Dmitry Brodnikovskiy – The Unique Rare Raketa-Big Zero Jade Stone Watches from the USSR

Raketa Big Zero quadrante in pietra
Дмитрий Бродниковский-уникальные каменные часы Ракета-Big Zero Зеро из нефрита СССР ПЧЗ

In the video titled “Дмитрий Бродниковский-уникальные каменные часы Ракета-Big Zero Зеро из нефрита СССР ПЧЗ” (translation: “Dmitry Brodnikovskiy – Unique Rare Raketa-Big Zero Zero Jade Stone Watches USSR PChZ”), Dmitry Brodnikovskiy guides us through the discovery of a particularly rare watch: the Raketa Big Zero with jade dials, produced in the late 1980s.

Key Features

Dial: Made of natural jade with a thickness of 0.5 mm, each dial boasts a unique and unrepeatable texture. Available colors include yellow and classic chrome.

Case: Brass with chrome plating for classic models or titanium nitride for yellow ones, with a diameter of 38 mm, typical for the Big Zero series.

Movement: Raketa caliber 2609, featuring a high triple minute and a high hour wheel to accommodate the thickness of the dial.

Hands: Nickel-plated for chrome models and identical to those of the classic Zero model with a white dial for yellow ones.

Limited Edition: These watches were produced in limited quantities, not available for general sale, and were made to order, mainly for the Italian market.

Variants: In addition to jade dials, the Big Zero model was produced with perestroika-themed dials and with the quality mark.

Details on Titanium Nitride Case Models

Models with titanium nitride cases stand out for some peculiar features:

  • Dial: Yellow with black numbers, indexes, scale, and hands.
  • Hands: Identical to those of the classic Zero model with a white dial.

Raketa Watch Factory

Located in the city of Petrodvorets near St. Petersburg, the Raketa watch factory has written an important page in Soviet watchmaking history. Initially a supplier for the army, Raketa soon distinguished itself for its ability to combine tradition and innovation, creating not only functional timepieces but also design masterpieces. Among its most iconic creations are watches with stone dials, authentic handcrafted jewels that represent an invaluable cultural heritage.

A Laboratory of Experimentation and Beauty

The genesis of Raketa’s stone dials dates back to the first workshop of the Petrodvorets watch factory. Here, skilled craftsmen engaged in meticulous research for alternative materials for watch dials, experimenting with various natural stones. The goal was to create timepieces that were not only durable and functional but also aesthetically unique and capable of telling the story and beauty of the earth.

Unparalleled Aesthetics: The Charm of Stone

Among Raketa’s stone dial models, one in particular captures attention for its extraordinary beauty. The presenter of the video describes it as the most beautiful in the collection, enchanted by the saturation of colors and the unique and unrepeatable texture of the stone. Each dial, in fact, represents a unique piece, the result of meticulous craftsmanship and the unpredictability of nature itself. The stone, with its veins and inclusions, becomes the absolute protagonist, giving the watch an unmistakable identity and timeless charm.

A Heritage of Tradition and Reliability

In addition to their unparalleled aesthetic value, Raketa stone dial watches also boast solid and reliable construction. All models in the collection feature organic glass, chrome cases, stainless steel case backs, and the robust Raketa caliber 2609 mechanical movement. These elements ensure not only refined aesthetics but also longevity, making them precious objects to be carefully preserved even today.

A Piece of History to Be Passed Down

Today, Raketa stone dial watches are considered rare collectible items, sought after by enthusiasts and lovers of Soviet craftsmanship. They represent a tangible testimony of an era when ingenuity and creativity came together to create objects that were not only functional but also true works of art. Their timeless beauty and fascinating history make them true treasures to be passed down from generation to generation.

A Legacy That Lives On Today

Raketa’s legacy lives on today in the spirit of innovation and research that animates the brand. It continues to produce high-quality watches, appreciated for their unique design and high performance. However, stone dial watches remain a standalone chapter in the factory’s history, an indelible symbol of the ingenuity and craftsmanship that have made Raketa a legendary name in the world of watchmaking.

Translation and Analysis of the Soviet Watch Passport

Fronte del passaporto di un orologio sovietico Vostok Amphibia con movimento 2409A.

Introduzione

In the vast world of Soviet watches, each model possesses its own “passport,” a fundamental document that accompanies the watch and provides technical details, usage instructions, and warranty information. However, there are different models of passports depending on the brand and model of the watch. In this article, we will analyze the various parts of the passports of some iconic models such as the Vostok Amphibia, Molnija, and Zaria, providing transcriptions and translations to facilitate understanding.

Each passport is composed of two sides, each of which is divided into 4 or 5 sections. We will proceed with a detailed analysis of each side, illustrating the main parts, providing Cyrillic transcriptions and corresponding English translations. At the end of the transcription and translation of both sides, I will provide a discursive explanation of the content and use of the passport. Additionally, some codes and technical details will be linked to other articles on my blog for further insights.


Vostok Amphibia – 2409A

Fronte

Top Left Section

Transcription:
Чистопольский часовой завод
422950, ТССР г. Чистополь, ул. Энгельса, 127.

ТАЛОН № 1
на гарантийный ремонт часов наручных механических
«ВОСТОК-АМФИБИЯ» 2409А
в течение гарантийного срока

Проданы магазином (наименование торг.) _________
Штамп магазина ________________ 19___г.

Выполненные работы по устранению недостатков:
(подпись) ____________ (дата) _______________

Владелец _______________ (подпись) _______________

Утверждаю:
Зав. ателье ___________ (подпись) ____________

Штамп (наимен. бытового пред.) _______________
Дата _______________ 19___г. (подпись) ____________

Translation:
Chistopol Watch Factory
422950, TSSR, Chistopol, Engels Street, 127.

COUPON № 1
for warranty repair of mechanical wristwatches
«VOSTOK-AMPHIBIA» 2409A
during the warranty period

Sold by store (trade name) _________
Store stamp ________________ 19___year

Work performed to correct deficiencies:
(signature) ____________ (date) _______________

Owner _______________ (signature) _______________

Approved by:
Head of workshop ___________ (signature) ____________

Stamp (name of household appliance) _______________
Date _______________ 19___year (signature) ____________

Top Center Section

Transcription:
Чистопольский часовой завод «ВОСТОК»
ПАСПОРТ
на часы наручные механические «ВОСТОК-АМФИБИЯ» 2409А
ТУ 25.07.1347-77

Дата продажи
Штамп магазина

КОМПЛЕКТ ПОСТАВКИ
Часы – 1 шт.
Паспорт – 1 экз.
Индивидуальная упаковка – 1 шт.

СВИДЕТЕЛЬСТВО О ПРИЕМКЕ
Часы наручные механические «Восток-Амфибия» соотвествуют требованиям ТУ 25-07.1347-77 и признаны годными для эксплуатации.

Translation:
Chistopol Watch Factory «VOSTOK»
PASSPORT
for mechanical wristwatches «VOSTOK-AMPHIBIA» 2409A
TU 25.07.1347-77

Date of sale
Store stamp

DELIVERY SET
Watch – 1 piece
Passport – 1 copy
Individual packaging – 1 piece

CERTIFICATE OF ACCEPTANCE
The mechanical wristwatch «Vostok-Amphibia» meets the requirements of TU 25-07.1347-77 and is deemed suitable for use.

Technical Data and Instructions

Transcription:
ТЕХНИЧЕСКИЕ ДАННЫЕ
Класс точности – 1.
Средний суточный ход часов при температуре (20±5)°С в пределах от минус 20 до плюс 40 с/сут.
Число функциональных камней – 17.
Продолжительность действия часов от одной полной заводки пружины не менее 40 час.
Максимальная глубина погружения часов в воду не более 200 м.
Средний полный срок службы часов – 10 лет.
Часы “Восток-Амфибия” с централизованной секундной стрелкой.
Часы в водопроницаемом корпусе из нержавеющей стали, подверженные магнитным полям напряженностью 480±60 А/м.

ИНСТРУКЦИИ ПО ЭКСПЛУАТАЦИИ
Перед эксплуатацией часов, внимательно прочтите инструкцию. Часы предназначены для эксплуатации в пресной и соленой воде, в общем и грязной воде.
Для завода часов, отвинтите заводную головку и немного вытяните ее в сторону направления стрелки.
Для перевода стрелок, вытяните заводную головку в сторону и поверните ее в направлении стрелок до необходимого времени. Поверните заводную головку в исходное положение и полностью заверните.
Для завода часов, поверните заводную головку в обратном направлении до упора. Сверните заводную головку до конца.

Обращайте внимание, что вокруг заводной головки всегда есть кольцо воды.

Translation:
TECHNICAL DATA
Accuracy class – 1.
The average daily variation of the watch at a temperature of (20±5)°C ranges from -20 to +40 sec/day.
Number of functional rubies – 17.
Duration of operation of the watch with one full wind of the spring is at least 40 hours.
Maximum diving depth of the watch is no more than 200 m.
Average total service life of the watch is 10 years.
“Vostok-Amphibia” watches with a centralized second hand.
Watches in a waterproof case made of stainless steel, resistant to magnetic fields with an intensity of 480±60 A/m.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
Before using the watch, carefully read the instructions. The watch is designed for use in fresh and salt water, in general and dirty water.
To wind the watch, unscrew the crown and pull it slightly in the direction of the arrow.
To set the hands, pull the crown out and turn it in the direction of the hands until the desired time. Return the crown to its original position and tighten it completely.
To wind the watch, turn the crown in the opposite direction until it stops. Screw the crown completely.

Note that there is always a ring of water around the crown.

Top Right Section

Transcription:
Чистопольский часовой завод
422950, ТССР г. Чистополь, ул. Энгельса, 127.

ТАЛОН № 2
на гарантийный ремонт часов наручных механических
«ВОСТОК-АМФИБИЯ» 2409А
в течение гарантийного срока

Проданы магазином (наименование торг.) _________
Штамп магазина ________________ 19___г.

Выполненные работы по устранению недостатков:
(подпись) ____________ (дата) _______________

Владелец _______________ (подпись) _______________

Утверждаю:
Зав. ателье ___________ (подпись) ____________

Штамп (наимен. бытового пред.) _______________
Дата _______________ 19___г. (подпись) ____________

Translation:
Chistopol Watch Factory
422950, TSSR, Chistopol, Engels Street, 127.

COUPON № 2
for warranty repair of mechanical wristwatches
«VOSTOK-AMPHIBIA» 2409A
during the warranty period

Sold by store (trade name) _________
Store stamp ________________ 19___year

Work performed to correct deficiencies:
(signature) ____________ (date) _______________

Owner _______________ (signature) _______________

Approved by:
Head of workshop ___________ (signature) ____________

Stamp (name of household appliance) _______________
Date _______________ 19___year (signature) ____________

Bottom Section

Transcription:
Шифр внешнего оформления
Номер участка (бригад)
Дата выпуска
Шифр внешнего оформления
Номер участка (бригад)
Номер часов
Дата выпуска
Покрытие корпуса
золота серебра – Содержание драгоценных метал., г.
Свободная розничная цена
Артикул
КОД ОКД
Шифр внешнего оформления
Номер участка (бригад)
Дата выпуска

Translation:
External finish code
Site number (brigade)
Release date
External finish code
Site number (brigade)
Watch number
Release date
Case coating
gold silver – Precious metal content, g.
Retail price
Article
OKD code
External finish code
Site number (brigade)
Release date


Retro

Back of Passport – Block 1

Transcription:
Дает право на бесплатный гарантий-
ный ремонт часов в течение гарантий-
ного срока.

Виды работ поддержуки:
1. Разборка и промывка механизма с
заменой деталей и узлов
2. Разборка и промывка механизма без
замены деталей и узлов.

При отрыве талона мастерская ставит
на паспорте штамп и дату, что дает
право потребителю в случае некачествен-
но выполненных работ на повторное бес-
платное исправление часов в той же ма-
стерской.

При отправке часов в гарантийную ма-
стерскую часового завода почтовой по-
сылкой потребитель должен кратко опи-
сать причину, по которой он направляет
часы, и приложить справку гарантийной
мастерской. Посылку следует отправлять
без “наложенного платежа”.

Владелец и его адрес

Подпись

Translation:
Entitles to free warranty
repair of watches during the warranty
period.

Types of supported work:
1. Disassembly and washing of the mechanism with
replacement of parts and units
2. Disassembly and washing of the mechanism without
replacement of parts and units.

When detaching the coupon, the workshop places
a stamp and date on the passport, which gives
the consumer the right, in case of poorly
performed work, to a free correction of the watch in the same
workshop.

When sending the watch to the warranty
workshop of the factory by mail, the consumer must briefly
describe the reason for sending the watch and attach the
warranty workshop certificate. The package should be sent
without “cash on delivery”.

Owner and address

Signature

Back of Passport – Block 2

Transcription:
—переведите стрелки вращением головки, после установки
стрелок головку заверните.
Для замера времени в пределах часа началу шкалы пово-
ротного ранта совместите с минутной стрелкой и отсчет веди-
те по шкале ранта.
Для сохранения свечения светосостава не подвергайте ци-
ферблат длительному воздействию солнечных лучей.
Для надежного функционирования часов соблюдайте сле-
дующие правила:
— оберегайте часы от падения, резких ударов, от воздействия
химических продуктов;
— не открывайте корпус часов во избежание попадания пыли
и грязи в механизм;
— при отвинчивания заводной головки убедитесь в отсутствии
капель воды вокруг неё;
— не отвинчивайте заводную головку часом, находящихся в
воде;
— перед погружением в воду убедитесь, что заводная головка
полностью завернута.
Часы рассчитаны на долговечный срок службы с периодиче-
ской чисткой, смазкой и регулировкой, не реже одного раза
в три года в послегарантийный период эксплуатации.

Translation:
—Set the hands by turning the crown, after setting
the hands, tighten the crown.
To measure the time within an hour, align the start of the scale of the
rotating bezel with the minute hand and count according to the bezel scale.
To preserve the luminescence of the luminescent composition, do not expose the
dial to direct sunlight for a long time.
For reliable operation of the watch, follow these
rules:
— protect the watch from drops, sharp impacts, and exposure to
chemical products;
— do not open the case of the watch to avoid getting dust and
dirt into the mechanism;
— when unscrewing the crown, make sure there are no
water drops around it;
— do not unscrew the crown while the watch is in
water;
— before immersing in water, make sure the crown
is fully tightened.
The watch is designed for a long service life with periodic
cleaning, lubrication, and adjustment, at least once
every three years during the post-warranty period of use.

Back of Passport – Block 3

Transcription:
ГАРАНТИЙНЫЕ ОБЯЗАТЕЛЬСТВА

Гарантийный срок эксплуатации часов — 1 год со дня про-
дажи через розничную торговую сеть.
Гарантия не распространяется на часы:
без паспорта;
с истекшим сроком гарантии;
с нарушением правил эксплуатации, указанных в настоя-
щем паспорте.
Адрес гарантийной мастерской завода: 422950, ТССР,
г. Чистополь, ул. Энгельса, 127, часовой завод.
Не качественные часы обмениваются в магазине согласно
«Правилам обмена промышленных товаров».

Translation:
WARRANTY OBLIGATIONS

The warranty period of the watch is 1 year from the date of
sale through the retail network.
The warranty does not apply to watches:
without a passport;
with an expired warranty period;
with violations of the operating rules indicated in the
passport.
Address of the factory warranty workshop: 422950, TSSR,
Chistopol, Engels Street, 127, watch factory.
Defective watches are exchanged in the store according to the
«Rules for the exchange of industrial goods».

Back of Passport – Block 4

Transcription:
Дает право на бесплатный гарантий-
ный ремонт часов при котором произво-
дятся работы без разборки механизма.

Владелец и его адрес:

Подпись

ЛИНИЯ ОТРЕЗА
Требуйте при изъятии талона заполнения корешка

Translation:
Entitles to free warranty
repair of watches during which
work is carried out without disassembling the mechanism.

Owner and address:

Signature

LINE OF CUTTING
Require the completion of the stub when removing the coupon


Front of the Passport

Basic Information and Warranty: The passport begins with basic information about the Chistopol watch factory, providing the complete address. The watch model, “Vostok-Amphibia” caliber 2409A, is specified, and the date of sale is indicated with the shop stamp and the owner’s signature.

Technical Data: The technical characteristics of the watch are listed, including the accuracy class, the average daily variation, the number of functional rubies, and the duration of operation with a full wind. Additionally, the maximum diving depth and the total service life of the watch are indicated.

Usage Instructions: The instructions explain how to properly use the watch, including how to wind it, set the hands, and ensure the crown is securely screwed before immersion in water. The importance of avoiding prolonged exposure to direct sunlight to preserve the dial’s luminosity is emphasized.

Bottom Section: The bottom section of the passport contains various codes and numbers related to the external finish, site number, release date, watch number, case coating, precious metal content, retail price, and item number.

Back of the Passport

Warranty Obligations: The back of the passport begins with a section dedicated to warranty obligations. It specifies that during the warranty period, the watch is repaired free of charge by presenting the manufacturer’s workshop certificate, the commercial organization’s stamp, the date of sale, and the owner’s signature. However, the warranty does not cover the glass, strap, bracelet, case (metal), and mechanisms damaged by shocks or other defects caused by the consumer.

Warranty Conditions: It is reiterated that the warranty period is 1 year from the date of sale through the retail network. The warranty does not apply to watches without a passport, with an expired warranty period, or with violations of the usage rules indicated in the passport. The address of the manufacturer’s warranty workshop is provided for any repairs.

Repair Guidelines: The document continues with repair guidelines, specifying that the free repair covers work without disassembling the mechanism. The owner is asked to properly fill out the stub when removed and to ensure no water droplets around the crown when unscrewed.

Final Notes: Finally, the passport concludes with a reminder to require the completion of the stub when removed and the owner’s signature.


Continua….

The Watch Cooperatives of the Petrodvorets Factory

russian watch Raketa PM - ВМФ СССР

During the Perestroika, a period of major economic and social reforms in the Soviet Union led by Mikhail Gorbachev, the historic Petrodvorets Watch Factory (also known as Raketa) gave rise to three unique cooperatives: Renaissance, Prestige, and Peterhof Masters. These cooperatives, active in the late 1980s and early 1990s, represent a fascinating chapter in the history of Soviet watches. Here, we will explore the history, activities, and peculiarities of each of these cooperatives.

Renaissance: The Art of Watches in Precious Stone

Origin and Specialization

The Renaissance cooperative emerged in the late 1980s at the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in Saint Petersburg, Russia. Founded during the Perestroika, Renaissance specialized in producing wristwatches and pocket watches with dials made of semi-precious stones such as jade, jasper, malachite, and nephrite. These watches were particularly appreciated for their beauty and uniqueness.

Activities and Production

Renaissance was renowned for the impeccable quality of its stone dials, making each watch a unique piece. The watches produced were mainly mechanical but also included quartz models. The pocket watches with stone dials were rare and produced in limited quantities, making them highly sought-after collectibles.

Sources and Videos

Prestige: Elegance Reflected in Mirror Dials

Origin and Specialization

The Prestige cooperative was also founded in the late 1980s, during a period of economic transition for the Soviet Union. Prestige is distinguished by its production of watches with mirror dials and iridescent coatings that change color depending on the viewing angle. This type of dial was particularly innovative and attractive.

Activities and Production

Prestige was famous for its mirror dials, often decorated with religious themes and images of churches. These watches were not sold commercially and were probably produced in very small batches. The watches had tall cases with a projection for the calendar, giving them a distinctive appearance.

Examples of Models and Technical Details

  • Mirror dial with an image of Saint George the Victorious
  • Gold-plated case nicknamed “Peterhof frog”
  • Mechanical movement 2609

Sources and Videos

Peterhof Masters: Creativity and Printed Themes

Origin and Specialization

The Peterhof Masters cooperative, also founded in the late 1980s, focused on producing watches with printed dials on various themes. This cooperative was known for the high quality of its prints and the variety of themes covered in its designs.

Activities and Production

Peterhof Masters’ watches were often decorated with naval and military themes. The dials were detailed and well-finished, giving the watches a particular charm.

Examples of Models and Technical Details

  • Atomic Icebreaker Yamal: Printed dial with the image of the atomic icebreaker Yamal, mechanical movement 2614
  • Koppernik: White dial with Roman numerals, naval and military themes, caliber 26NP movement

Sources and Videos

The Charm of Petrodvorets Cooperative Watches

Watches produced by the Renaissance, Prestige, and Peterhof Masters cooperatives not only represent the excellence of Soviet craftsmanship but also tell a story of innovation and adaptation during a period of significant change. These watches, with their unique characteristics and fascinating history, are precious items for collectors and watch enthusiasts.

Authoritative Sources

Alexander Brodnikovsky, a recognized expert in this field, has shared much of this valuable information, providing a detailed view of these rare watches and the cooperatives that produced them.

Conclusion

The cooperatives of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory represent a unique chapter in the history of Soviet watches. Each cooperative left a distinctive mark, creating watches that are appreciated today not only for their beauty and quality but also for their historical significance. Collecting these watches means owning a piece of history and celebrating the ingenuity and craftsmanship of the past.


Orologi da Polso 1989: Italian Watch Magazine and the Soviet Wristwatch Boom

Rivista orologi da polso marzo aprile 1989 n9 anno 3 pagina 1

I recently recovered a copy of “Orologi da Polso” Year III no. 9 (March–April 1989, Edizioni Studio Zeta, Monza), an influential Italian magazine dedicated to horology during the late-1980s Soviet watch boom.
Inside, you’ll find an insightful article by Arturo Chiti, full of details about Soviet watchmaking, Italy’s first Russian watch importers, and a unique perspective on the Italian watch scene during the era of Gorbachev.
Below is the original article in Italian, followed by an English translation, to preserve and share this important piece of watch history with an international audience.

Testo originale – Italiano

Anche se il Congresso sovietico del ’25 proclamava per l’URSS l’obiettivo dell’autosufficienza economica, la trasformazione da paese importatore di macchine e attrezzature a paese che voleva produrre in proprio, sino a qualche anno fa sarebbe stato impensabile che un orologio sovietico diventasse non solo di moda, ma quasi fenomeno di costume.

Pure la storia dell’orologeria russa ha antenati illustri. Gli orologi da torre del Cremlino furono costruiti agli inizi del Quattrocento da Lazar Serbin, mentre per i carillon della torre del Salvatore, restaurati nel secolo scorso, lo Zar si rivolse a due fratelli russi, gli orologiai Butenop. E ancora sotto uno Zar, Pietro il Grande, che aveva chiamato famosi artigiani francesi, si sviluppò una scuola di orologeria, anche se i francesi sembra avessero maggiori privilegi degli artigiani locali. Preziosi orologi di Ivan Kulihin, che visse nel ‘700, sono all’Hermitage di Leningrado e musei moscoviti e di altre città hanno sezioni dedicate all’orologeria. Nello scorso autunno ci fu un’esposizione a Firenze di alcuni splendidi pezzi delle collezioni dei Romanoff e sfogliando antichi libri si apprende che nella storia dell’orologio russo la famiglia dei Bronnikov era famosa per i suoi orologi in legno (filie molle erano in metallo) e che rivestirono un ruolo importante per i miglioramenti apportati alla meccanica, gli orologiai Tolstoj e Nosov.

Prima della rivoluzione si importavano parti e meccanismi dalla Svizzera provvedendo poi al loro assemblaggio. A cavallo del secolo la Francia fece diversi investimenti nei domini dello Zar e dopo la prima Guerra mondiale, per recuperare parte dei capitali, pretese che l’Italia acquistasse orologi russi da tasca che furono poi dati in dotazione al personale delle Ferrovie.

«Le prime industrie sovietiche di orologi risalgono solo agli anni Trenta» dice Jacopo Marchi, P.R. dell’Artime, che è andato a Mosca nello scorso dicembre dopo che l’azienda napoletana aveva sottoscritto un accordo di collaborazione con la Boctok (ma si legge Vostok). Dal viaggio in Russia Marchi ha riportato molte notizie, tanto che per il lancio dei «Komandirskie» ha realizzato per Time Trend, distributore del prodotto, un tabloide sulla storia dell’Armata rossa e dei suoi orologi.

Due industrie (una di orologi preziosi e l’altra di orologi con casse di legno) vennero convertite in aziende belliche negli anni ’40, per tornare poi alle funzioni originali. L’industria principale di Mosca diede vita nel ’42 alla Boctok, una delle più importanti e tra le poche di cui per le strade moscovite si possono vedere cartelloni pubblicitari. Dopo la fine della guerra altre industrie furono aperte a Serdobsk, Yerevan, Petrodvoretes e Uglich. Venne creato un istituto per la ricerca e il design nelle lavorazioni meccaniche. Nel 1962 furono anche prodotti i primi orologi a diapason.

Oggi in URSS operano oltre quindici fabbriche di orologi, molte delle quali specializzate in produzioni particolari. Tra le più note ricordiamo Chaika, Poljot, Zaria, Paketa, Slava e Penza, quest’ultima destinata alla produzione di orologi da polso femminili. Il quantitativo di orologi prodotti è imponente. Intorno agli anni Cinquanta iniziò anche l’esportazione destinata per lo più a nazioni aderenti al patto di Varsavia. Erano orologi di buon livello con prezzi politicamente differenziati. È di quegli anni il Mark che pubblichiamo e il cui quadrante è simile a quello del Poljot. È un orologio con una storia romantica. Fu donato a un nostro collega, allora bambino, da una signora italiana che aveva sposato un russo che, per le leggi staliniane, non poteva venire a vivere in Italia e i due erano costretti così a vedersi di tanto in tanto solo come turisti.

La prima importazione di orologi russi in Italia è stata fatta da Orazio Occhipinti della Mirabilia di Milano che nella seconda metà del 1988 ha iniziato sul territorio nazionale la distribuzione dei Paketa fabbricati a Pietrogrado. Paketa in russo significa «razzo» e si legge «raketa», La bontà dell’idea, complice anche l’apertura generale verso Gorbaciov, è stata ampiamente confermata dalla vera e propria corsa all’orologio russo che si è scatenata in seguito. Vien da pensare a questo proposito che solo pochi anni or sono un dirigente di una grande azienda europea, dopo un viaggio in Unione Sovietica durante il quale era rimasto colpito dagli orologi, ne propose l’importazione ma si sentì chiedere dai suoi se aveva voglía di scherzare. Dunque i primi russi che hanno rotto il ghiaccio sul nostro mercato sono stati i Paketa. Oggi sono disponibili nove versioni che si differenziano sia per il design del quadrante per le funzioni. Sono meccanici a carica manuale e cassa antishock. Alla fiera di Vicenza Mirabilia ha presentato anche i Poljot prodotti a Leningrado, un cronografo e uno svegliarino, a carica manuale, proposti in quattro versioni. Gli orologi dell’Armata rossa, i Boctok, sono disponibili in cinque modelli con quadranti realizzati per le specializzazioni dell’esercito al quale sono destinati. Sono orologi meccanici a carica manuale, impermeabili a 10 atmosfere, hanno la ghiera girevole con indici e lancette fosforescenti.

Ci sono poi orologi con meccanismo di fabbricazione russa e cassa e quadrante costruiti in Italia per accostare un «cuore» russo al design italiano, come il Soviet, disponibile in vari colori di cassa e quadrante. È un orologio quarzo impermeabile a 3 atm. E ancora i sei modelli della collezione Perestrojka (quattro al quarzo e due cronografi meccanici) che la Elmitex ha presentato sia a Vicenza sia a Mosca come un prodotto «italorusso».

Il sesto orologio con la stella rossa è quello proposto dalla I. Binda S.p.A. Il marchio BREMA, con la A che è una R rovesciata, si legge Vremia e significa Tempo. Sono orologi meccanici disponibili in tre modelli (normale, con suoneria e un cronografo) proposti in 17 versioni. I quadranti sono di ispirazione anni ’30 seguendo la tendenza culturale in voga in Russia e battezzata «strutturalista».


Full English Translation

Even though the 1925 Soviet Congress declared the USSR’s goal of economic self-sufficiency, turning the country from an importer of machinery and equipment into a producer, until just a few years ago it would have been unthinkable for a Soviet wristwatch to become not only fashionable, but a genuine social phenomenon.

Russian watchmaking, however, has illustrious origins. The Kremlin’s tower clocks were built in the early 15th century by Lazar Serbin, and when the chimes of the Saviour Tower were restored last century, the Tsar turned to two Russian brothers, the Butenops, who were master clockmakers. Under Peter the Great, who invited famous French craftsmen to Russia, a Russian watchmaking school developed—even if the French apparently enjoyed more privileges than the local artisans. Precious watches by Ivan Kulikhin, who lived in the 18th century, can be found at the Hermitage in Leningrad, and museums in Moscow and other cities have sections devoted to horology. Last autumn, a Florence exhibition featured stunning pieces from the Romanoff collections. Old books reveal that the Bronnikov family was famous for its wooden watches (with metal gears), and that watchmakers like Tolstoy and Nosov played a key role in technical improvements.

Before the Revolution, parts and movements were imported from Switzerland and assembled locally. At the turn of the century, France invested in the Tsar’s domains, and after the First World War—seeking to recover capital—demanded that Italy purchase Russian pocket watches, which were later issued to Italian railway workers.

“The first Soviet watch factories date only to the 1930s,” says Jacopo Marchi, PR manager for Artime, who travelled to Moscow last December after the Neapolitan company signed a collaboration agreement with Boctok (pronounced Vostok). Marchi brought back a wealth of information, so much so that for the launch of the ‘Komandirskie’ he produced a special magazine on the Red Army and its watches for Time Trend, the product’s Italian distributor.

Two factories—one producing luxury watches, the other making wooden-cased watches—were converted to wartime production in the 1940s, only to return to their original functions later. Moscow’s main factory gave rise in 1942 to Boctok, one of the most important Soviet brands, and among the few to have billboards in Moscow’s streets. After the war, new factories opened in Serdobsk, Yerevan, Petrodvorets and Uglich. An institute for mechanical research and design was founded. In 1962, the first Soviet tuning fork (diapason) watches were made.

Today, more than fifteen watch factories operate in the USSR, many specialising in particular types of production. The best known include Chaika, Poljot, Zaria, Paketa, Slava and Penza, the latter focusing on women’s wristwatches. The number of watches produced is enormous. From the 1950s, Soviet watches were exported mainly to other Warsaw Pact nations—well-made pieces, with politically adjusted pricing. One such watch, the Mark (with a dial similar to the Poljot) is featured here. It has a romantic history: it was given to a colleague, then a child, by an Italian woman who had married a Russian. Under Stalinist law, he was not allowed to live in Italy, so the couple could only meet occasionally as tourists.

The first import of Russian watches to Italy was by Orazio Occhipinti of Mirabilia (Milan), who began national distribution of Paketa watches from Petrograd in the second half of 1988. Paketa in Russian means “rocket” and is pronounced “Raketa.” The idea’s success—helped by the general mood of openness under Gorbachev—was clear from the sudden rush for Russian watches that followed. Interestingly, only a few years earlier, an executive at a major European firm, after visiting the USSR and being struck by the watches, suggested importing them—only to be asked if he was joking. So, Paketa were the first to break the ice in our market. Today, there are nine available versions, differing in dial design and function. They are manual-wind mechanicals with anti-shock cases. At the Vicenza fair, Mirabilia also presented Poljot watches made in Leningrad—a chronograph and an alarm watch, both manual-wind, offered in four versions. Red Army watches—Boctok—come in five models, each with dials themed for army specialisations. These are manual-wind mechanical watches, water resistant to 10 atmospheres, with rotating bezels and luminous hands and markers.

There are also watches with Russian-made movements, but Italian cases and dials, to combine a Russian “heart” with Italian design—such as the Soviet, available in a range of case and dial colours. This is a quartz watch, water resistant to 3 atm. Then there are six models in the Perestrojka collection (four quartz, two mechanical chronographs) presented by Elmitex at both Vicenza and Moscow as an “Italo-Russian” product.

The sixth red-star watch is offered by I. Binda S.p.A. The BREMA brand—with a reversed R for the “A”—is read as Vremia, meaning Time. These are mechanical watches available in three models (standard, alarm, and chronograph) with 17 dial versions. The dials are inspired by the 1930s, in keeping with a cultural trend currently popular in Russia, known as “structuralist.”

Conclusion


This rare 1989 issue of Orologi da Polso is a true time capsule for any vintage or Soviet watch collector. The article not only chronicles the arrival of Russian watches in Italy but also captures the atmosphere, tastes, and market dynamics of the era. Whether you’re passionate about Vostok, Raketa, Poljot, or the unique East-West collaborations, this publication is a valuable reference and a fascinating read for enthusiasts everywhere.
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