niche products even during the Soviet era. The “Geigher” misspelling is a fascinating example of how external geopolitical events (Chernobyl) could directly influence product naming and marketing, highlighting a reactive and perhaps cautious approach to international sales. These rare variants demonstrate that Soviet production was not entirely monolithic and could respond to perceived market opportunities, adding layers of complexity to the brand’s history.  

Raketa Pocket Watches: Finishes and Sailboat Engravings

In addition to wristwatches, Raketa also produced pocket watches with distinctive features. These pocket watches were generally powered by the Raketa 2609.HA hand-wound movement and featured typical dimensions of approximately 44mm overall diameter with the crown and 11.1mm thickness. Cases were often made of brass with chrome plating or, in some instances, gold-plated.  

A notable aesthetic element on some Raketa pocket watches is the “caseback with a bas-relief in the form of a sailing ship”. This motif, variously described as “Raketa SHIP” or “Navy Brigantine” , was often paired with white dials featuring a matte surface and thin black Roman numerals, complemented by black, straight, thin hands. The sailboat likely symbolised Russia’s maritime heritage and naval power, given Raketa’s historical connection to the Soviet Navy and its location in Saint Petersburg.  

It is important to note that while Raketa produced both “Big Zero” pocket watches and pocket watches with sailboat engravings , current research does not indicate the existence of an original factory Raketa “Big Zero” pocket watch that combines both features (a “Big Zero” dial and a sailboat engraving on the caseback). Descriptions of sailboat pocket watches consistently refer to dials with Roman numerals , suggesting these were distinct design lines. Therefore, a pocket watch claiming to combine a “Big Zero” dial with a sailboat engraving should be examined with extreme caution, as it may be a “frankenwatch” or a non-original assembly.  

Table 1: Technical Specifications of the Raketa 2609.HA Movement

The following table provides a consolidated reference for the mechanical heart of vintage Big Zeros. For collectors, verifying movement specifications is crucial for authentication and understanding the watch’s performance characteristics. The inclusion of variations (e.g., 17 or 19 jewels, power reserve discrepancies) highlights the nuances of Soviet production and helps manage expectations regarding the performance of vintage pieces. It also serves as a direct comparison point for modern automatic movements, illustrating the Big Zero’s technical evolution.

FeatureDetail
Calibre NameRaketa 2609.HA
TypeMechanical (Hand-Wound)
Launch YearCirca 1975
Jewels19 (some variants 17)
Frequency18,000 beats/hour (2.5 Hz)
Power Reserve45 hours (Note: some sources indicate 36 hours or 24 hours )
FunctionsHours, Minutes, Central Seconds
Shock ProtectionYes
Dimensions (Overall Diameter)26.65 mm
Height4.4 mm
ReputationReliable, Robust, Durable

Table 2: Historical Dial Variants and Markings of the Big Zero

This table is an essential authentication tool. It systematically categorises key visual cues on the dial, hands, and case that distinguish authentic vintage Big Zeros from fakes or “franken-watches”. By presenting these variations and their implications (e.g., time indicators, market origin), it empowers collectors to make informed purchasing decisions and appreciate the subtle historical evolution of the watch’s aesthetic.

FeatureAuthentic CharacteristicsImplicationsRed Flags
Dial Logo“Paketa” (РАКЕТА in Cyrillic) or “Raketa” (Latin)Cyrillic for earlier domestic Soviet market; Latin for later Soviet or export models Mix of Cyrillic logo and “Made in Russia” (English)
Country Designation“Сделано в CCCP” (Cyrillic) or “Made in USSR” (English)Cyrillic for domestic Soviet market; English for export models. “Made in Russia” for post-Soviet era No country designation; Mix of Cyrillic logo and “Made in Russia” (English)
Hour Marker Shape (Triangles)Rounded tips (for cushion case); some 1980s catalogues show sharper tips Key detail for cushion-cased model authentication Pointy/sharp tips on cushion-cased models
Numeral ApplicationApplied markers (glossy resin or thin metal, slightly raised) Indicates higher quality and original production Flat/printed numerals
HandsThick, bold, “stubby” hour/minute hands with slight tip/curve; thin seconds hand with slight flare at back Specific proportions and shapes are crucial for originality Hands with incorrect shapes or proportions
CrystalAcrylic, “hockey puck” shape (sharp 90-degree edges towards flat top) Reflects original Soviet-era materials Domed or overly rounded crystal

IV. The Raketa Big Zero in the Modern Era: Continuity and Innovation

The Contemporary Re-edition of the Big Zero: Models 0283 (White), 0296 (Black), 0297 (Grey), and the “Arabic” Edition

Raketa has successfully re-issued the iconic Big Zero in contemporary collections, maintaining its distinctive design while incorporating modern materials and movements.  

Current Models:

  • Big Zero 0283 (White): Features a matte white dial with multi-layered lacquered black numerals and indices, paired with a black leather strap. It was launched in 2022.  
  • Big Zero 0296 (Black): A black dial variant with white numerals, launched in late 2023, featuring highly luminescent numerals and indices.  
  • Big Zero 0297 (Grey): Introduced for the first time with a stainless steel bracelet, it features a grey dial that changes shade from taupe to metallic depending on the light. It also boasts bright Superluminova-coated hands and large numerals for optimal night readability. This was a limited production of 200 pieces in its launch year.  
  • Big Zero Arabic: Reimagined specifically for the Middle East, this limited edition (initially 100 pieces) features Eastern Arabic numerals on a black and white dial, with the Raketa logo in Arabic script designed by renowned calligrapher Mohammad Sharaf. This collaboration reflects a growing interest in foreign watch brands in the Middle East and Raketa’s strategy to combine Russian watchmaking history with regional cultural elements.  

Common Technical Specifications (Modern Models):

  • Movement: Raketa 2615 in-house automatic calibre.
    • Jewels: 24 jewels (some sources indicate 27, potentially an earlier variant of the 2615).  
    • Frequency: 18,000 beats/hour (2.5 Hz).  
    • Power Reserve: 40 hours.  
    • Winding: Bi-directional automatic winding with a stopper system for manual winding.  
    • Accuracy: -10/+20 seconds per day.  
    • Decoration: Laser engraving, Neva waves, and often a red rotor visible through the transparent caseback.  
    • Material Origin: All metal and the 24 ruby stones of the movement come from Russia, with the hairspring cast from a secret Soviet alloy, contributing to a distinctive acoustic signature.  
  • Case: Stainless steel, cushion shape, 40mm diameter, 14.05mm thickness, 43mm lug-to-lug. Crown with a ruby stone underneath.  
  • Crystal: Sapphire on the front, mineral on the transparent caseback.  
  • Water Resistance: 10 ATM / 100 metres.  
  • Luminosity: Hands and indices with Superluminova coating.  

The modern re-editions of the Big Zero (0283, 0296, 0297, Arabic) demonstrate Raketa’s successful strategy in modernising its brand while retaining its fundamental design identity. The shift from the hand-wound 2609.HA movement to the automatic 2615 movement , the upgrade to sapphire crystal, and increased water resistance reflect contemporary market expectations for luxury watches. However, the retention of the iconic “Big Zero” dial and the commitment to in-house movement production (even with Russian materials) highlight a deliberate effort to maintain authenticity and appeal to both new and traditional collectors. The limited editions and regional variants (like the Arabic dial) further showcase a sophisticated marketing approach to cater to diverse global markets.  

Comparison Between Vintage and Modern Models: Technical and Philosophical Evolution

The comparison between vintage and modern Raketa Big Zero models reveals a significant evolution both technically and philosophically, while maintaining a strong connection to the original design identity.

Movement: The most significant transition is the shift from the hand-wound 2609.HA calibre (vintage) to the automatic 2615 calibre (modern). While the 2609.HA was known for its robustness and simplicity in an era of mass production , the 2615 offers the convenience of automatic winding, a 40-hour power reserve, and more elaborate decoration visible through the transparent caseback.  

Materials and Finishes: Modern models utilise stainless steel for the case and sapphire crystal for the front, enhancing durability and scratch resistance compared to the chrome-plated brass and acrylic crystal of vintage pieces. The addition of a ruby in the crown on modern models adds a touch of luxury.  

Water Resistance: Vintage models were generally not waterproof , whereas modern ones offer 10 ATM / 100 metres of resistance, making them suitable for daily wear and light swimming.  

Design Philosophy: Although the iconic “Big Zero” design remains faithful to the original, the transition from a functional, mass-produced Soviet-era watch to a collectible, luxury piece in the modern era is evident. Modern models are positioned for an audience that appreciates both history and in-house craftsmanship, with an average price point of around €1,200. The limited production of some modern editions (e.g., 200 pieces for the grey, 100 for the Arabic) underscores their exclusivity.  

The comparison reveals a clear evolution from a utilitarian, mass-produced item (the vintage Big Zero) to a collectible luxury item (the modern Big Zero). This transformation is driven by technological advancements (automatic movement, sapphire, water resistance) and a strategic brand repositioning in a global market. The modern Raketa leverages its historical authenticity and in-house production capabilities to justify a higher price point and attract discerning collectors. This shift reflects broader trends in the watch industry, where historical brands adapt to new consumer expectations while preserving their unique heritage.

Table 3: Comparison Between Vintage and Modern Raketa Big Zero Models

The following table offers a concise and direct comparison highlighting the key differences and improvements between vintage and modern Big Zero models. It helps readers quickly grasp the watch’s evolution and provides practical information for collectors interested in both eras. It also reinforces the narrative of modernisation while preserving heritage.

FeatureVintage ModelsModern Models
EraSoviet (1970s – early 1990s)Post-Soviet (Revival from 2010 onwards)
MovementCalibre 2609.HA (Hand-Wound) Calibre 2615 (Automatic, In-House)
Case MaterialChrome-plated Brass Stainless Steel
Crystal MaterialAcrylic (Plexiglass) Sapphire (Front), Mineral (Caseback)
Water ResistanceGenerally Not Waterproof 10 ATM / 100 Metres
Dial Numerals/IndicesApplied, triangle tips typically rounded (cushion case) Multi-layered lacquered, Superluminova coating
Approximate Price Range$80 – $400+ (depending on condition, rarity, “franken” status) €1,200 – €2,200+ (based on models like 0283, 0297, Amphibia)

V. Authentication and Collecting Guide

Identifying Fakes and “Franken-watches”: Red Flags on Dials, Hands, Cases, and Movements

The market for vintage Soviet watches, including the Raketa Big Zero, contains a significant number of fakes and “franken-watches” (pieces assembled from non-original parts). Collectors must be vigilant.  

Dials: This is the most commonly faked component.  

  • Marker Shape: Authentic Big Zeros (especially cushion-cased ones) feature triangular hour markers with slightly rounded tips. Fakes often have pointy or sharp wedges. However, some authentic 1980s catalogues show sharper tips, so this is not a definitive standalone criterion.  
  • Numeral Shape: The “0” and other numerals (3, 6, 9) should appear “squarish” rather than perfectly oval, with subtle variations in thickness.  
  • Application: Authentic numerals and triangles are applied markers (glossy resin or thin metal, slightly raised), not simply flat printed. Flat printing is a major red flag.  
  • Print Quality: Fakes often exhibit poor print quality, with “hairy” or uneven edges on the numerals.  
  • Logo and Country Designation:
    • “Paketa” (Cyrillic) is for the domestic Soviet market; “Raketa” (Latin) for later Soviet or export models.  
    • Authentic country designations are “Сделано в CCCP” (Cyrillic) or “Made in USSR” (English).  
    • A mix of Cyrillic logo and “Made in Russia” (English) on the same dial, or the absence of any country designation, are strong red flags.  

Hands: Incorrect hands are a common issue for “franken-watches”. Authentic hour and minute hands are thick and “stubby” with a slight tip/curve, while the seconds hand is thin but flares slightly at the back. Deviations from these specific shapes are warning signs.  

Cases: The authentic Big Zero (cushion) case features a smooth, press-on bezel with a slight bevel and a continuous curve from the case midpoint to the lug tips. Many “franken-watches” feature incorrect case shapes or lugs. Vintage cases were often chrome-plated brass, which may show signs of wear over time.  

Crystal: An authentic vintage Big Zero crystal is acrylic and “hockey puck”-shaped (sharp 90-degree edges towards a flat top), not a dome.  

Pocket Watches: For pocket watches, it is crucial to verify the consistency between the dial and the caseback. While Raketa “Big Zero” pocket watches exist and Raketa pocket watches with sailboat engravings (typically with Roman numeral dials) are also found, the combination of a “Big Zero” dial with a sailboat caseback is not documented as original factory production. Therefore, a pocket watch exhibiting both these features should be considered a “frankenwatch” or a non-original assembly.  

Movement: While the 2609.HA is robust, it is important to ensure it is the correct movement for the model. Some 24-hour dials might be paired with a 2609.HA, which makes the watch a “fake” for a 24-hour watch, unless it is a third-party conversion.  

The proliferation of fakes and “franken-watches” in the Soviet watch market is a direct consequence of their increasing popularity and affordability. The detailed authentication points (dial markings, hand shapes, case contours) become critical tools for collectors. This situation reflects the challenges of collecting items from a defunct political-economic system, where original documentation might be scarce and parts supply irregular, creating a fertile ground for deceptive practices. Understanding these nuances is essential to preserving the historical integrity of a collection.  

Advice for Collectors: What to Look For, Where to Buy, Importance of Condition and Documentation

For collectors interested in the Raketa Big Zero, it is crucial to adopt an informed approach to ensure the authenticity and value of acquired pieces.

Authenticity: Always verify authenticity by checking for matching serial numbers, correct caseback engravings, and original dials. Be wary of overly polished or altered pieces.  

Condition: While patina can add character, watches with minimal modifications and original parts are more desirable. Overly restored or repainted dials can diminish collectability.  

Where to Buy: Online platforms like eBay and Chrono24 are common sources, but caution is advised due to the presence of fakes. Reputable Russian watch forums (e.g., the Russian Watch Forum on Watchuseek.com) are excellent resources for information and advice from the community. Direct purchases from official Raketa stores (physical or online) guarantee authenticity for modern models.  

Pricing: Vintage Big Zero wristwatches can range from under $105 to over $160, with some rare variants fetching higher prices (e.g., “Big Zero” Peterhof CCCP full set NOS at $370, or “Salmon Dial” at $416). Raketa pocket watches with sailboat engravings can be found in the range of approximately $55-$70 , while Raketa “Big Zero” pocket watches are priced between approximately $89 and $176. Modern re-editions are significantly higher priced, around €1,200 – €2,200. The value of Soviet watches is increasing due to their historical depth, unique appeal, and the growing scarcity of well-preserved pieces.  

Serviceability: It is important to be aware that vintage mechanical watches often require servicing. While the 2609.HA is robust, repairs can be costly due to non-standard parts. It is advisable to seek out competent hobbyists or specialised watchmakers for maintenance.  

The advice for collectors, including authenticity checks, condition assessment, and seeking reliable sources, highlights the evolving nature of the Soviet watch market. What was once a niche, affordable segment is gaining increasing attention, leading to rising values and a greater presence of fakes. The community aspect, through forums, plays a crucial role in knowledge sharing and combating fraud. This market dynamic underscores the transformation of Soviet watches from mere utilitarian objects to highly sought-after historical artefacts, whose value is increasingly tied to their verifiable originality and historical narrative.

Conclusions

The Raketa Big Zero stands as a compelling testament to Soviet horological ingenuity and design philosophy. Its journey from a functional timepiece born in the 1970s to a global cultural icon, deeply intertwined with the Perestroika era, underscores its unique historical significance. The original design, prioritising legibility and practicality, has resonated through the decades, influencing both vintage collecting and modern re-editions.

The enduring legacy of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory, from its imperial founding to its commitment to in-house movement production today, provides a robust foundation for the Raketa brand’s authenticity. The technical robustness of movements like the 2609.HA in vintage models, contrasted with the modernised automatic 2615 in contemporary versions, showcases a brand that respects its heritage while embracing innovation.

For collectors, the Raketa Big Zero offers a rich and rewarding pursuit, though it demands careful attention to authentication details. The proliferation of “franken-watches” necessitates a thorough understanding of historical dial markings, hand shapes, and case characteristics, including the distinction between wristwatch and pocket watch variants. Awareness that “Big Zero” pocket watches and those with sailboat engravings are separate design lines is crucial to avoid non-authentic pieces. The market’s appreciation for these watches continues to grow, driven by their unique blend of history, design, and mechanical integrity.

Ultimately, the Raketa Big Zero is more than a time-telling device; it is a tangible narrative of Russian history, technological ambition, and societal change, making it a truly distinctive piece in the world of horology.

Vympel: A Soviet Watchmaking Story

russian watch Vympel Vostok Operation Desert Shield

Key Moments in the History of the Vympel Brand

The Birth of Vympel in the Soviet Era (1961–1964)

Vympel, whose name translates as “pennant” in Russian (Вымпел), was launched in 1961 by the First Moscow Watch Factory (1MWF), at a time when the Soviet Union was determined to prove its technical excellence not only in space but also in everyday life. The brand was named after the pennants placed on the Moon by the Luna 2 mission, and its logo reflected the space race spirit, showing a trajectory from Earth to the Moon.

The Vympel watch was developed as a dress watch—remarkably thin and refined, directly rivalling the best that Swiss and Western watchmakers could offer at the time. Its beating heart was the calibre 2209, a hand-wound movement measuring just 2.9mm thick but still featuring a central seconds hand and shock protection. With 23 jewels, it was among the thinnest and most advanced movements in the world. The entire watch, including its flat crystal, was only about 6.5mm thick—a feat that was celebrated with a gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1963.

Vympel watches were always classified as “1st class” timepieces according to Soviet GOST standards, and they were presented in particularly elegant packaging, with a level of finishing unusual for the time. The cases were usually gold-plated (20 microns), although some special editions were made entirely in solid gold. The dial came in three main variants, always with very thin dress-style hands and a short seconds hand—necessary due to the minimal tolerance between the dial and the flat crystal.

Despite their technical sophistication and success (even Western observers described Vympel as “by far the most elegant and thinnest mass-produced men’s wristwatch in the world” at the time), the brand was short-lived. In 1964, a reorganisation saw the First Moscow Watch Factory adopt the new Poljot brand, under which the Vympel line disappeared. However, the innovative calibre 2209 continued to be manufactured—mainly by the Luch factory in Minsk—well beyond the Soviet period, becoming the base for many other ultra-thin Soviet dress watches, some even sold under the Sekonda name abroad.

Genuine Vympel watches from this brief period (1961–1964) are now considered rare collector’s items, highly prized for their history and technical achievement.

The Post-Soviet Era: Decline and the Use of Tongji Movements

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, the Vympel name was revived in a very different context. The Vitebsk Watch Factory in Belarus, which had previously supplied cases for other Soviet brands, started producing complete watches under the Vympel brand in the 1990s. At first, these used leftover Soviet Luch movements, but as resources dwindled, the factory switched to Chinese Tongji mechanical movements. The Tongji movement, standardised in China since the 1970s, was inexpensive and easy to source, but lacked the technical prestige of the original Soviet calibre 2209.

As a result, post-Soviet Vympel watches are far less refined than their predecessors. The use of Chinese movements, often identifiable by the “double pennant” Vympel logo stamped on the bridge, marked a clear break with the original ethos of the brand. By the early 2000s, the Vitebsk factory was in serious decline, and production of both complete watches and spare parts was almost entirely discontinued.

Collector’s Notes and Cautions

A word of warning for collectors: many watches labelled as Vympel found on the secondary market are not original 1960s pieces. Forums such as Watchuseek and Watch.ru frequently report examples of “Frankenwatches”—timepieces assembled from mismatched parts and falsely sold as authentic Vympels. Additionally, it is common to see any ultra-thin Soviet watch with a 2209 calibre (even if made by Luch, Poljot, or other brands) incorrectly described as a Vympel.

True Soviet Vympel watches remain rare and desirable, while post-Soviet models, particularly those with Tongji movements, are best regarded as a separate, less prestigious chapter in the history of the brand.


Sources:
(Watches of the USSR: https://mroatman.wixsite.com/watches-of-the-ussr/vympel),
(Watchuseek: https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/vympel-watch.4645513/),
(Watch.ru: https://forum.watch.ru/showthread.php?t=10399),
(SafonaGastroCrono: https://www.safonagastrocrono.club/poljot-2209-vympel-english/),
(Watch-Wiki: https://watch-wiki.org/index.php?title=Vympel)

Samara – A City of Time, History and Soviet Watches

Facciata storica della fabbrica di orologi ZIM a Samara, simbolo dell’orologeria sovietica. Historic facade of the ZIM watch factory in Samara, a symbol of Soviet watchmaking.

Welcome to Samara, a captivating Russian city nestled on the majestic banks of the Volga River. This travel guide will take you on a journey through the ages, exploring Samara’s rich past and, above all, its unexpected connection to Soviet watchmaking. From tsarist fortresses to post-war industrial giants, from the ticking legacy of ZIM wristwatches to monumental landmarks, Samara is a hidden gem waiting to be explored by watch collectors, history lovers and curious travellers alike.

A Brief History of Samara – From Fortress to Soviet Metropolis

Founded in 1586 as a military outpost to guard the Volga’s trade routes, Samara was originally built to protect Russia’s southern border after the conquest of the Kazan and Astrakhan khanates. By 1688, it officially gained city status, and despite losing it briefly in the 18th century, it eventually became a booming hub for commerce and river traffic thanks to its strategic location. Throughout the 19th century, Samara evolved into a lively provincial capital, filled with wide boulevards, Orthodox churches, and riverfront promenades.

In the Soviet era, Samara’s importance grew significantly. Renamed Kuibyshev in 1935 after the Bolshevik leader Valerian Kuibyshev, it became a major industrial centre. During World War II, it was even designated the USSR’s “second capital” in case of Moscow’s fall, hosting embassies, the Bolshoi Theatre, and a secret underground Stalin bunker, built 37 metres below ground. Post-war, Kuibyshev flourished with heavy industry, aerospace engineering, and—most importantly for us—watch manufacturing.

In 1991, with the fall of the USSR, the city reverted to its historic name: Samara. Today, it blends centuries of architecture and culture, offering the perfect backdrop for discovering Soviet watch history.

ZIM – Samara’s Watchmaking Legacy

Let’s tick into gear: time to explore ZIM, the watchmaking pride of Samara.

The Maslennikov Factory, better known by its Soviet acronym ZIM (Zavod Imeni Maslennikova), has a story worthy of a Cold War novel. It was founded in 1911 not to make watches, but fuses and artillery shells for the Imperial Russian Army. During WWI, it produced millions of fuses annually, and after the Revolution, it limped on producing domestic goods like irons and cooking mortars.

By the 1930s, as the USSR accelerated industrialisation, the government sought to establish a home-grown watch industry, independent of foreign imports. Samara was chosen as one of the three major Soviet cities to host a watch factory—alongside the First and Second Moscow Watch Factories. From 1935 to 1939, with the help of French engineers from LIP, Samara’s ZIM factory began producing pocket watches, rugged and simple, suited to the needs of Soviet workers and soldiers.

In 1950, the factory shifted gears: it launched serial production of the iconic Pobeda wristwatch (“Victory”), celebrating triumph in WWII. Soon after, watches marked ZIM began rolling off the lines, known for their durability, reliability and affordability. For over 50 years, ZIM produced millions of mechanical watches, many exported across the USSR and allied nations.

At its peak, ZIM employed over 30,000 workers and produced not only watches, but a dizzying array of consumer and military goods—from fishing reels and sewing machines to aeronautical parts and tractor components. It was a true Soviet industrial titan.

The 1990s – Crisis and Creativity

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, ZIM—like many state-owned giants—faced hard times. Monthly production plummeted from 200,000 units to around 30–35,000, and quality began to suffer. Yet, the factory didn’t give up easily.

During the 1990s, ZIM released creative and colourful commemorative models, some made through a German-Russian joint venture called Optim-Maveg, which briefly replaced the ZIM logo with a new stylised signature. These hybrid timepieces, now rare, reflect the factory’s last attempts to stay relevant in a rapidly changing market.

Despite efforts, ZIM stopped producing watches in the early 2000s. However, former technicians and enthusiasts continued assembling pieces from leftover stock for some years. The original factory buildings still stand today—some abandoned, others converted—like the former Building 155, now home to the Zakhar Trade Centre, a post-Soviet shopping mall that carries the memory of industrial greatness.

ZIM Watches – Simplicity, Style and Soviet Identity

ZIM wristwatches weren’t luxury items, nor were they cutting-edge in terms of mechanics. They featured manual wind movements with 15 jewels, mostly based on an old French LIP design. Cases were usually brass with chrome plating, and accuracy was average. But they were affordable, reliable and, above all, widely loved.

What makes ZIM watches special is their incredible variety of dials and cases. Over 20 case styles were used across decades, and hundreds of dial designs were produced—from minimalist Bauhaus-inspired layouts to vibrant red stars, commemorative slogans, and even portraits of local monuments.

Some ZIM watches proudly displayed the Monument of Glory—a towering figure of a worker lifting wings skyward, honouring Samara’s aerospace industry—directly on their dials. Others featured patriotic themes, stylised typography, and playful visual motifs that reflected Soviet aesthetics and optimism. In many ways, each ZIM watch is not just a timekeeper, but a tiny work of ideological art.

What to See in Samara – A Watch Lover’s Guide

If you’re planning a visit to Samara, here’s a curated itinerary with historical landmarks and orological charm:

  • Monument of Glory – This 40-metre tall sculpture near the Volga riverfront celebrates aviation workers. Its figure of a man lifting metallic wings is one of Samara’s most iconic images—and yes, it appeared on several ZIM watch dials!
  • Stalin’s Bunker – A Cold War secret unearthed in 1991. Descend into a fully preserved underground command centre built for Stalin during WWII. It’s eerie, impressive and a unique piece of history you won’t find anywhere else.
  • Kuibyshev Square – One of the largest public squares in Europe, framed by Stalinist architecture and the grand Samara Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre. A great spot for people-watching and historical immersion.
  • Volga Embankment – Samara’s riverfront promenade is among Russia’s longest and most picturesque. Stroll along the water, enjoy cafes, sculptures, and local music. Ideal for reflecting on time—with or without a ZIM on your wrist.
  • Samara Regional History Museum (Alabin Museum) – A must for anyone interested in Samara’s evolution. Exhibits include archaeological finds, Soviet artefacts, and occasionally vintage watches among daily life displays.
  • ZIM Factory Area (Maslennikov Site) – While no longer operational, the area around Maslennikova Street still houses buildings from the original watch factory. Some are decaying; others have been modernised. For collectors, it’s like walking through Soviet industrial nostalgia.
  • Samara Space Museum – Though not watch-related, it reflects the city’s engineering legacy. Stand beneath a real Soyuz rocket, built right here in Samara. Perfect for fans of science, history—and time travel.

What to Eat in Samara – Fuel for Watch Hunting

Exploring Samara is hungry work. Here are some must-try local dishes:

  • Zharkoye – A hearty stew of meat, potatoes, onions and carrots. Comfort food for Soviet souls.
  • Kulebyaka – A layered pie stuffed with salmon, cabbage or mushrooms. Rich and satisfying.
  • Samara Pryaniki – Local gingerbread-style biscuits, sweet and spiced with cinnamon and honey. Ideal with tea.
  • Belyashi – Fried dough parcels filled with spiced minced meat. A perfect street snack.
  • Samara Kvass – A traditional fermented drink made from rye bread. Slightly fizzy, slightly sour, very refreshing in summer.
  • Volga Fish – Samara boasts excellent river fish. Try zander in cream sauce or smoked catfish with herbs.
  • Raki & Zhiguli Beer – Crayfish and local beer, often served riverside, are a Samara summer tradition. Salted fish snacks (taranka) make a bold souvenir.
  • Rossiya Chocolate – Samara is home to one of Russia’s largest chocolate factories. Sample Soviet-era sweets for a nostalgic sugar rush.

So whether you’re drawn by the flowing Volga, Soviet history, or the rhythmic tick of a vintage watch, Samara has something to offer. It’s a city where time moves slowly, but where history is alive in every square, factory and river breeze.

And remember—every time you glance at a ZIM watch dial, somewhere deep inside it still beats the pulse of Samara.

Happy travels—and don’t forget to wind your watch!

Sekonda in the Soviet and Russian Era: A Historical Analysis

russian Sekonda Teacher's desk watch

The Historical Context and the Role of Soviet Watch Factories

The Sekonda brand was launched in 1966 by ChasProm, the Soviet Union’s scientific institute for horology, in collaboration with a British distributor. The initiative aimed to export the best Soviet-made timepieces under a single, easily pronounceable international brand. Sekonda thus became the umbrella brand for a wide range of watches produced by major USSR factories, rebranded for export purposes.

Key contributors included the First Moscow Watch Factory (Poljot), Second Moscow Watch Factory (Slava), Petrodvorets Watch Factory (Raketa), Chistopol Watch Factory (Vostok), Chelyabinsk Watch Factory (Molnija), Minsk Watch Factory (Luch), Penza Watch Factory (Zarja), Uglich Watch Factory (Chaika), Maslennikov Factory (ZIM), and Integral Electronics (Elektronika-5).

All these factories supplied Sekonda with their own models, retaining the signature robustness and quality of Soviet watchmaking. Sekonda’s competitive pricing, mechanical movements with jeweled calibres, and durability made it a strong contender against Swiss brands. By the late 1980s, Sekonda had become the UK’s top-selling watch brand. After the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, the partnership ceased, and by 1993 production shifted to fashion watches made in Hong Kong.


The Soviet Factories Behind Sekonda

Molnija – Chelyabinsk Watch Factory

Founded in 1947 in the Ural region, Molnija specialised in pocket watches from the outset. The factory’s iconic 3602 calibre, derived from a Swiss Cortébert movement, became one of the USSR’s most enduring. Molnija produced watches for specific professions including railway workers, miners, and even Braille models. Sekonda imported many of these vintage-styled pieces to the West.

Vostok – Chistopol Watch Factory

Established during WWII from evacuated sections of the First Moscow Factory, Vostok became a major supplier for the Soviet Defence Ministry by 1965. It produced rugged timepieces like the Komandirskie and Amphibia, the latter offering 200m water resistance. Many export models bore the Latinised “Wostok” name. Through Sekonda, these reliable 17-jewel mechanical watches gained popularity in Western markets.

Poljot – First Moscow Watch Factory

Founded in 1930, Poljot became the USSR’s flagship watchmaker. It famously made the watch worn by Yuri Gagarin in 1961 and was known for its high-end chronographs like the Strela (calibre 3017) and later the 3133 (based on the Valjoux 7734). Sekonda sold premium Poljot models in the West, offering exceptional quality at attractive prices.

Elektronika-5 – Integral Electronics (Minsk)

During the 1970s, Integral spearheaded the Soviet Union’s transition to quartz and digital watches under the Elektronika brand. These included LCD and LED models, some of which were exported as Sekonda watches. Featuring quartz modules developed domestically, these models offered a Soviet alternative in the digital segment.

ZIM – Maslennikov Factory (Samara)

Originally a munitions plant, ZIM shifted to producing reliable, low-cost mechanical watches after WWII, including Pobeda-branded models. The factory also contributed to early Soviet digital watches like the Elektronika B6-02. Sekonda used ZIM to supply affordable yet sturdy export watches, popular for their retro charm.

Luch – Minsk Watch Factory

Founded in the 1950s, Luch specialised in elegant, small-format watches, particularly for women. Its ultra-thin calibre 2209 became a hallmark of Soviet dress watches. Sekonda marketed many Luch models abroad, often as affordable yet refined timepieces with slim profiles and high jewel counts.

Zarja – Penza Watch Factory

This factory focused on women’s watches and contributed significantly to Sekonda’s export catalogue. Notably, it developed miniaturised movements such as those used in the Zarja range. Despite being mass-produced, many of these watches are now valued for their historical context and craftsmanship.

Raketa – Petrodvorets Watch Factory

With roots going back to 1721, Petrodvorets transitioned to watchmaking post-WWII, launching Raketa in 1961 to commemorate Soviet space achievements. Raketa produced everything in-house, including movements, and offered innovative models like the Polar 24-hour watch. Many Raketa models were exported under the Sekonda brand.

Slava – Second Moscow Watch Factory

Slava catered to civilian markets and became known for its dual-barrel 24xx calibres, offering smooth power delivery and extended reserve. Notable was the Slava 828 with built-in alarm, rare for a wristwatch. Sekonda leveraged these innovations for mid-range civilian watches in Western markets.

Chaika – Uglich Watch Factory

Initially a supplier of watch parts, Uglich later focused on miniature women’s watches under the Chaika name, inspired by cosmonaut Valentina Tereshkova’s call sign. Some models reached record miniaturisation, while others included quartz prototypes. Sekonda sold Chaika models primarily as elegant, affordable women’s watches.


Collectors’ Favourites: Soviet-Era Sekonda Watches

  • Sekonda Strela (cal. 3017, 19 jewels): A manually wound chronograph originally reserved for cosmonauts and military pilots. Now considered a prized collector’s item.
  • Sekonda Chronographs (cal. 3133, 23 jewels): Built on Poljot’s improved Valjoux 7734 design, these offer excellent value and Cold War-era heritage.
  • Sekonda Amphibia (cal. Vostok 2416/2415): Soviet dive watches boasting 200m water resistance and celebrated for their engineering.
  • Sekonda Polar (cal. Raketa 2623.H): 24-hour dial watches made for polar expeditions, now sought-after for their unique function and history.
  • Sekonda Molnija Pocket Watches (cal. 3602): Elegant mechanical timepieces featuring robust, vintage Swiss-derived movements and historical engravings.

Conclusion

Sekonda remains a unique chapter in watch history—a brand that bridged East and West. It introduced the world to the diversity and ingenuity of Soviet horology, from utilitarian Pobedas to elite Strela chronographs. Today, vintage Sekonda watches offer collectors a tangible link to a fascinating era of Cold War craftsmanship and innovation.


Sources: Historical and technical information drawn from specialist archives, Soviet watch enthusiast communities, and curated projects like Watches of the USSR, Wikipedia pages on individual factories, and dedicated blogs such as Storie di orologeria meccanica and Dumarko.com.

The Tank on the Vostok Komandirskie Dial: T-34 or Soviet Symbol?

soviet watch Vostok Komandirskie Tank

Among the many military-themed Soviet watches, few are as striking as the 1980s Vostok Komandirskie featuring a tank and red star on its dial. But what exactly is that tank? Is it meant to represent a specific historical vehicle, like the T-34, or is it a symbolic image created to evoke Soviet victory and strength?

Let’s examine the silhouette, turret, gun, hull, and tracks in detail, comparing them with real Soviet tanks from World War II — including the T-34, KV-1, KV-2, IS-1 and IS-2 — to determine whether this is a faithful depiction or a stylised tribute.


General Shape and Proportions: A Medium Tank Profile

The tank shown on the dial has balanced proportions, with a low hull and relatively compact turret. The gun is long and extends well beyond the body — a configuration closely resembling the iconic T-34, the most celebrated Soviet medium tank of the Second World War.

In contrast, heavy tanks like the KV-1 or IS-2 featured bulkier silhouettes, taller and wider hulls, and significantly larger turrets. The depicted tank lacks these heavy features, pointing more convincingly to a medium tank design, possibly a simplified T-34/85.


Turret and Gun: Rounded and Clean

The turret is rounded, almost dome-like, consistent with Soviet cast turret designs introduced from 1942 onwards. It fits the profile of the T-34/85, which had a larger three-man turret with smooth, rounded sides. It may also vaguely resemble later KV-1 models or early IS tanks, but crucially, it doesn’t match the boxy and oversized KV-2 turret.

The gun appears long and straight, with no muzzle brake — a key point. Heavy tanks like the IS-2 typically had visible muzzle brakes on their 122mm guns. The lack of such detail aligns better with the 76mm or 85mm cannons found on the T-34 and KV-1.

Some observers have speculated that a slight bulge mid-barrel may represent a fume extractor, a feature found on postwar tanks like the T-62. If so, it’s likely an artistic liberty, not a historical representation.


Hull and Tracks: Compatible with the T-34

The hull appears flat and low, with simple lines. No hatches or ports are visible — typical of a stylised rendering. The tank’s length and the visible portion of its tracks suggest a five-wheel layout, matching the T-34’s Christie suspension system. By contrast, tanks like the KV-1, IS-2 and KV-2 had six large road wheels per side and longer track profiles.

Although the details are minimal, the design doesn’t contradict T-34 dimensions and supports the idea of a medium tank reference rather than a heavy behemoth.


Stylisation and Soviet Iconography

This is clearly a highly stylised graphic. As a dial decoration, it avoids technical complexity in favour of recognisability. Many finer details — hatches, viewports, co-axial machine guns, muzzle brakes — are absent.

Instead, the watch designers distilled the image into a universal symbol of Soviet strength. In 1980s USSR, the T-34 was already an icon of victory, and it’s no coincidence that many sellers and collectors refer to this dial as a “T-34 variant.”


Conclusion: More Symbol than Specimen

While the tank illustration is not a perfect match to any one real-life model, it shares most of its core traits with the T-34/85: a compact turret, long gun without muzzle brake, and a low, well-proportioned hull.

There are no compelling visual cues pointing toward the KV or IS series. The image is best understood as a symbolic homage to the T-34, fusing familiar visual cues into a bold, clean, instantly recognisable Soviet motif — one that continues to capture collectors’ imagination decades later.

Russian Military Watches: History, Models, and Collecting

Russian Military Watches: History, Models, and Collecting

Russian military watches represent a fascinating chapter in horology, blending technical innovation, functional design, and a deep connection to significant historical events. These timepieces have not only accompanied military personnel and specialists on crucial missions but have also become cult objects for collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.

The Origins of Russian Military Watchmaking

The Russian watch industry has deep roots dating back to the 1930s when the Soviet Union initiated domestic production to reduce reliance on foreign imports. In 1930, the First Moscow Watch Factory began manufacturing timepieces for both civilian and military use. This initiative marked the beginning of a horological tradition that would have a significant impact in the decades to follow.

Iconic Models and Their Historical Role

Sturmanskie Type 1 and Type 2

Sturmanskie watches were developed for Soviet military aviation and issued to pilots upon graduation. The Type 1, produced by the First Moscow Watch Factory in the 1950s, was one of the first timepieces designed for military aviation use. The subsequent Type 2, introduced in the 1960s, featured structural improvements and enhanced accuracy. This model is also believed to have been the watch worn by Yuri Gagarin during his historic space flight in 1961.

soviet watch Sturmanskie Type 1
Sturmanskie Type 1
soviet watch Sturmanskie Type 2
Sturmanskie Type 2

Sturmanskie Chronograph for Pilots

Alongside standard models, the Soviet Union developed a Sturmanskie chronograph, issued to pilots upon obtaining their licence. This watch featured a chronograph function, essential for navigation calculations and precise measurements during flight missions.

sovien chronograph watch Sturmanskie Air Force
Sturmanskie Air Force

Zlatoust 191-ChS: The Deep-Diving Giant

One of the most remarkable Russian military watches is the Zlatoust 191-ChS, an extraordinarily large diving watch designed for Soviet naval divers. With a case diameter of approximately 60mm and a highly legible dial, this model has become legendary for its durability and reliability in extreme conditions.

soviet Zlatoust diver
Zlatoust Diver

Vostok “Ratnik” with Left-Side Crown

The Vostok Ratnik is an automatic watch developed as part of the advanced “Ratnik” military modernisation programme. The Ratnik project (“Ратник” in Russian, meaning “Warrior”) is a modular system introduced to enhance the efficiency and protection of Russian soldiers, incorporating body armour, visors, weapons, and advanced communication devices. Although the Vostok Ratnik was intended to be part of the standard military gear, it was never officially adopted, remaining an interesting piece for collectors.

Featuring a left-side crown, an automatic Vostok 2416 movement, and water resistance up to 200 metres, this model is particularly sought after for its connection to Russia’s military modernisation efforts.

russian watch Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-2
Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-2
russian watch Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-1
Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-1

Zakaz Watches and Voentorg Shops

In addition to officially issued watches, there are Zakaz models, specially ordered by the Ministry of Defence and sold in Voentorg military shops.

Voentorg (Военторг, an abbreviation of “Военная торговля,” meaning “Military Trade”) were exclusive stores reserved for Soviet military personnel, accessible only with a special permit. These shops sold uniforms, tactical equipment, field tools, and, of course, watches commissioned specifically for the Ministry of Defence.

Zakaz watches sold in Voentorg shops often featured special engravings, military unit insignia, and more advanced specifications compared to their civilian counterparts. Since they were available only to authorised personnel and not the general public, these timepieces are now particularly rare and highly valued by collectors.

Watches of the Red Army

Although many Soviet watches were not officially military-issued, some models were heavily inspired by the Red Army aesthetic. Among the most notable are the Vostok Komandirskie and Amphibia, originally produced for military personnel but later made available to the public. Featuring dials with military symbols and robust construction, these models remain highly appreciated among collectors.

soviet watch Vostok Komandirskie Tank
Vostok Komandirskie Tank
soviet watch Vostok Komandirskie
Vostok Komandirskie

Where to Find Russian Military Watches

Those interested in Russian military watches can explore specialist websites and platforms dedicated to horology. russianwatches.it is a great resource: while it is an e-commerce site, military or military-style watches occasionally become available, making it worth checking for potential acquisitions.

Conclusion

Russian military watches are a combination of history, engineering, and design. Whether you are an experienced collector or a newcomer, exploring this sector of horology offers the opportunity to own not just a timepiece but a piece of history rich in meaning and fascination.

Soviet CCCP Watch: The History of SOVIET Watches from the ’90s

Soviet CCCCP watch

In the 1990s, the Soviet CCCP watch gained significant popularity, especially in Italy, due to its unique design and nostalgic connection to the Soviet era. These watches, although not directly produced in the USSR, utilised high-quality Russian movements and featured an aesthetic that strongly evoked the Soviet period.

Soviet CCCCP watch
Soviet CCCCP

Production and Movements of the Soviet CCCP Watch

SOVIET watches were known for using a variety of mechanical and quartz movements produced by major Soviet factories. Among these, the Vostok 2414 and 2409 movements were particularly appreciated for their robustness and reliability. Additionally, Poljot calibres and Soviet quartz movements were also used. It is likely that the producers of the watch managed to purchase batches of movements from struggling ex-Soviet factories, ensuring high build quality​

Some SOVIET watches also mimicked the crown closure design of Zlatoust watches, characterised by a screw-down cap that protected the actual crown. This design not only added a distinctive element but also increased crown protection, making the watch more resistant to external elements​

Design and Features of the Soviet CCCP Watch

The design of the watch was heavily influenced by Soviet symbols and aesthetics. Many of these watches featured a red star on the dial, accompanied by the inscription “CCCP,” which stands for “Union of Soviet Socialist Republics” in Cyrillic. These design elements not only evoked the collective imagery of the era but also offered a sense of authenticity and nostalgia for the wearer. Each watch was a tribute to the glorious past of the Soviet Union​

Distribution and Popularity of the Soviet CCCP Watch in Italy

During the 1990s, the watch was particularly popular in Italy. It was imported and distributed through specialised watch shops and vintage item retailers. Its popularity was due to the combination of a distinctive design and an affordable price, making it attractive to both collectors and vintage watch enthusiasts. Additionally, the allure of Soviet design, combined with the quality of the mechanical movements, made these watches particularly desirable​

Production Hypotheses of the Soviet CCCP Watch

Despite the lack of detailed official documentation, there are several hypotheses about the production of the Soviet CCCP watch:

  • External Assembly: It is possible that the Russian movements and components were assembled in facilities outside Russia, leveraging available resources and infrastructure in other countries to reduce costs and circumvent the economic difficulties of the post-Soviet period.
  • Foreign Market: Another hypothesis is that the SOVIET brand was created specifically for foreign markets, such as Italy, exploiting the appeal of Soviet design to attract collectors and nostalgics without having to compete directly with established Russian watch brands​

Conclusion on the Soviet CCCP Watch

The Soviet CCCP watch represents a fascinating chapter in the history of 1990s horology. With its Soviet-era inspired design and use of high-quality movements, this watch continues to be appreciated by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide. Although its production has ended, its charm persists, offering a piece of history and nostalgia to anyone who wears it.

For more information on the Soviet CCCP watch and other vintage Russian watches, we recommend exploring collector forums and historical archives online.


Sources:


History of Slava: The Second Moscow Watch Factory

History of Slava: The Second Moscow Watch Factory

The history of Slava, one of the most iconic brands in Russian watchmaking, begins with the foundation of the Second Moscow Watch Factory. This article explores the origins, development, challenges, and evolutions of this historic factory up to its current state.

Origins of the Second Moscow Watch Factory

Founded in 1924, the Second Moscow Watch Factory was one of the first non-military watch manufacturers in the Soviet Union. In 1929, the Soviet Union acquired two American watch factories, the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company and the Ansonia Clock Company, to start its own watchmaking industry​ (Wixsite)​​ (Wixsite)​. Official watch production began in 1931, using the equipment purchased from the Ansonia Clock Company.

During World War II, the factory was evacuated to Chistopol and focused on producing military equipment. After the war, the factory returned to Moscow and resumed civilian watch production​ (Two Broke Watch Snobs)​​ (Wikipedia)​.

The Birth of the Slava Brand

In the 1950s, the factory began producing watches under the brand name “Slava,” which means “glory” in Russian. This brand was distinguished for producing watches exclusively for civilian consumption, without military or aerospace pretensions​ (Wixsite)​​ (Wikipedia)​.

Innovations and Awards

The Slava factory was innovative from its early years. In the 1960s, it introduced the “Slava Transistor,” a watch with an electronic movement that won a gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1964​ (DuMarko)​​ (Слава – Русские часы)​. Other significant awards include the gold medal at the Brno International Fair in 1974 and another gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1975 for models with a 24mm caliber​ (Слава – Русские часы)​.

Expansion and Collaborations

From 1955 to 1979, Slava exported up to 50% of its production to over 72 countries. It collaborated with other Soviet manufacturers like Raketa and Vostok to develop advanced movements​ (DuMarko)​​ (Слава – Русские часы)​.

Challenges of Privatization

After the fall of the USSR, the Slava factory faced numerous difficulties. During the privatization of the 1990s, many movements were exported to China and Hong Kong to produce cheap counterfeits, damaging the brand’s reputation​ (Wikipedia)​​ (Слава – Русские часы)​.

Revival and Current Situation

In 2005, the factory and the Slava brand were acquired by Globex Bank and later transferred to the city of Moscow. The production facilities near Belorusskaya metro station were demolished in 2008 to make way for a shopping center, while wristwatch production was maintained and integrated into the Slava Technopark​ (Wikipedia)​​ (Слава – Русские часы)​.

Since 2016, Slava has been using movements produced by the Chistopol Watch Factory “Vostok” for its new models​ (Слава – Русские часы)​. Today, production continues with new models inspired by historic designs, such as “Slava Televisor,” “Era,” “Mir,” “Sadko,” “Ais,” and “Doctor,” using the original Slava 2427 movements​ (Слава – Русские часы)​.

Anecdotes and Trivia

An interesting fact is about the “Slava Transistor” model, which won a gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1964. This watch used an electronic movement that was innovative for its time, showcasing the factory’s technological advancement​ (DuMarko)​.

Another anecdote involves Slava’s appearance in the 2016 Bulgarian film “Glory” (original title “Slava”), where the protagonist’s Slava watch plays a key role in the plot​ (Wikipedia)​.

Conclusion

The history of Slava is a journey through the evolution of Russian watchmaking, from its roots in the Second Moscow Watch Factory to its current production of innovative models. Despite the challenges of privatization and counterfeiting, Slava continues to represent excellence in watchmaking.

For more information and updates on new Slava models, visit the official Slava website.


Sources:

  1. Second Watch Factory
  2. Slava Watches
  3. DuMarko
  4. Russian Watches Info
  5. Wikipedia

Slava California Watch: An Iconic Timepiece of History and Innovation

russian watch Slava California

Slava watches are renowned for their quality and reliability, and the Slava California watch is no exception. Produced by the Second Moscow Watch Factory, this watch stands out not only for its unique design but also for its historical and technical significance. In this article, we will explore the features of the Slava California watch, the Slava 2428 caliber, and the fascinating stories behind the famous “California” dial used by Rolex and Panerai.

Description of the Slava California Watch

russian watch Slava California
Slava California

Design and Case

The Slava California watch is easily recognizable by its distinctive dial, featuring a combination of Roman numerals on the upper half and Arabic numerals on the lower half. This unique design is complemented by:

  • Chrome-Plated Brass Case: The brass case with chrome plating gives the watch an elegant appearance, though it is less resistant to everyday wear. Over time, the chrome can deteriorate with daily use and contact with sweat.
  • Black Dial: The black background of the dial provides perfect contrast with the pink hour markers outlined in gray, enhancing readability.
  • Minute Markers: Gray, aligned along the railroad track surrounding the dial.
  • Polished Metal Hands: The hands, without luminous material, feature a hollow interior, while the second hand is distinguished by a red “lollipop.”
  • Date Display at 6 o’clock: The date display at 6 o’clock allows for vertical reading of the date and day, a practical and distinctive feature.

Technical Details of the Slava 2428 Caliber

The heart of the Slava California watch is the Slava 2428 caliber, a manual winding mechanical movement known for its reliability. Here are the technical specifications:

  • Dimensions: 13 lines (32.2 mm diameter).
  • Height: 4.85 mm.
  • Power Reserve: 47 hours.
  • Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph).
  • Jewels: 17.
  • Complications:
    • Sweeping Seconds.
    • Day and Date.
  • Regulator Type: Pinned regulator (or index regulator).
  • Escapement Type: Swiss lever escapement.
  • Winding and Setting: Stem winding, stem setting.

The Story of the California Dial: Rolex and Panerai

The “California” dial has a fascinating history involving some of the most prestigious watch brands.

Origins of the California Dial

The term “California dial” originated in the 1980s when dial refinishing shops in Los Angeles, particularly on Melrose Avenue, began using the half Roman, half Arabic design to refinish vintage watch dials. This style quickly became popular among collectors of Rolex “Bubbleback” watches​ (Welcome to RolexMagazine.com)​​ (Fratello Watches)​.

Rolex and Panerai

Rolex was one of the first to use the California dial in the 1930s and 1940s, particularly in models designed for Panerai, which supplied watches to the Italian Navy. These watches were known for their readability and robustness, essential features for underwater missions​ (Watch Swiss)​.

The Rolex California

The California dial of Rolex has become an icon among collectors. Initially used to improve readability in difficult conditions, it was later adopted by various vintage models. Today, the California dial is highly sought after and represents a piece of watchmaking history.

Beware of Counterfeits

Unfortunately, with the growing popularity of the Slava California watch, unscrupulous sellers have emerged, counterfeiting California dials for these watches. Fake dials can be found on various marketplaces, so it is important to be cautious and verify authenticity before making a purchase.

The Value of the Slava California Watch Among Collectors

The Slava California watch has become highly sought after among collectors. The combination of unique design, fascinating history, and technical reliability has increased its market value. Currently, a Slava California in excellent condition can fetch between 300 and 350 euros.

Conclusion

The Slava California watch is more than just a timepiece; it is a piece of watchmaking history. With its distinctive design and robust Slava 2428 caliber, it continues to captivate collectors worldwide. Whether you are a vintage watch enthusiast or a collector seeking unique pieces, the Slava California is an excellent choice.

SLAVA M.R.N.D. SUGIRA MU RWANDA: A Propaganda Watch and Its History

russian watch Slava M.R.N.D. RWANDA

Introduction

The SLAVA watch with the inscription “M.R.N.D. SUGIRA MU RWANDA” is a historical artifact that offers a glimpse into political propaganda in Rwanda before the 1994 genocide. This article explores the details of this watch, the meaning of its inscriptions and flags, and the historical context in which it was used.

Description of the Watch

The watch features a dial with two colorful flags and the inscription “M.R.N.D. SUGIRA MU RWANDA.” It is powered by a Soviet-made Slava 2356 quartz movement, known for its affordability and reliability. The “Made in USSR” mark indicates that the watch was produced before the end of 1991, the year the Soviet Union dissolved.

russian watch Slava M.R.N.D. RWANDA
Slava M.R.N.D. RWANDA

The Flags

  1. Left Flag (with the letter “R”):
    • Colors: Red, yellow, and green.
    • Symbol: The letter “R” in yellow.
    • Meaning: This flag was the national flag of Rwanda used from 1962 to 2001. These colors are common in Pan-African movements and symbolize national identity and Hutu nationalism. The “R” stands for “Rwanda”​ (Wikiwand)​.
  2. Right Flag (MRND):
    • Colors: Red, black, and green.
    • Symbol: A sickle with a long handle and a hoe.
    • Meaning: This flag represents the MRND party (Mouvement Révolutionnaire National pour le Développement). The agricultural tools symbolize labor and are consistent with the party’s focus on agricultural and national development​ (Wikiwand)​​ (Wikiwand)​.

The Inscription “M.R.N.D. SUGIRA MU RWANDA”

The inscription on the dial, “M.R.N.D. SUGIRA MU RWANDA,” is in Kinyarwanda. Here is a detailed explanation:

  • M.R.N.D: Abbreviation for “Mouvement Révolutionnaire National pour le Développement”.
  • SUGIRA: In Kinyarwanda, it means “prosper” or “flourish”.
  • MU RWANDA: Means “in Rwanda”.

The complete phrase can be translated as “The MRND prospers in Rwanda.” This slogan represents the party’s propaganda, emphasizing its dominance and influence in the country.

Propaganda Use of the Watch

The watch served as a propaganda tool for the MRND. Distributed to supporters and party members, it symbolized the MRND’s authority and pervasive presence in the daily lives of Rwandans. The “Made in USSR” mark suggests that the watch was produced before the end of 1991, probably because the Soviet Union was one of the few countries capable of mass-producing affordable watches at that time​ (NSUWorks)​​ (Human Rights Watch)​.

The 1994 Genocide: A Detached Overview

The Rwandan genocide of 1994 was one of the most tragic events in recent history. In about 100 days, from April to July 1994, between 500,000 and 1,000,000 people were massacred, predominantly Tutsis, but also moderate Hutus.

Causes and Context

Ethnic tensions between Hutus and Tutsis had been present for decades, exacerbated by Belgian colonial policies. After independence in 1962, these tensions intensified, culminating in the assassination of Hutu President Juvénal Habyarimana on April 6, 1994, which triggered the genocidal violence​ (Wikis at NYU)​.

Course of the Genocide

Immediately after Habyarimana’s assassination, Hutu militias, including the Interahamwe, began systematically killing Tutsis and moderate Hutus. The violence quickly spread from Kigali to the rest of the country, with atrocities committed in schools, churches, and private homes​ (Human Rights Watch)​​ (Wikis at NYU)​.

International Response

The international community was criticized for its inaction. UN peacekeeping forces were reduced after the killing of 10 Belgian soldiers, leaving the field open to the genocidaires. It was not until mid-May 1994 that the UN authorized the deployment of additional troops, but it was too late​ (Human Rights Watch)​​ (Wikis at NYU)​.

Aftermath and Recovery

The genocide ended with the victory of the Tutsi-led Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF). The new government promoted reconciliation and adopted a new constitution that eliminated ethnic references, striving to rebuild a devastated country​ (Wikis at NYU)​.

Conclusion

The MRND watch, with its flags and slogans, represents a tangible symbol of a dark period in Rwanda’s history. It serves as a reminder of the propaganda used by the MRND to consolidate its power and the horrific genocide that followed. As Rwanda continues to heal and rebuild, these objects remind us of the importance of vigilance against ethnic hatred and violence.

Sources


Discovering the Charm of Soviet and Russian Watch Collections

Ritaglio schermata pagina Lancette Sovietiche Collezionare Sovietaly intervista

It may seem unusual, but sometimes a collection of Soviet/Russian watches can capture the attention and appreciation of even those who are not experts in the field. This intriguing niche of collecting has recently been highlighted in an interview published by the magazine “Collezionare,” available in both print and digital formats (www.collezionare.com).

The Magazine “Collezionare”

The magazine “Collezionare” is a specialized publication focused on the world of collecting, offering in-depth articles, news, and interviews on a wide range of collectible items. From vintage to antiques and modern collectibles, the magazine serves as an authoritative and up-to-date resource for enthusiasts. Available in both print and online versions, “Collezionare” stands out for the quality of its content and the passion with which it tells the stories of collectors and their unique collections.

Two years ago, I contacted several journals related to collecting to promote my father’s Pirelli advertisement collection, including “Collezionare”. The interview with my father can be found at this link. Given the existing contact, a couple of months ago I reached out again to the journalist who conducted the interview, suggesting she might also be interested in my collection of Soviet/Russian watches. A few days later, she contacted me to schedule a phone interview.

Ritaglio schermata pagina Lancette Sovietiche Collezionare Sovietaly intervista
Lancette Sovietiche collezionare online

On April 14, 2018, the online version of the interview was published and can be read at this link.

Soviet Watches

In the interview, Andrea Manini, a 44-year-old from Milan who has been collecting since 1992, shares insights into his collection of over 400 Russian watches. “What I really enjoy is that, unlike Swiss watches, Russian ones always have a story to tell.”

The Stories Behind Soviet Watches

Many stories surround Soviet watchmaking, particularly those involving Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. The watch he wore during the 1961 mission is still a mystery. Some claim it was a Poljot Sturmanskie, produced by the First Moscow Watch Factory, often referred to as the Russian equivalent of the Speedmaster used by Armstrong and Aldrin on the moon. Others believe it was the Type One by Sturmanskie, citing a photo where Gagarin wears this model over his red suit. “But who can say for sure? Maybe it was just a training shot,” says Andrea, emphasizing the mystery that often surrounds these famous timepieces.

The Influence of History on Soviet Watchmaking

The end of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s marked the beginning of a new era for Russian watchmaking in Italy. Andrea, like many other enthusiasts, started his collection in 1992, the year after the USSR’s dissolution. “1992 is my year zero, the year I began to appreciate these beautiful watches. That year, the first after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, all the unique goods from the former USSR became very sought after, including Russian watches, which started appearing in our jewelry stores. Over the years, I have expanded my collection to about 400 pieces.”

Early Discoveries

Andrea’s first purchase was a Vostok Komandirskie wristwatch. “The military look and the rocket on the dial attracted me, and only later did I discover that it was a Vostok Komandirskie model, with the Vostok 1 rocket that Gagarin used to orbit the Earth in 1961.”

Collection Categories

Russian watches are categorized in various ways. Andrea focuses on Russian space adventures and Soviet watches made for the Italian market. Other themes include Soviet polar explorations and Russian railways, particularly the BAM line.

The History of Russian Watchmaking

Russian watchmaking has a complex history intertwined with the country’s social, political, and military developments. During the Tsarist era, watches were mainly produced by artisanal workshops. With the advent of the Soviet Union, watch production became essential for both civilians and the military. Initially, pocket watches were produced, but gradually, wristwatches became the focus.

Watch Factories

Numerous companies arose in the Soviet Union, named after war or space adventures. “The First Moscow Watch Factory, later named Poljot (which means flight), Raketa (rocket), Pobeda (victory, dedicated to WWII), and Chaika (seagull, which was Valentina Tereshkova’s code name during her space flight).”

Export and Marketing

In the 1960s and 70s, Soviet watches were exported at low prices to promote sales. This was a state-imposed strategy. In Italy, Russian watchmaking has often been underrated due to its proximity to Switzerland. However, the Russians understood the importance of marketing and created watches with logos for export or specific models for certain markets.

Rare Models

Among the rarest models in Andrea’s collection is a Raketa Big Zero with a nephrite dial, a green stone similar to jade. Finding rare models is challenging, especially online where many fakes and assembled pieces are sold.

Tips for Collectors

To avoid buying fakes, Andrea advises consulting more experienced and reliable collectors. “Today, there are many forums and groups where you can exchange opinions and advice.”

This collection of Soviet/Russian watches, with its rich history and intriguing models, continues to captivate not only enthusiasts but also newcomers to the world of collecting.

Vostok Cosmonaut: The Watch of the Soviet Space Era

soviet watch Vostok Generalskie Cosmonaut

The Vostok Cosmonaut, also improperly known as the Vostok Astronaut, is a highly sought-after Soviet watch among collectors worldwide. Its charm lies in the dial that depicts the profile of a cosmonaut inside a space suit helmet. But who is actually depicted? Let’s explore the various theories and the different versions of this iconic watch.

Versions of the Vostok Cosmonaut

There are primarily three variants of the Vostok Cosmonaut watch: two from the Soviet era and one from the post-Soviet transitional period. Additionally, there are different types of cases and bezels that add to the variety of this model.

Soviet Era Versions
  1. Black Dial The black dial version is usually housed in a chromed Generalskie 091xxx case, with the Vostok automatic caliber 2416b. Produced in the 1980s, it was mainly destined for the Italian and German markets. This model is easily recognizable by its typical unidirectional bezel with small dots.
  2. Blue Dial The blue dial version, much rarer, is set in a Neptune case and features a Vostok automatic caliber. Despite the color differences, the dial design remains substantially identical to the black version.
Transitional Period Version

There is also a post-Soviet version of the Vostok Cosmonaut. This variant, often marketed as Amphibia, follows the success of the Soviet versions with a very similar dial. The main differences lie in the case and bezel, as seen in the following images.

russian watch Vostok Amphibia Valentina Tereskova
Vostok Amphibia Valentina Tereskova
https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/cosmonaut-vostok.628747/

The Dial of the Vostok Cosmonaut

The most distinctive part of the watch is undoubtedly the dial, which depicts the profile of a cosmonaut with a helmet against a backdrop evoking deep space. The Soviet and transitional versions are very similar but present some differences in graphic details.

At first glance, it’s not easy to notice the differences between the two versions. However, by carefully comparing the reflections on the helmet and visor, distinctive details can be identified. Just take the position of the “P” on the helmet as a reference.

Confronto tra i quadranti del Vostok Astronaut

Who is Depicted?

There are three main theories regarding the identity of the cosmonaut depicted:

  1. Yuri Gagarin The most common theory is that the cosmonaut is Yuri Gagarin, the first man to travel into space. The delicate features of the depicted face resemble those of Gagarin, as seen in historical photos​ (Astronomy Scope)​​ (Night Sky Pix)​.
  2. Anna Lee Fisher Some suggest that the image might be inspired by American astronaut Anna Lee Fisher. Although it’s unlikely for an American astronaut to be depicted on a Soviet watch, the resemblance to some photographs of Fisher is striking​ (Difference Wiki)​.
  3. Valentina Tereshkova The most fascinating and perhaps most probable theory is that the face depicted is that of Valentina Tereshkova, the first woman to travel into space. Her historic mission aboard Vostok 6 in 1963 makes her an icon of the Soviet space era​ (Astronomy Scope)​​ (WorldAtlas)​.

Does the Vostok Cosmonaut Have Clones?

There is a similar, though less prestigious, version of the Vostok watch. It is a Slava model with manual winding and caliber 2428. The light gray/white dial features the profile drawing of the cosmonaut but with less definition compared to the original Vostok. Curiously, the bottom of the dial bears the name Yuri Gagarin in Cyrillic (Ю. А. ГАГАРИН), which might support the theory that the cosmonaut depicted is Gagarin.

russian watch Slava Gagarin
Slava Gagarin

Conclusions

The Vostok Cosmonaut, with its various versions, is a milestone in any collection dedicated to the space era and Soviet watches. The simplicity of the design and the cleanliness of the dial make it one of the best Soviet watches of the 1980s. Regarding who is depicted on the dial, the mystery adds an additional layer of charm. Whether it is Gagarin, Tereshkova, or a generic cosmonaut, the Vostok Cosmonaut continues to celebrate those brave men and women who paved the way for space exploration.

Difference Between Cosmonaut and Astronaut

The term “cosmonaut” is used to refer to space travelers trained by the Russian or Soviet space agency, while “astronaut” is used for those trained by U.S., European, Canadian, or Japanese space agencies​ (StarLust)​​ (Astronomy Scope)​​ (Night Sky Pix)​. The distinction originated during the Cold War and reflects the independence and competition between the U.S. and Soviet space programs.

  • Cosmonaut: Derived from the Greek words “kosmos” (universe) and “nautes” (sailor), meaning “sailor of the universe.”
  • Astronaut: Derived from the Greek words “astron” (star) and “nautes” (sailor), meaning “sailor of the stars.”

Fun Facts About Anna Lee Fisher

Anna Lee Fisher was the first mother to fly into space and worked as a chemist and astronaut for NASA. She was married to William Frederick Fisher, also an astronaut, and together they represented one of the few married couples to have both flown into space​ (Difference Wiki)​.

Insights on Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova

  • Yuri Gagarin: The first man in space, on April 12, 1961, completing an orbit of the Earth with the Vostok 1 mission. His achievement represents a milestone in the history of space exploration​ (WorldAtlas)​​ (Night Sky Pix)​.
  • Valentina Tereshkova: The first woman in space, flew on June 16, 1963, aboard Vostok 6. Her mission lasted almost three days and marked a significant advancement in the inclusion of women in the space program​ (WorldAtlas)​​ (Night Sky Pix)​.

For further insights, here are some useful links:

  1. Forum Orologiko
  2. Watchuseek – Discussion on Vostok Cosmonaut
  3. Article on Valentina Tereshkova
  4. Biography of Yuri Gagarin
  5. History of Vostok Watches
  6. Technical Details on Soviet Watches
  7. Soviet Space Adventures