Soviet Zaria Watch: A Symbol of the 1990 Goodwill Games

Orologio Zaria dei Goodwill Games del 1990 con logo di cooperazione USA-URSS

Introduction

In the realm of Soviet watchmaking, the Zaria watch from the 1990 Goodwill Games stands out as an intriguing piece of historical memorabilia. Produced by the Zaria brand, this watch features a 21-jewel, manually wound 2009b calibre. Although an economical model, its design and the historical context in which it was made make it noteworthy for enthusiasts of Soviet horology.

Orologio Zaria dei Goodwill Games del 1990 con logo di cooperazione USA-URSS
Orologio Zaria commemorativo dei Goodwill Games del 1990 a Seattle, simbolo di amicizia USA-URSS.

Technical Specifications

The Zaria Goodwill Games 1990 watch uses a manually wound mechanical movement, identified as the 2009b calibre, with 21 jewels. This type of movement was common in watches from that era. The watch case is made of coated brass, a material often used for budget watches, providing basic protection for the internal mechanism. The technical specifics of the 2009 calibre include an oscillation frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (vph) and a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. This movement is simple and functional but not particularly known for long-term reliability.

Dial Analysis

The watch dial is rich in symbolism. At the centre, it features a logo depicting two hands shaking, one with the colours of the United States flag and the other with those of the Soviet Union. This symbol of international cooperation is surrounded by the text “Seattle ’90” and “Goodwill Games,” clearly indicating the event and the year.

Significance of the Goodwill Games

The Goodwill Games were conceived by media mogul Ted Turner as a response to the Olympic boycotts during the Cold War. The first edition was held in 1986 in Moscow, and the 1990 event in Seattle marked a moment of détente between the United States and the Soviet Union. This sporting event aimed to promote peace and cooperation between the two superpowers.

Dial Details

In addition to the central logo, the dial features two red stars and the text “Zaria USSR,” confirming the Soviet origin of the watch. The gold-coloured hands stand out clearly against the white background of the dial, offering good legibility.

Conclusion

The Zaria watch from the 1990 Goodwill Games is an interesting example of Soviet watchmaking, with a design reflecting a specific moment in world history. Despite being an economical model with modest technical features, its value lies primarily in the historical and symbolic context represented by the dial. For enthusiasts of Russian and Soviet horology, this watch represents an intriguing piece to add to their collection, helping to preserve the memory of a period of international collaboration.

The CARDI Vostok Watch Brand: A Collaboration Between Design and Russian Mechanics

cardi vostok russian watch

Introduction

The CARDI Vostok watch brand represents a unique collaboration between Western design and Russian mechanical precision. Founded in the early 1990s, this brand distinguished itself with unique designs and the use of high-quality movements produced by the renowned Vostok watch factory.

Origins and History

The history of CARDI Vostok begins in 1991, shortly after the collapse of the Soviet Union. The name “Cardi” is derived from the abbreviation of “Car Design Studio,” a Russian company specializing in automobile customization. In an attempt to diversify its activities, Cardi began collaborating with the Vostok watch factory to produce watches with a more “Western” aesthetic​ (WatchUSeek Watch Forums)​​ (WatchUSeek Watch Forums)​.

The early models of CARDI Vostok were known for their innovative design and the use of materials such as brass and cheap alloys, mainly produced by the Minsk Watch Factory. These watches were considered high quality, but over time the quality of the materials declined, leading the brand to lose popularity and cease production around 2009​ (Sovietaly)​.

Design and Movements

cardi vostok russian watch
Cardi Vostok Racingtime GP

CARDI Vostok models combine Cardi’s creative design with Vostok’s robust mechanical movements. The designs were often inspired by the automotive world, with names like “Capitan,” “MVM Sport,” “GP,” “Racing Time,” and “Radar”​ (WatchUSeek Watch Forums)​.

The watches used high-quality mechanical movements, such as the 2409 caliber produced by the Vostok factory. Some later models used movements from the 1st Moscow Watch Factory (Poljot) and the Slava factory, in addition to the original Vostok movements. However, after being acquired by Interex-Orion in 2000, the brand began using Chinese movements to reduce costs, further impacting the overall quality of the watches​ (WatchCrunch)​​ (WatchUSeek Watch Forums)​.

cardi vostok russian watch
Cardi Vostok Racingtime GP

Decline and End of Production

Despite initial success, various factors led to the brand’s decline. The quality of the materials used decreased over time, and the introduction of Chinese movements compromised the brand’s reputation for quality. These changes led to a drop in sales and, ultimately, the cessation of production around 2009. Today, Cardi has withdrawn from the watch market and refocused on automotive design​ (Sovietaly)​​ (WatchUSeek Watch Forums)​.

Conclusion

CARDI Vostok watches represent an interesting chapter in the history of Russian watchmaking, characterized by a mix of Western design and Russian mechanics. Although production has ceased, these watches remain collectible items for vintage watch enthusiasts and symbolize a period of transition and innovation.

For more information, you can consult the sources used in this article: WatchCrunch, WatchUSeek, Sovietaly, and SovietWatchStore.

Raketa Karelia: 100 Years of Automotive History

russian watch Raketa 100 years of transport in republic of Karelia

A Jewel of History and Mechanics

The watch depicted in the photo is a Raketa model, calibre 2609 HA with 19 jewels. This specific timepiece, model number 4321xxx, was produced in the 1990s and celebrates the centenary of automotive transport in the Karelia region of Russia.

russian watch Raketa 100 years of transport in republic of Karelia
Raketa 100 years of transport in republic of Karelia

Dial Details

The watch’s dial is rich with symbolism and commemorations:

  • Historic and Modern Vehicles: At the top, there are illustrations of two vehicles: an old-fashioned car on the left and a modern vehicle on the right. These vehicles represent the evolution of automotive transport over a century.
  • Circular Inscription: The red inscription surrounding the dial reads “КАРЕЛИЯ 100 ЛЕТ АВТОМОБИЛЬНОМУ ТРАНСПОРТУ”, which translates to “Karelia, 100 years of automotive transport”. This underscores the centenary celebration.
  • Logo and Years: At the centre of the dial, a blue and red logo with the number “100” highlights the importance of the anniversary.

Historical Significance

The watch was created to celebrate an important milestone in the history of the Karelia region, highlighting the significance of automotive transport in the economic and social development of the area. The commemoration of 100 years of automotive transport reflects the technological and infrastructural progress that has taken place since the introduction of the first cars up to the present day.

The Raketa Brand

Raketa, one of the most renowned watch brands in Russia, has a long history of producing robust and reliable watches. The calibre 2609 HA used in this model is known for its precision and durability, making the watch not only a commemorative piece but also a high-quality technical object.

The Karelia Region

Karelia is a historic region located in the northwest of Russia, known for its breathtaking natural landscapes and rich cultural history. Here are some highlights about Karelia:

  • Geography and Nature: Karelia is characterised by a vast number of lakes and forests, making it a popular destination for nature lovers. Lake Ladoga, the largest in Europe, is partly located in Karelia.
  • History and Culture: The region has a complex and fascinating history, having been contested between Sweden, Russia, and Finland over the centuries. This has led to a rich cultural mix and diverse influences in language, music, and local traditions.
  • Economy: In addition to tourism, Karelia’s economy is based on the timber, fishing, and natural resources industries. In recent decades, automotive transport has played a key role in the region’s economic development, facilitating trade and mobility.

Conclusion

This Raketa watch is not just a timekeeping device, but also a piece of history that celebrates a century of progress in automotive transport in Karelia. With its distinctive design and significant details, it stands as a lasting tribute to the evolution and importance of automotive transport in the region.

The French Branch of SLAVA in Besançon: A Fascinating Chapter in Soviet Watchmaking

Orologio Slava Besançon automatico con quadrante nero e indicatori gialli

Introduction

The history of Soviet watchmaking is enriched by fascinating episodes of international cooperation. A significant example is the French branch of SLAVA, located in Besançon. This branch, established to facilitate Soviet industrial activities in the West, played a crucial role in the production of high-quality watches.

Orologio Slava Besançon automatico con quadrante nero e indicatori gialli
Orologio Slava Besançon automatico con quadrante nero e indicatori gialli

Origins and Historical Context

Besançon, known for its long tradition of watchmaking, hosted the SLAVA branch at number 7 rue Auguste Jouchoux, right next to the famous Lip company. The choice of this location was not accidental: the city not only had a strong tradition in the sector but also historical ties with the USSR. In fact, collaborations between Lip and the Soviets in the 1930s laid the foundations for the post-war revival of Soviet watchmaking.

Production and Innovation

The French branch of SLAVA began producing gold-plated cases as early as the late 1960s. This strategy allowed the Soviets to leverage local expertise to create high-quality products for the European market. The factory also produced and marketed various models under the Raketa brand. The dials of these Soviet-Besançon watches bore the inscription « механизм cccp » (« USSR mechanism »), distinguishing them from those produced in the USSR.

The SLAVA Besançon supply catalogue, probably dated to the late 1960s, lists spare parts for Chaika, Zaria, Slava, Molnia, and Poljot movements. This document is a valuable testimony to the diversification and quality of SLAVA’s production in France.

Expansion and Development

Slava Besançon also registered the trademarks Diamant, Diamant de Luxe, and Saintis, under which it marketed watches entirely made in the USSR. Initially, Slava was located in place Saint-Pierre, the headquarters of S.I.C.E.H., then in place du Jura. The first factory was installed in rue Henri Baigue, but in 1975 Slava built a new factory in rue Auguste Jouchoux. The industrial park still bears the name Slava today.

By the early 1980s, the factory employed 70 people for assembly, quality control, and after-sales service. Soviet mechanical movements were gradually replaced by quartz movements, all supplied by France-Ébauches. The company also marketed, in the last years of the USSR, the Big Zero and Rising Sun models, classics marked “Made in USSR”. It is unclear whether these watches were imported, assembled from Soviet parts, or assembled with a Soviet mechanism and a Besançon case.

Changes and Decline

In 1983, the Soviet board of directors (Mashpriborintorg representatives) of Slava parted ways first with its Besançon director, Bernard Le Varlet, then with Maurice Carruzzo a few months later. Dismissed for “technical reasons”, Maurice Carruzzo distributed leaflets through his wife at the factory gates on 16 August.

One possible explanation is that he had brought Slava closer to Lip and France-Ébauches, sourcing quartz mechanisms from them and thus creating 100% French watches, which probably was not in the Soviets’ interest.

Slava Precision: New Directions

On 15 January 1990, the joint-stock company Slava-Précision was founded, taking over Slava’s assets. It was led by M. Aubach, already active in the para-watchmaking industry (Interstrap and Watch Design companies), with the Russian supervisory board president, M. Korolev. The company continued its watchmaking activities in the same building on rue Jouchoux, importing from Russia and Hong Kong, and exporting to Canada, Switzerland, and Italy, but moving its optical activities to the Paris region.

Slava Précision still employed 24 people in 2004 but went into judicial liquidation on 12 June 2006 (the procedure was closed in 2009).

Union of Expertise and Tradition

The watches assembled in Besançon used movements produced in the USSR, such as the 2602 movement from 2MChZ. These watches bore the inscription “RUSSIAN MOVEMENT” on the dials, testifying to the Soviet origin of their components. This production avoided the commercial constraints that would have made the use of the “Made in USSR” label problematic in Europe.

Conclusion

The SLAVA branch in Besançon represents a fascinating example of industrial cooperation between the USSR and Western Europe. This story not only enriches the narrative of Soviet watchmaking but also demonstrates how the union of different skills can lead to the creation of exceptional products.

The Rise and Fall of Soviet Watchmaking: A Timeless Legacy

Vintage-style image depicting the history and decline of Soviet watchmaking with iconic Soviet watches, old factories, and mechanical gears in sepia tones.

The world of horology is vast and varied, with different regions contributing unique innovations and styles to the craft of watchmaking. Among these, Soviet watches hold a special place for their robustness, affordability, and historical significance. This essay explores why Soviet watches offer a superior quality-price ratio compared to Swiss watches of the same era, analyzes the reasons behind the decline of Soviet watchmaking, and examines whether the rise of Japanese quartz watches played a role in this decline.

Why Soviet Watches Offer Great Value

Production Efficiency and Cost Containment

Soviet watch manufacturers, such as Vostok and Raketa, were known for their efficient production methods. Unlike the highly specialized and labor-intensive Swiss watchmaking process, Soviet factories emphasized mass production and automation. This approach allowed them to keep production costs low while maintaining a reasonable level of quality. For instance, the Vostok Amphibia, famous for its durability and water resistance, was produced using straightforward and cost-effective techniques that still met high standards of robustness​ (Russian Watches)​​ (Vintage Radar)​.

Focus on Functionality and Durability

Soviet watches were designed to be functional and durable, often used in military and industrial settings. The Vostok Komandirskie, for example, was the official watch of the Soviet military and was built to withstand harsh conditions. Similarly, the Raketa Polar was designed for Arctic explorers, featuring a 24-hour dial to help navigate the polar day-night cycle​ (Russian Watches)​. These watches were engineered to be reliable tools rather than luxury items, making them highly valued for their practicality.

Innovation in Movements

Despite being produced under challenging conditions, Soviet watchmakers managed to create innovative and reliable movements. The Raketa 24-hour movement and the Poljot chronographs are prime examples. These movements, while not as refined as their Swiss counterparts, were robust and served their purpose well. This innovation extended to unique designs like the Poljot 2200, one of the thinnest movements ever produced, showcasing Soviet ingenuity​ (aBlogtoWatch)​​ (Collectors Weekly)​.

The Decline of Soviet Watchmaking

Impact of Japanese Quartz Watches

The introduction of quartz watches by Japanese manufacturers like Seiko in 1969 revolutionized the watch industry. Quartz technology offered greater accuracy at a lower cost compared to mechanical movements, which severely impacted traditional watchmakers worldwide. Swiss manufacturers were hit hard, but Soviet watchmakers, who were already struggling with economic inefficiencies and political instability, found it even more challenging to compete​ (Swissinfo)​​ (Fratello Watches)​.

Internal Challenges and Economic Collapse

The decline in the quality of Soviet watches began in the late 1970s and continued through the 1980s. As the Soviet economy weakened, so did the watch industry’s ability to procure high-quality materials and maintain production standards. By the time the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, many watch factories were already in disarray, suffering from underfunding and disorganization​ (VintageDuMarko)​​ (Collectors Weekly)​.

Loss of Market and Transition to Capitalism

With the dissolution of the Soviet Union, the transition from a centralized economy to a market-oriented one was chaotic. Many state-owned enterprises, including watch factories, could not adapt quickly enough to survive in the new economic environment. The lack of infrastructure to support a market economy, coupled with the sudden influx of foreign competition, led to the closure of many iconic Soviet watch brands​ (VintageDuMarko)​​ (Collectors Weekly)​.

Conclusion

The story of Soviet watchmaking is a tale of innovation, resilience, and eventual decline. While Soviet watches provided excellent value through their robust design, efficient production, and innovative movements, they could not withstand the dual pressures of technological disruption from Japanese quartz watches and the economic collapse of the Soviet Union. Despite these challenges, the legacy of Soviet watches endures, celebrated by collectors and horology enthusiasts worldwide for their historical significance and unique charm.

In the end, the rise and fall of Soviet watchmaking offer valuable lessons in industrial adaptation, the impact of technological advancements, and the complex interplay between politics and economics in shaping industry fortunes. As we look back on this fascinating chapter in horological history, the indomitable spirit of Soviet watchmakers continues to tick away, reminding us of a bygone era of innovation and resilience.

Vostok Desert Shield: A Watch Steeped in Legend and History

soviet watch Vostok Komandirskie Operation Desert Shield

Among Russian watches, the Vostok Desert Shield stands out as a hero of numerous urban legends, misunderstandings, stories, and fictional anecdotes. Below, we explore the history and various versions of this iconic watch.

Origins and Creation

The American newspaper Beverly Times mentions the birth of the Vostok Desert Shield on January 28, 1991. The article, likely an advertorial, highlights Bruce Erikson, an American businessman who had the idea of importing “Made in the USSR” watches to the United States. Erikson founded Timepeace Russian Watches Inc. in 1990, commissioning the Vostok factory in Chistopol to produce 10,000 watches to commemorate Operation “Desert Shield” during the Gulf War.

Beverly Times article featuring Timepeace CEO Bruce Erikson displaying the Vostok Desert Shield watch
An article from the Beverly Times dated January 28, 1991, highlighting the promotion of the Vostok Desert Shield watch by Timepeace CEO Bruce Erikson.

The Flag Research Centre worked on the dial image, creating the famous design that combined the American flag with a palm tree and two green Arabian sabres, in homage to the Kingdom of Hejaz and the Sultanate of Nejd, united in 1932 to become Saudi Arabia. Erikson also intended to send a watch to President Bush. These watches were not intended for American soldiers serving during the Gulf War; the entire initiative was purely commercial.

Production Details and Various Versions

It seems that the actual production increased to 40,000 units, divided into several series worth distinguishing and analyzing.

First Series

The first series of the Desert Shield is recognizable by the absence of the Vostok B logo on the dial, with the inscription “Made in USSR.” The case is the 420 Amphibian, combined with a bezel with a luminous dot at 12, four small red dots, and seven black dots. The hands are those of the Amphibia, with the seconds hand red and a luminous “lollipop.”

The Timepeace logo is engraved on the case back, which also bears the words “VOSTOK,” “Series I,” “USSR,” “Self Winding,” “SS Case,” “Watertight 200m,” “21 jewels,” and a five-digit serial number. The movement is an automatic Vostok 2416B, with the words “twenty-one” and “21 jewels” written in black on the oscillating weight.

The watch was sold for $149, with a discount for military personnel at $99. It was sold with documents in English, suggesting it was intended for the American market, supporting the idea that it was not a military watch but an accessory available in outlets.

soviet watch Vostok Komandirskie Operation Desert Shield
Vostok Komandirskie Operation Desert Shield
Second Series

This version had an identical dial to the first series but some differences. The case remained the 420 steel model, but the coordinated bezel became the standard Amphibia one, with slightly larger red dots.

The case back had the Timepeace logo and the inscriptions “VOSTOK” or “VREMIR,” “USSR,” “Self-Winding,” “SS Case,” “Watertight 200m,” “21 jewels,” and a six-digit serial number. The movement remained the automatic 2416B, with the inscriptions “twenty-one” and “21 jewels” not in black.

When we talk about the possibility of finding the VOSTOK or VREMIR logo on the case back, we should add that “VREMIR” combines two words: “VREMIA” (time) and “MIR” (peace). “Vremir” was a registered trademark of Timepeaces Russian Watches Inc. in 1991. This detail on the case back is a sort of nod to the company’s name.

This series also had documents in Russian, indicating they were sold both in the United States and in Russia. The number of units produced remains unknown.

russian watch Vostok Komandirskie Operation Desert Shield
Vostok Komandirskie Operation Desert Shield
“Cadet” Model

Another popular model is the 34 mm Cadet model, distinctive for the inscription on the dial “Desert Shield” on the left semicircle and “Desert Storm” on the right semicircle, instead of “Operation Desert Shield,” indicating a design developed after 1991.

The case is the “Cadet” model, measuring 34 mm, with spear-shaped hands for the hours and minutes. The movement is the 2409A, 17 jewels with manual winding. The case back bears the Timepeace logo and the words “Vremir,” “USSR,” “Watertight 50m,” “17 jewels,” “Shockproof,” “SS back,” and a six-digit serial number.

This model often appears in small cases with standard Vostok case backs and is included in a 1993 Vostok catalog.

Other Versions

Browsing the internet or exploring flea markets, you can find Vostok Desert Shield watches with variations from the described models. These might have different case backs, more similar to standard Vostok designs, or dials with the Vostok “B” logo. It is believed that Vostok had a surplus of dials and assembled watches using different Komandirskie or Amphibia cases from the 420. These versions featured the “B” logo and used different cases or movements depending on the period.

Vympel Version

A very special version of the Desert Shield is known with the inscription Alcor Vostok (Алькор Восток) on the case back, a model that at first glance might seem like a fake made with a standard Chinese Tongji calibre, but several elements suggest authentic production, albeit bizarre.

This model is often attributed to the Belarusian factory Vitebsk Instrument-Making Plant, known for using standard Chinese Tongji calibres for its production. The attention to detail and the presence of Vostok logos on the calibre, dial, and case back suggest that, for some particular reason, the production was requested by Vostok. The case design suggests a Vympel, a brand that often used standard Chinese Tongji calibres for its production.

russian watch Vympel Vostok Operation Desert Shield
Vympel Vostok Operation Desert Shield

Modern Versions and Legacy

The Vostok Desert Shield has been honoured several times, with modern and contemporary models updated following new Vostok productions. The museum in Chistopol, where the Vostok factory is located, displays two examples of the Desert Shield, indicating its historical and commercial importance.

Despite its commercial origins, the Vostok Desert Shield is a fascinating artefact, reflecting a combination of history, marketing, and craftsmanship. Its history, linked to the Gulf War and the cultural exchange between the USA and the USSR, continues to capture the attention of watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide.

Faithful Transcript of the Article

Beverly, Mass, Monday, January 28, 1991

Company’s imported Russian watch commends Operation Desert Shield

By KELLEY BOUCHARD
Times staff

BEVERLY – Timepeace Russian Watches Inc., a Hale Street inport company that formed a year ago, is selling a watch made in the Soviet Union to commemorate Operation Desert Shield.

In the last month, the company already has given away about 300 of the 10,000 limited edition Russian military watches to troops stationed in Saudi Arabia.

Timepeace CEO Bruce Erikson, who runs the company out of his Hale Street home, is saving the first Operation Desert Shield watch made to personally present to President Bush in the future.

“Operation Desert Shield gave peace a chance,” says Erikson, who runs Timepeace with partners Bruce Corwin and W. Edgar Cornish. “America has emerged as the peace-keeping force in the world. Part of a peaceful world order is stopping an aggressor like Saddam Hussein.”

Erikson’s company is promoting the $149 watch among veterans group publications and in various upscale department stores as a way to show support for American soldiers fighting in the Middle East and their families at home.

Designed by the Flag Research Center in Winchester, the face of the Operation Desert Shield watch features an American flag, a palm tree and crossed sabers.

While Erikson admits the outbreak of war in the Persian Gulf was an unfortunate turn of events, he points out one opportunity it presents for many Americans.

“It’s an opportunity for some people to relive the Vietnam experience in a better way,” Erikson says. “People have come to understand the importance of supporting a war effort at home.”

Erikson was introduced to the high quality of Russian watches last year when he and his wife, Lynne, visited the Soviet Union as chaperons with a group from the Hamilton-Wenham Regional High School chorus.

When he returned, Erikson and the partners in the investment company he also runs out of his home began importing watches as Timepeace Russian Watches Inc.

Erikson’s new company would not only fan the embers of free enterprise in the Soviet Union, but also take advantage of what the 43-year-old entrepreneur considers one of Russia’s best-kept secrets.

It’s kind of a secret the Russians have because they have been cut off from the rest of the world for so long.

Beverly, Mass, Monday, January 28, 1991

The Amphibia Revolution: The Invention of Soviet Waterproof Watches

Michail Fëdorovič Novikov e Vera Fëdorovna Belova, sviluppatori degli orologi Amphibia.

This is an interview with Novikov and Belova, the inventors and developers of the Amphibia project.

Mikhail Fyodorovich Novikov and Vera Fyodorovna Belova, Developers of the Amphibia Watches

The developers of the Amphibia watches, Mikhail Fyodorovich Novikov and Vera Fyodorovna Belova. Image from a video by Vyacheslav Medvedev.

Michail Fëdorovič Novikov e Vera Fëdorovna Belova, sviluppatori degli orologi Amphibia.
Gli sviluppatori degli orologi Amphibia Michail Fëdorovič Novikov e Vera Fëdorovna Belova. Immagine tratta dal video di Vjačeslav Medvedev.

In 1967, a peculiar event caught the attention of many: a “Volga” car drove over a watch. This was not an accident but a public demonstration of the extraordinary capabilities of the Amphibia, the first Soviet waterproof watch. The article describes this moment as follows:

«…10 …7 …5. Неумолимо, метр за метром движется колесо машины. Затаив дыхание, застыли люди. Что же будет? … Три … метр и, наконец, произошло то, чего с таким любопытством ожидал собравшийся здесь народ: колесо «Волги» переехало… часы» (…10 …7 …5. Relentlessly, metre by metre, the car’s wheel moves forward. People hold their breath, motionless. What will happen? … Three … metres and, finally, what the crowd gathered here was so curiously expecting happened: the wheel of the Volga ran over… the watch.)

The creators of the Amphibia, Mikhail Novikov and Vera Belova, tell us about the genesis and peculiarities of this revolutionary watch. Novikov, then head of the New Developments Bureau, was tasked with designing a watch that could compete with the best foreign models, ensuring reliable operation up to 200 metres in depth and resistance to significant variations in pressure and temperature.

Novikov M.F.:

“The challenge was to develop a watch that was not inferior to foreign models and that ensured reliable operation up to a depth of 200 metres, in conditions of great pressure and temperature variations. The name ‘Amphibia’ was chosen through an internal competition, representing a being that feels at home both in water and on land.”

The design of the Amphibia required the adoption of innovative technical solutions to avoid patent issues and to overcome the limitations of the available technology. For example, the watch glass was designed with a special profile to withstand extreme pressures, while the rubber gasket was developed with highly specific materials to ensure perfect watertightness.

Belova V.F.:

“The glass of the Amphibia is thicker than normal: 3 mm compared to the 2 mm of the ‘Komandirskie’ watches. Not only are the thickness and configuration different, but the manufacturing process is also special. The glass is polished to ensure a perfect seal under high pressure.”

Belova emphasises that the processing of the Amphibia glass required extreme precision, with a production process that included polishing to ensure the absence of any imperfections. The watch case’s resistance was further enhanced using stainless steel, a material that was not common for this type of application in the USSR at the time.

Novikov M.F.:

“It seemed that we could simply copy foreign models, but many of their solutions were patented. Moreover, our equipment could not guarantee the necessary precision. We had to find solutions that were just as effective but without infringing existing patents.”

The Amphibia was not just a water-resistant watch; it was an engineering masterpiece. Every detail, from the rubber gasket to the stainless steel case, was designed to overcome the toughest challenges. Novikov and Belova, with their dedication and innovation, managed to create a watch that would mark an era.

In addition to the civilian version, a military version of the Amphibia, called the NVCH-30, was developed for Soviet Navy divers. These models were subjected to rigorous tests of resistance and operation, including drills simulating sea rescue scenarios.

Belova V.F.:

“These watches were tested with very rigorous programmes. Even the strap had to pass extreme resistance tests. The strap’s connection to the NVCH-30 looked a bit strange but was extremely robust.”

The legacy of the Amphibia lives on today as a symbol of innovative engineering and durability. Novikov and Belova, with their vision and expertise, have left an indelible mark on the history of watchmaking.

The Birth of Soviet Watchmaking: From Dueber-Hampden to Russian Horology

The Birth of Soviet Watchmaking: Continuing the Hampden Story - Updated Edition by Alan F. Garratt

At this web address, you can download the PDF in English: https://www.hampdenwatches.com/it/extra

Updated Edition Preface (Page 1)

The necessity for an updated edition highlights the gaps in this intriguing story. New information has surfaced, provided by readers, descendants, and enthusiasts. Although it doesn’t fill in all the details, this second edition takes the story a step further, offering additional insights into many characters.

The preface aims to introduce the social and political environment during the rush to industrialization, which inevitably impacted watch factories. Workers’ power influenced production and quality, evident from Gershenzon’s articles and various “Udarnik” movements. In this workers’ paradise, new practices revealed organizational shortcomings and managerial excuses. Even unavoidable errors could have tragic consequences.

Not all Americans were allowed to return after their contracts expired, despite reports from Canton suggesting otherwise. The detailed account of Herman London’s involvement, greatly facilitated by his family, opens up new aspects of this story.

Introduction (Pages 5-6)

You might be reading this for various reasons—perhaps from my story about the Hampden Watch Company before 1930 or an interest in old Russian watches. Regardless, welcome, and I hope you find the story intriguing.

The genre of Soviet horology is enormous, and its origins are crucial. My story focuses on these origins and the contribution of the Dueber-Hampden Watch Works staff, tools, and designs to the USSR, perpetuating Hampden’s legacy.

In 2006, I started investigating the fate of the Canton factory and found limited information, often incorrect and misleading. The subject of the USSR still evokes stereotypical views in the West and defensiveness in former Soviet countries. Neither perspective helps when examining past events.

This story started as a blog in 2008 and grew as new information emerged. Much content is previously unpublished, but I also draw from familiar sources. Until definitive documentation from Russian sources surfaces, early Soviet watch production remains speculative.

The story spans significant world events, from the Great Depression, through Stalin’s purges, to WWII and the Cold War. This content doesn’t aim to condone or condemn, merely to tell a story about watches and people.

Foreword (Pages 7-12)

By 1886, John C. Dueber, a German-born naturalized American industrialist, faced land acquisition issues in Newport, Kentucky. He needed space for his thriving watch case business and the newly acquired Hampden company, located in Springfield, Massachusetts. Dueber announced that if a city or town raised $100,000 in ‘gift money,’ he would move his companies, bringing 1,500 to 2,000 employees, significantly boosting the local population.

Canton, Ohio, seized the opportunity. Canton, founded in 1805 and the administrative center of Stark County in northeastern Ohio, was in economic hardship. In the 1880s, its largest employer, C. Aultman & Co., faced an uncertain future and had cut workers’ wages by 10%, causing severe hardship. Dueber’s proposal was providential, offering new employment opportunities.

The foreword briefly outlines the period before and after the Dueber-Hampden works closed in Canton, just before the Great Depression, and its impact on employment. It also describes the Moscow environment where the Canton equipment was relocated, with insights from historical and sociological experts.

1917 – 1930 (Pages 13-19)

The chapter outlines the period from the Russian Revolution in 1917 to 1930, covering significant events like the establishment of the Soviet Union and early industrialization efforts. It emphasizes the challenges and achievements in setting up the first Soviet watch factories, detailing the purchase and relocation of Dueber-Hampden equipment to Moscow.

The Soviet commission, including Bodrov and others, explored purchasing equipment from Europe and America. They faced resistance in Europe but succeeded in America, leading to the acquisition of Hampden equipment. The Soviets aimed to create a self-sufficient watch industry, aligning with their ideological goals.

The People (Pages 20-26)

The chapter introduces key figures in the story of Soviet watchmaking, including Andrey Mikhailovich Bodrov, Heinrich Kann, and Vladimir Osipovich “Wolf” Pruss. Each individual played a crucial role in the establishment and development of the Soviet watch industry.

  • Andrey Mikhailovich Bodrov was instrumental in the industrialization efforts and establishment of the First State Watch Factory.
  • Heinrich Kann, a prominent pre-revolutionary watchmaker, contributed significantly to Soviet watchmaking and education.
  • Vladimir Osipovich “Wolf” Pruss, a skilled watchmaker with a background in socialist movements, helped train new watchmakers in the USSR.

The Dueber-Hampden Purchase (Pages 27-35)

During the commission’s visit to America, pragmatism prevailed, leading to the purchase of the bankrupt Dueber-Hampden and Ansonia Clock Co. plants. The Soviets, through Amtorg, bought patterns, machinery, tools, and stock, which were crucial for establishing the Soviet watch industry.

The chapter details the journey of 23 former Dueber-Hampden watchmakers to Moscow to train Soviet workers. These American specialists helped set up the new factory, train workers, and initiate production. Despite initial challenges, their contributions were significant in laying the foundation for Soviet watchmaking.

The First State Watch Factory (Pages 36-52)

The chapter describes the establishment of the First State Watch Factory, located on the site of a former tobacco factory in Moscow. The factory’s construction began in February 1930 and was completed by June 1930, with the main equipment installed by September 1930.

By November 7, 1930, the factory produced its first 50 pocket watches, presented at a ceremonial meeting. The watches were based on the Hampden Size 16 movement and became the foundation for Soviet watch production. The factory’s success marked a significant milestone in Soviet industrialization.

Other Type-1 Factories (Pages 53-58)

The chapter explores other factories producing Type-1 watches, similar to those made at the First State Watch Factory. These factories were part of the broader effort to establish a self-sufficient Soviet watch industry. The chapter highlights the challenges and successes of these factories, their production methods, and their contributions to Soviet horology.

Artels (Pages 59-63)

Artels were cooperative workshops that played a crucial role in Soviet watch production. The chapter details how these workshops operated, their organization, and their contributions to the industry. Artels were essential in meeting the increasing demand for watches in the USSR.

Diverse Type-1 Timepieces (Pages 64-66)

The chapter showcases various Type-1 timepieces produced by Soviet factories. These watches, based on the Hampden designs, were known for their robustness, accuracy, and reliability. The chapter provides an overview of the different models and their features, highlighting their significance in Soviet horology.

Lip And The Post War Period (Pages 67-71)

The chapter discusses the collaboration between the Soviet Union and the French watch company Lip during the post-war period. In 1936, Lip faced financial difficulties and signed a deal with the USSR to export technology and parts. This collaboration helped modernize Soviet watch production, introducing new designs and techniques.

Fakes And Frankens (Pages 72-73)

The chapter addresses the issue of counterfeit and modified watches, known as “fakes” and “frankens,” in the Soviet watch market. It discusses how these watches were created, their impact on the market, and how to identify genuine Soviet timepieces.

Amtorg (Pages 74-75)

Amtorg was the Soviet trade organization responsible for purchasing equipment and technology from the West. The chapter details Amtorg’s role in acquiring the Dueber-Hampden equipment and other essential machinery for Soviet watch production. Amtorg’s efforts were crucial in establishing a modern watch industry in the USSR.

An American Worker In A Moscow Factory (Pages 76-78)

The chapter narrates the experiences of American workers in Soviet factories. It highlights the challenges they faced, their contributions to the Soviet watch industry, and the cultural exchange between American and Soviet workers. The chapter provides personal anecdotes and insights into their daily lives in Moscow.

American Watchmaker Trapped In The USSR Since 1934 (Pages 79-80)

This chapter tells the story of an American watchmaker who became trapped in the USSR after 1934. It explores the circumstances that led to his situation, his experiences, and the broader implications of such cases during the Soviet era.

Russia: An Awakening Horological Giant (Pages 81-83)

The final chapter reflects on Russia’s emergence as a significant player in the global watch industry. It highlights the achievements of the Soviet watch industry, its impact on the global market, and its legacy. The chapter concludes with a discussion on the future of Russian horology and its potential for growth.

A Brief History of Watchmaking Art (1926 – G. Kann)

Copertina di "Breve storia dell'arte orologiera" di Genrich Kann

Original Title: Краткая история часового искусства

Year of Publication: 1926

Book Chapters

1. От автора (From the Author)

The author dedicates his work to Ivan Petrovich Kulibin, a talented Russian self-taught mechanic. Born in 1735, Kulibin showed an early passion for mechanics, building clocks and other complex devices with simple tools. His dedication and skill led him to construct a complex clock that caught the attention of Empress Catherine II, who generously rewarded him. Despite adversities, Kulibin continued to innovate until his death in 1818.

Trivia:

  • Kulibin built his first clock without professional tools, using only a knife.
  • The clock presented to Catherine II was egg-shaped and depicted a scene of Christ’s resurrection.
  • After impressing Catherine II, Kulibin was appointed to the Academy of Sciences with an annual salary.

2. Введение (Introduction)

The author discusses the lack of extensive literature on watchmaking in Russia compared to the West and hopes that his work will spark interest in this art. The text is inspired by a brochure distributed at the German Watchmakers’ Conference in 1925.

Trivia:

  • The author uses works from various European horology experts, including Ernst von Bassermann-Jordan and Claudius Saunier.
  • The book is dedicated to the memory of Kulibin, seen as a model of ingenuity and perseverance.
  • Western horological literature is much more developed than its Russian counterpart, with numerous specialized journals and watchmaking schools.

3. Точное определение времени (Precise Time Measurement)

This chapter explores various methods developed to measure time accurately, including astronomical clocks and synchronization based on the movements of the earth and celestial bodies. It describes how observing stars can help regulate clocks with incredible precision.

Trivia:

  • Astronomical clocks can measure time with precision up to hundredths of a second.
  • Time signals were transmitted internationally via radio stations to synchronize clocks in different locations.
  • Berlin used a telegraph signal system to synchronize the clocks of railway stations.

4. Искровая станция Наузн (Spark Station of Nauzen)

Describes the Nauzen radiotelegraph station, used to transmit global time signals, aiding the international synchronization of clocks. The Nauzen station represents a significant step in the evolution of precise time transmission.

Trivia:

  • The Nauzen station began its modern operations in 1920.
  • Time signals transmitted from Nauzen were used for precise clock adjustments worldwide.
  • The station was equipped with two transmission towers, each 260 meters high.

5. Измерители времени в древности (Time Measurement in Antiquity)

The chapter traces the evolution of time-measuring devices from ancient sundials to more complex water and sand clocks. It examines how ancient civilizations used shadows and other techniques to keep track of time.

Trivia:

  • Sundials were used as early as 2679 BC by the Chinese.
  • The first water clocks included complex mechanisms that indicated the hours even at night.
  • Sand clocks, also known as hourglasses, were used for both daily purposes and in courtrooms to limit the duration of speeches.

6. Первые колесные часы с тормазом (The First Wheel Clocks with Brake)

Examines the invention of mechanical wheel clocks, attributed to Pope Sylvester II (Gerbert of Aurillac) around 1000 AD. These clocks represent a significant technological development in the evolution of time measurement.

Trivia:

  • Mechanical wheel clocks represented a huge advance over previous time-measuring devices.
  • The accuracy of these clocks was improved compared to water and sand models.
  • The first public mechanical clock was installed in Milan in 1335.

7. Башенные часы (Tower Clocks)

Describes the development of tower clocks in Europe, highlighting notable examples such as the clock of Strasbourg Cathedral. These clocks not only marked the time but also became works of art and prestige symbols for cities.

Trivia:

  • The Strasbourg Cathedral clock is considered one of the seven wonders of the mechanical world.
  • These clocks were often adorned with animated figures that moved every hour.
  • Cities competed to have the most complex and beautiful tower clocks, often employing the best craftsmen of the time.

8. Карл V часовщик (Charles V the Watchmaker)

This chapter recounts Charles V’s passion for watchmaking and his personal contributions to creating and repairing clocks. After abdicating the throne, Charles V devoted himself entirely to this passion.

Trivia:

  • Charles V abdicated the throne to devote himself to monastic life and watchmaking.
  • He worked with the famous watchmaker Juanelo Turriano to create complex and precise clocks.
  • Charles V found in watchmaking a relief and refuge from the heavy duties of state.

9. Изобретение карманных часов (Invention of Pocket Watches)

Covers the invention of pocket watches, attributed to the Nuremberg locksmith Peter Henlein in the 16th century. These watches brought time measurement to a more personal and portable level.

Trivia:

  • The first pocket watches were known as “Nuremberg eggs” due to their shape and size.
  • These watches revolutionized timekeeping, making it portable and accessible.
  • Henlein was able to miniaturize the complex mechanisms of clocks, making them suitable for pocket use.

10. Морской хронометр (Marine Chronometer)

Explains the importance of the marine chronometer for navigation and how the Englishman John Harrison solved the longitude problem with his precise chronometers. Marine chronometers were crucial for the safety and efficiency of ocean navigation.

Trivia:

  • Harrison’s chronometer could measure time with unprecedented accuracy during long sea voyages.
  • Harrison received a significant prize from the British government for his contribution to navigation.
  • His invention allowed navigators to determine their longitude with great precision, reducing the risk of shipwrecks.

11. Последовательные усовершенствования карманных часов (Subsequent Improvements of Pocket Watches)

Describes the various improvements made to pocket watches, including self-winding mechanisms and new materials for greater precision. Technical evolution continued to improve the accuracy and reliability of pocket watches.

Trivia:

  • Self-winding watches eliminated the need to use a key for winding.
  • The accuracy of pocket watches continued to improve with the introduction of new materials like the Breguet balance spring.
  • Some high-quality pocket watches included complications such as perpetual calendars and moon phases.

12. Изобретение маятника (Invention of the Pendulum)

Explores the importance of the pendulum’s invention for improving the accuracy of clocks, attributed to Galileo Galilei and later perfected by Christiaan Huygens. The pendulum represented a revolution in precise time measurement.

Trivia:

  • Galileo first noticed the isochronous properties of the pendulum by observing a swinging chandelier in the Pisa Cathedral.
  • Huygens developed the first precise pendulum clock, drastically improving time measurement.
  • Pendulum clocks quickly became the standard for accuracy and were widely used in astronomical observatories.

13. Новый уровень выработки часов в девятнадцатом столетии и подъем их производства в настоящее время (New Level of Watchmaking in the 19th Century and the Rise of Current Production)

Discussion on the industrial growth of watchmaking in the 19th century and its development until the early 20th century. Industrialization allowed for mass production of watches, making them more accessible to the public.

Trivia:

  • Technological innovations of the 19th century allowed for more efficient and mass production of watches.
  • Watch factories in Switzerland and Germany became world leaders in producing high-quality watches.
  • Mass production reduced costs and made watches more accessible to a wider audience.

14. Типы изящных современных карманных и браслетных часов (Types of Elegant Modern Pocket and Wrist Watches)

Describes the various styles and types of pocket and wrist watches that became popular in the early 20th century. The evolution of design and technology made watches not only precision instruments but also fashion accessories.

Trivia:

  • Wristwatches began to surpass pocket watches in popularity due to their practicality.
  • Innovative designs and the use of precious materials made these watches not only precision instruments but also fashion accessories.
  • Some wristwatches of the era included functions such as chronographs and moon phase indications.

15. Часовая промышленность в Шварцвальде (Watch Industry in the Black Forest)

Explores the watchmaking industry in the Black Forest, famous for its cuckoo clocks and high-quality craftsmanship. The region is renowned for its horological tradition and the craftsmanship of its products.

Trivia:

  • Black Forest cuckoo clocks are famous worldwide for their craftsmanship and unique design.
  • The region has a long tradition of watchmaking dating back to the 18th century.
  • Black Forest watchmakers were known for their skill in creating intricate and decorated clocks.

16. Фабрика Юнгганс в Шрамберге (Junghans Factory in Schramberg)

Description of the Junghans factory and its contribution to modern watchmaking, emphasizing mass production and technical innovation. Junghans has become one of the leading watch companies in Germany.

Trivia:

  • Junghans was founded in 1861 and quickly became one of the world’s largest watch manufacturers.
  • The factory introduced many innovations, including new production methods and modern designs.
  • Junghans was known for producing precise and reliable watches, including chronographs and wristwatches.

17. Фабрикация карманных часов в Пруссии (Manufacturing of Pocket Watches in Prussia)

Analysis of the production of pocket watches in Prussia and the region’s role in the development of European watchmaking. Prussia was an important centre of watchmaking in the 19th century.

Trivia:

  • Prussia was a significant centre for producing high-quality watches during the 19th century.
  • Many Prussian watchmakers were known for their craftsmanship and attention to detail.
  • Watchmaking production in Prussia significantly contributed to the local economy and the region’s reputation as a centre of horological excellence.

18. Часовая фабрика Адольфа Ланге с сыновьями в Гласхютте в Саксонии (Adolf Lange & Söhne Watch Factory in Glashütte, Saxony)

Explores the history of the Adolf Lange & Söhne watch factory, founded in 1845 and famous for its precision watches. Lange & Söhne is one of the most respected names in high-end watchmaking.

Trivia:

  • Adolf Lange is considered one of the founding fathers of the German watchmaking industry.
  • His watches are still regarded as among the best in the world for their precision and quality.
  • The Lange & Söhne factory has overcome many difficulties, including the devastation of World War II, to maintain its reputation for excellence.

19. Электрические часы (Electric Clocks)

Describes the introduction and development of electric clocks, one of the most significant innovations of the 20th century. Electric clocks revolutionized the watchmaking industry with their precision and ease of use.

Trivia:

  • Electric clocks revolutionized the watchmaking industry with their precision and ease of use.
  • The technology enabled the development of globally synchronized clocks.
  • Electric clocks were the forerunners of quartz clocks, which further improved accuracy and reduced production costs.

20. Германская школа часовщиков в Гласхютте в Саксонии (German Watchmaking School in Glashütte, Saxony)

Analysis of the training and education of watchmakers at the Glashütte school, an important institution for German watchmaking. The Glashütte school has trained many of the world’s best watchmakers.

Trivia:

  • The school was founded to raise the standards of training for German watchmakers.
  • Many of the world’s best watchmakers received their training in Glashütte.
  • The Glashütte school is known for its academic rigor and attention to the technical and artistic details of watchmaking.

21. Часовое искусство в нашей Республике (Watchmaking Art in Our Republic)

Discussion on the state of watchmaking art in the Soviet Republic and the challenges faced by the industry. Despite economic and political difficulties, the Russian watchmaking industry continued to develop and innovate.

Trivia:

  • Despite economic difficulties, Russia continued to develop its watchmaking industry.
  • The author emphasizes the need to support local craftsmen and improve access to modern resources and technologies.
  • The Soviet government recognized the importance of watchmaking as a symbol of technological progress and invested in training and research programs.

This article offers a detailed overview of each chapter of G. Kann’s book “Краткая история часового искусства,” revealing the fascinating history and technical evolutions of watchmaking.

4o

History of the ‘Slava’ Watch Factory in Moscow: A Journey Through Time

Orologio da polso vintage sovietico con la fabbrica di orologi Slava di Mosca sullo sfondo.

Original title of the book: История часового завода Слава – В.Г. Богданов, 2002

Chapter 1: On the Measurement of Time in Russia

Description: The first chapter explores the origins of timekeeping in Russia, tracing back to the first tower clocks installed in Russian cities. It describes how these clocks were initially created by local craftsmen and gradually began to be imported from abroad. The narrative transitions from primitive timekeeping methods, such as sundials and water clocks, to the spread of mechanical clocks during the Middle Ages. It includes details about the first watch factories in Russia, established during the reign of Catherine II, and the challenges faced in maintaining stable and high-quality production.

Details:

  • The first tower clock in Russia was installed in 1404 by a monk named Lazar Serbin.
  • The Moscow watch factory, established in 1769, produced clocks often used as awards and official gifts.
  • In the 16th century, mechanical clocks began to spread in churches and cathedrals, becoming symbols of prestige and advanced technology.
  • The accuracy of clocks improved significantly due to advancements in astronomy and mechanics.

Chapter 2: The Need for a National Watch Industry

Description: This chapter highlights the crisis in the Russian watch industry during the World Wars and the revolution. With the interruption of imports and the closure of existing factories, the need to establish a national industry emerged. Efforts to reorganise existing resources and create new production facilities are described, along with attempts to import technology from abroad.

Details:

  • In 1920, the Soviet Union created an agency dedicated to managing watch production, called the “Watch Agency”.
  • During the 1920s and 1930s, the factory purchased machinery from the United States to initiate domestic watch production.
  • Efforts to train skilled personnel were intensified, with the establishment of technical schools and training programmes.

Chapter 3: The History of the Second Moscow Watch Factory – 75 Years on the Market

Description: This chapter details the history of the Second Moscow Watch Factory (2MChZ) from its founding in 1924 to modern times. It describes the evolution of production technologies, the materials used, and the various challenges faced by workers during times of war and peace. The factory is depicted as a symbol of Soviet industrial innovation.

Details:

  • The factory was initially founded as part of the Technical Military Department of the RKKA.
  • In 1930, the factory began producing alarm clocks with components imported from Germany.
  • The factory was a major supplier of watches for the Soviet army during World War II.
  • In the 1950s and 1960s, the factory expanded and modernised, introducing new models and technologies.

Chapter 4: The Early Successes

Description: Describes the early years of the factory, focusing on efforts to increase production and improve the quality of watches. It details the technical and logistical difficulties faced, such as material shortages and the need to train new workers. The chapter includes testimonies from workers and managers who contributed to the company’s initial success.

Details:

  • In 1930, the factory produced 144,000 alarm clocks and 628,000 wall clocks despite numerous initial difficulties.
  • Factory managers implemented innovative production systems to increase efficiency.
  • Staff training was a priority, with intensive on-the-job learning programmes.
  • Production techniques relied on imported machinery and optimised processes for maximum efficiency.

Chapter 5: All for the Front, All for Victory

Description: During World War II, the factory’s production shifted towards military utility goods. The chapter describes the reorganisation of production and the factory’s significant contribution to Soviet war efforts. It highlights how the factory had to quickly adapt to new requirements, producing instruments and equipment for the army.

Details:

  • The factory produced magnets for explosives and devices for parachute deployment.
  • Despite wartime difficulties, the factory maintained constant high-quality production.
  • Many factory workers were awarded for their contributions to the war effort.
  • Watch production decreased, but technological innovation continued, preparing the ground for post-war recovery.

Chapter 6: Return to Civil Production

Description: The chapter describes the post-war period, during which the factory gradually returned to producing watches for civilian use. It includes details on the modernisation of facilities and the introduction of new technologies. It explores how the factory reinvented itself to meet new market demands.

Details:

  • In the 1950s, the factory introduced the first Soviet chronometer, marking a significant advancement in precision and reliability.
  • Production diversified to include wristwatches, wall clocks, and pocket watches.
  • The factory became a symbol of economic revival and technological innovation.
  • New production processes were implemented to improve quality and reduce costs.

Chapter 7: The Period of Decline

Description: Examines the years of economic difficulties and declining production faced by the factory during the late Soviet period and early post-Soviet years. Despite challenges, the factory continued to produce watches, maintaining a significant market share. Attempts at restructuring and modernisation to cope with new economic realities are discussed.

Details:

  • In the late 1990s, the factory received congratulations from the President of Russia and the Mayor of Moscow for its 75th anniversary.
  • It describes how the factory tried to adapt to global market changes.
  • Efforts to maintain product quality and reliability were constant despite financial difficulties.
  • Attempts to diversify production and develop new markets are explored.

Chapter 8: Conclusion and Appendices

Description: The conclusion summarises the achievements and challenges of the “Slava” watch factory. It includes a reflection on the historical importance of the factory and the future of the watch industry in Russia. The appendices offer additional technical details, production statistics, and a bibliography. Individual successes of workers and technological innovations introduced are also mentioned.

Details:

  • An appendix section is dedicated to the individual successes of factory workers, many of whom received state awards for their contributions.
  • Detailed production statistics and various models of watches produced are provided.
  • The factory is presented as an example of resilience and innovation in the Russian industrial landscape.
  • The appendices also include historical documents and photographs illustrating the factory’s evolution.

Index and Detailed Description of the Chapters of the book “From the History of the Development of the Watchmaking Industry in Russia” by Olga Nikolaevna Melnikova

Historical depiction of the watchmaking industry in Russia with early mechanical clocks, workshops, factories, and landmarks like the Kremlin.

Introduction – Page 3

In the introduction, the author sets the historical context of watchmaking in Russia, emphasizing its significance in the country’s industrial evolution. The research’s purpose is explained to better understand the role of horology in Russia’s socio-economic development from the 18th century to the early 20th century. The author outlines the primary objectives of the study, the methodologies used, and the importance of this sector in the realm of technology and industrial production. An intriguing aspect highlighted is how the perception and measurement of time influenced not only daily life but also Russia’s technological and scientific progress.

Prima pagina del libro di Olga Nikolaevna Melnikova sulla storia della produzione di orologi in Russia
Prima pagina del libro di Olga Nikolaevna Melnikova intitolato “Из истории развития часового производства в России”, pubblicato dalla Biblioteca Statale Russa nel 2005.

Section One: The Emergence and Development of Watchmaking in Russia. The Role of Industrial Exhibitions in Enhancing the Skills of Russian Watchmakers.

Chapter 1: The Beginning of Watch Production and Watchmaking Workshops in Various Regions of Russia – Page 25

This chapter provides a detailed historical overview of the early stages of watch production in Russia, starting with the introduction of the first mechanical clocks, focusing on tower clocks installed in the 15th century. The role of early watchmakers and the influence of technologies imported from Western Europe are explored. The author describes how these initial time measurement instruments led to a significant change in the perception of time and the organization of daily life.

Origins and Spread:

The chapter analyses the origins of mechanical clocks in Europe and their introduction to Russia. An interesting fact is that the first tower clocks installed in Russia in the 15th century were gifts from foreign diplomats.

Early Tower Clocks:

This section describes tower clocks installed in various public and religious buildings and their cultural significance. For example, the early tower clocks in the Moscow Kremlin served not only to measure time but also as instruments of political and religious prestige.

Regional Workshops:

This part examines the first watchmaking workshops in different Russian regions, including the cities of Moscow and Saint Petersburg, and the influence of foreign masters. A specific point of interest is how Moscow became a center of excellence through the importation of European technologies and expertise.

Chapter 2: Watch Production in State and Private Factories in Russia (18th – early 20th century) – Page 73

In this chapter, the author examines the role of state factories and private enterprises in watch production during the period in question. The evolution of watch factories, work organization, and technological innovations implemented are analyzed.

State Factories:

The study looks into state factories founded under the reign of Catherine II, focusing on their organizational structure and the products made. An interesting point is that many of these factories initially aimed at producing watches for the aristocracy and government.

Private Enterprises:

This section analyses the development of private factories and artisanal cooperatives, including production methods and challenges faced, such as foreign competition. It is noteworthy how private enterprises often collaborated with local craftsmen to improve product quality.

Craftsmanship and Technology:

The techniques of production and technological innovation in workshops and factories are examined, focusing on materials, tools, and design. A specific point is the use of local materials and traditional techniques combined with modern innovations to create unique watches.

Section Two: Characteristics and Problems of the Development of Russian Watchmaking in the 18th – early 20th century.

Chapter 3: Import of Watchmaking Products and Its Impact on Russian Production – Page 121

This chapter focuses on the influence of foreign watch imports on the Russian market and local production. It explores how the influx of foreign products prompted Russian manufacturers to improve quality and adopt new technologies.

Initial Imports:

The history of the first watch imports to Russia and their impact on the domestic market is discussed. An interesting fact is that some of the most valuable watches imported to Russia came from Switzerland and Germany.

Foreign Competition:

This section analyses the competitive dynamics between Russian producers and foreign companies and the strategies adopted by Russians to remain competitive. A specific point is the adoption of advanced technologies and innovative designs to compete with foreign manufacturers.

Technological Adaptation:

The discussion here focuses on how Russian producers incorporated foreign technologies and designs to improve their products. It’s interesting to note how international fairs and exhibitions facilitated the acquisition of new technologies.

Chapter 4: Training Qualified Personnel for Watch Production – Page 159

The fourth chapter examines the methods of training and educational institutions dedicated to preparing qualified watchmakers. The author discusses the importance of artisanal schools, academies, and government initiatives to develop specialized skills in watchmaking.

Initial Training:

This section explores the early training programs for watchmakers and their evolution over time. An interesting fact is that many watchmaking schools were founded with direct support from the Tsar and the aristocracy.

Educational Institutions:

Details are provided about the schools and academies that played a crucial role in training qualified watchmakers, including curriculums and teaching methodologies. A specific point is the use of practical laboratories and apprenticeships to ensure comprehensive training.

Foreign Influence on Training:

The discussion here focuses on how foreign masters contributed to the training of local talents and the transfer of technological knowledge. It’s interesting how some of the best Russian watchmakers studied abroad before returning home to contribute to the local industry.

Conclusion – Page 174

The conclusion summarizes the main findings of the research, highlighting the historical importance of watch production in Russia and its contribution to the country’s industrial progress. The author offers a critical reflection on the results obtained and suggests future directions for further studies in this field. An interesting point is the author’s prediction about the future of the Russian watchmaking industry, emphasizing the potential for revival thanks to new technologies and the growing demand for high-quality products.

Bibliography – Page 184

The final section of the book provides a detailed list of sources and works cited in the research, offering a valuable resource for those wishing to further explore the history of watch production in Russia. An interesting point is the breadth of sources used, including archival documents, contemporary publications, and materials from industrial exhibitions.

Chapter 1: The Beginning of Watch Production and Watchmaking Workshops in Various Regions of Russia

Watch production in Russia, more than other industries, reflects the country’s economic prosperity and its integration into global production. Typically, the production of time-measuring instruments is considered part of the mechanical sector. Many mechanics working in various areas of mechanics were initially watchmakers.

As civilization developed, time-measuring instruments became increasingly necessary in people’s daily lives. Consequently, the number of watches produced increased, as did the variety of types and fields of application, creating the conditions for the opening of new workshops and factories.

Origins and Spread

The invention of watches contributed to a significant change in collective consciousness: the dominance of space during the medieval period was gradually replaced by measurable time and its mechanical producer, the clock. Watches are often called the “archetype” of all measuring instruments, a “product” of primitive mechanics that, according to American scholar Lewis Mumford, “synchronized human reactions not with the rising and setting of the sun, but with the movement of the clock hands.”

The regularity of this movement is conventionally accepted as the movement of time, and the regularity of intervals on the scale allows this uniform movement to be transformed into points on the scale to which numerical values can be assigned. Essentially, watches do not measure time but transform uniform and homogeneous movement into a system of points associated with numbers.

Production in Various Regions

In Saint Petersburg, for example, there was a strong scientific and production base: the Instrument Chamber of the Academy of Sciences, the Instrument and Watch Classes of the Academy of Fine Arts, whose activities greatly contributed to the development of domestic instrumentation. Additionally, these cities hosted productions close to watchmaking, such as precision mechanics, like weapons production. In the Tula and Sestroretsk arms factories, besides producing victorious weapons, domestic items, locks, scales, boxes, sewing machines, and scientific instruments were also made.

These were areas with developed metallurgical industries, such as the Demidov factories in the Urals in Nizhny Tagil and Ekaterinburg. Specimens from the GIM (State Historical Museum) collections testify that watch production was established in cities located at the crossroads of trade routes, such as Astrakhan and Arkhangelsk. The largest and most developed centers of watch production in the 18th-19th centuries were Moscow and Saint Petersburg.

Development of Workshops

In the second half of the 18th century and the early 19th century, artisanal production flourished in Moscow: jewelry, haberdashery, gold items, and other goods. There were shoemaker, hatter, dyer shops, playing card, brick factories, and others. This was facilitated by mid-18th century decrees on the freedom to practice crafts. For example, the decree of 17 April 1767 allowed city residents to engage in “trades for their benefit.”

At the end of the 19th century, the merchant Fedor Vinogradov opened a watch assembly workshop on his estate near Moscow. This workshop produced up to 150,000 watches per year, and the company’s factory was in Switzerland, from where assembled watches were shipped, predominantly the cheapest ones. The watches assembled in Moscow were sold at prices ranging from 1 ruble and 75 kopecks to 3 rubles and 50 kopecks.

Importance of Family Workshops

It is important to note that, besides state establishments, in the 18th-19th centuries in Russia, there were small private artisanal workshops for watch production. As evidenced by documents preserved in archives, these were primarily family-type workshops. In the second half of the 19th century, small private factories were created to produce simple watches. These were made with primitive equipment and thus differed little from similar products made in artisanal workshops.

Towards the end of the 19th century, a division of labor emerged in factories: workers specialized in stamping wheels, hands, assemblies, chimes (producing watches with bells), and cabinets. This demonstrates that watch production in Russia was gradually forming a manufacturing-style labor organization.

Research materials show that Moscow and Saint Petersburg were major centers for assembling and selling watches. For example, in 1856, there were 35 small watch workshops in Moscow, equipped with pedal machines, with screw clamps and a varying number of workers from 8 to 12 people.

Chapter 2: Watch Production in State and Private Factories in Russia (18th – early 20th century)

Introduction

Watch production in Russia reflected the country’s economic prosperity and its level of integration into global production. In the 18th century, under the reign of Catherine II, the first state watch factories were founded, representing a significant step towards developing a national watchmaking industry. These factories not only supplied watches to the Russian aristocracy but also played a key role in elevating the prestige of Russian manufacturing.

The First State Factories

The first state watch factories in Russia were established under the direct influence of Catherine II. In 1764, Catherine issued a decree for the creation of watch factories in Moscow, Saint Petersburg, and the Kupavna estate. These factories, although called “factories,” were actually small-scale manufactures with rather primitive equipment compared to European standards. The creation of these factories responded to several needs:

European Example: Catherine II was inspired by her correspondent Voltaire, who had established a colony of watchmakers in Ferney, near Geneva.

Reducing Imports: She wanted to reduce reliance on expensive watch imports from Europe.

Economic Development: She aimed to promote economic development and the national industry.

Production in State Factories

The factories in Moscow, Saint Petersburg, and Kupavna produced a variety of watches, including pocket watches in precious gold and silver casings. These watches were made to high European standards but in limited quantities. The factories were equipped with advanced machinery for the time, such as presses, lathes, and tools for finishing and polishing metals.

Closure of Factories

Due to various problems, including lack of funding, state watch factories closed in the early 19th century. However, the experience gained in these factories was not completely lost and contributed to the subsequent development of watch production in Russia.

Private Factories

In the second half of the 19th century, numerous small private factories emerged, focusing on producing simpler and cheaper watches. These factories used rudimentary equipment and often did not differ much from artisanal workshops. A notable example is the factory opened by Fedor Vinogradov near Moscow, which assembled watches with components imported from Switzerland.

Division of Labor and Innovation

Towards the end of the 19th century, watch production in Russia began to show signs of industrial organization, with a more defined division of labor:

Specialized Production: Workers specialized in different stages of production, such as stamping wheels, assembling mechanisms, and making cases.

Technological Innovation: The introduction of advanced machinery and the standardization of production processes increased efficiency and product quality.

Influence of Imports

The importation of foreign watches continued to heavily influence the Russian market. Many technological innovations and designs were adopted by Russian producers to improve the competitiveness of their products. International exhibitions played a crucial role in transferring technological knowledge and promoting Russian products abroad.

Conclusion

Watch production in Russia during the 18th and 19th centuries represents a significant part of the country’s industrial development. Despite challenges, state and private production initiatives contributed to creating a foundation for the Russian watchmaking industry. This historical period demonstrates the importance of government support and technological innovation for developing a competitive international industry.

Chapter 3: Import of Watchmaking Products and Its Impact on Russian Production

Introduction

The history of watch imports in Russia dates back to the times of Ivan the Terrible when watches were brought as diplomatic gifts. The influence of foreign watch imports has significantly impacted domestic production, stimulating innovation and competition.

Importation of Watches in the 19th Century

In the 19th century, the importation of watches in Russia was dominated by Swiss products, particularly pocket watches. By the end of the 19th century, Switzerland was the main supplier of mechanisms and complete watches, often encased in gold or decorated with gold details.

Import Data

Switzerland: In 1897, Switzerland exported 32,834 watches to Russia, 31,541 in 1898, and 34,060 in 1899.

Germany: Germany exported 8,855 watches in 1897, 8,851 in 1898, and 8,035 in 1899.

France: France exported 1,188 watches in 1897, 1,186 in 1898, and 1,206 in 1899.

Mechanisms for Pocket Watches

Switzerland: 262 mechanisms in 1897, 3,257 in 1898, and 3,786 in 1899.

Germany: 62 mechanisms in 1897, 2,020 in 1898, and 769 in 1899.

Effects of Imports

The importation of foreign watches had several effects on the Russian industry:

Competition: It prompted Russian producers to improve the quality of their products to compete with foreign ones.

Innovation: It led to the adoption of new technologies and production techniques in Russia.

Training: It incentivized the training of qualified watchmakers in Russia to reduce reliance on imports.

Challenges in Domestic Production

Despite efforts to develop domestic watch production, Russia faced several challenges:

Lack of Technology: Advanced production technologies were often imported and not developed locally.

Insufficient Capital: The high cost of capital needed to start and maintain quality watch production.

Foreign Competition: The dominant presence of high-quality foreign watches made it difficult for Russian producers to establish themselves in the market.

Industrial Exhibitions

International and national industrial exhibitions played a crucial role in transferring knowledge and technologies. Russian watchmakers participated in these exhibitions to learn new techniques and international standards, which they then tried to implement in their productions.

Conclusion

The chapter concludes with a reflection on the importance of imports for the development of the Russian watch industry. Despite the challenges, the influence of imported watches had a positive effect, stimulating innovation and quality improvement in local production.

Additional Data and Curiosities

In 1913, about 3.5 million watches of various types were imported into Russia, excluding pocket watches.

During the revolutionary period (1917-1923), the importation of watches and components almost ceased, causing a significant shortage of these goods in Russia.

Trade and industrial fairs, such as those in Moscow and Saint Petersburg, were crucial events where Russian producers could compare themselves with their foreign counterparts and adopt new technologies.

Chapter 4: Training Qualified Personnel for Watch Production

Introduction

Training and preparing qualified personnel were crucial elements for the development of watch production in Russia. From the 18th to the 19th century, various watchmaking production centers also served as learning places for future master watchmakers. The importance of these institutions and training methods was fundamental in creating a solid foundation for the Russian watch industry.

Initial Training Centers

The first training centers for watchmakers in Russia were often linked to existing production establishments:

Admiralty Compass Workshop: One of the first training centers was the compass workshop at the Admiralty, where time-measuring instruments for the navy were produced.

Yakov Bruce’s Workshop: Another important center was the workshop of the renowned scientist and statesman Yakov Bruce, which combined the production of scientific instruments with artisan training.

Instrument Chamber of the Academy of Sciences: The Academy of Sciences housed a workshop producing precision instruments and training new artisans.

Mechanical Workshop of the Tula Arms Factory: This workshop produced not only weapons but also served as a learning center for mechanics and watchmakers.

Technical Schools and Apprenticeships

In 1701, the first technical school in Russia, the School of Mathematics and Navigation, was established in Moscow, where surveyors were trained and mathematical and physical instruments were produced. Here, solar clocks were also made, and students acquired both theoretical and practical skills.

The Watch School in the Spasskaya Tower of the Moscow Kremlin is another significant example. In this school, soldiers’ sons were trained in the art of watchmaking. The students not only learned basic techniques but actively participated in watch production, contributing to pieces now preserved in museums.

Evolution of Training

With the advent of the 19th century, the need for qualified watchmakers grew exponentially, leading to the establishment of more schools and training programs:

Saint Petersburg Watchmaking School: Founded with the support of the Ministry of Finance in 1900, the school offered a five-year course specializing in mechanics and watchmaking. Students started specializing from the second year, and the entire program was closely linked to practical training.

Private and Government Initiatives: Various private and government initiatives aimed to train a sufficient number of competent artisans. Technical schools and academies provided structured training, while artisanal workshops and factories offered practical apprenticeships.

Importance of Foreign Masters

The influence of foreign masters was significant. Many Russian watchmakers trained abroad or under the guidance of foreign experts in Russia. These masters not only transferred technical knowledge but also introduced new production methodologies and quality standards.

Long-Term Impacts

Technical training and practical preparation of Russian watchmakers created a solid foundation for the development of the country’s watch industry. These efforts helped reduce reliance on imports and improve the quality of local production.

Conclusion

Training qualified personnel was essential for the success of the Russian watch industry. Educational and training initiatives, both governmental and private, enabled the creation of a competent and innovative workforce capable of meeting international market challenges and developing a competitive national industry.

Chapter 5: Conclusion

The conclusion of Olga Nikolaevna Melnikova’s book “Из истории развития часового производства в России” summarizes the main findings of the research and reflects on the historical importance of the watchmaking industry in Russia. This chapter highlights how watch production played a significant role in the country’s technological and socio-economic progress and offers perspectives on future research directions and the importance of preserving the cultural and technical heritage of Russian watchmaking.

Summary of Results

Origins and Development:

The history of watchmaking in Russia spans over six centuries, starting with the installation of the first mechanical clocks in the Moscow Kremlin. This development was influenced by European technological innovations and the adoption of advanced techniques in watch production.

State and Private Factories:

The first watch factories in Russia were founded under Catherine II’s reign to reduce import dependency and promote the national industry. Despite financial and technological challenges, these factories helped establish a solid foundation for the Russian watchmaking industry.

Imports and Innovation:

The importation of foreign watches, primarily from Switzerland and Germany, significantly impacted the Russian market. This stimulated local producers to improve quality and technological innovation in their products.

Training of Qualified Personnel:

Training qualified watchmakers was essential for the industry’s success. Technical schools, academies, and government initiatives provided the necessary skills to support domestic production.

Historical Importance

Technological Progress:

Watch production contributed to technological progress in Russia, introducing new techniques and tools that influenced other areas of precision mechanics and scientific instrumentation.

Socio-Economic Impact:

The watchmaking industry played an important role in economic development, creating jobs and promoting innovation. It also had a cultural impact, as watches became symbols of status and modernity.

Future Research Directions

In-Depth Studies:

The research suggests the need for further in-depth studies to better understand the internal dynamics of the Russian watchmaking industry. This includes analyzing individual factories, production techniques, and the personal histories of artisans.

Preservation of Heritage:

It is essential to preserve and value the cultural and technical heritage of Russian watchmaking. This can be achieved through the conservation of artifacts, documentation of traditional techniques, and promotion of Russian watchmaking history in educational and museum contexts.

Conclusion

Watch production in Russia has a long and rich history that continues to influence the present. Despite challenges, the Russian watchmaking industry has demonstrated remarkable innovation and adaptability. The book’s conclusion calls for recognizing the importance of this sector and supporting further research and initiatives to preserve and promote the Russian watchmaking tradition.

This summary of the concluding chapter provides a detailed overview of the main research findings and the author’s reflections on the historical and future importance of the watchmaking industry in Russia.

Detailed Guide on How to Change a Leather Watch Strap

Strumenti necessari per cambiare il cinturino di un orologio

Introduction: This guide will show you how to effectively change your watch’s leather strap, providing practical advice and step-by-step instructions.


Step 1: Prepare the Necessary Tools

Gather the necessary tools: a small screwdriver, a spring bar tool, and the new leather strap.


Step 2: Remove the Existing Strap

Using the screwdriver or spring bar tool, remove the spring bars that hold the current strap to the watch. Remove the old strap and set it aside.


Step 3: Prepare the New Strap

Ensure the new strap is compatible with the watch in terms of width and lug attachment. Make sure you have the corresponding spring bars ready for installation.


Step 4: Install the New Strap

Insert the spring bars into the ends of the new strap. Align the spring bars with the lugs on the watch and push them into place using the spring bar tool or screwdriver. Ensure the spring bars are securely inserted to prevent the strap from coming off accidentally.


Step 5: Adjustment and Finishing

Wear the watch with the new strap to check its fit and comfort.


Conclusion: Replacing a leather watch strap is a relatively simple task you can do yourself by following the steps above. Follow the instructions carefully and enjoy the new strap that will give your watch a fresh and renewed look. Always remember to buy a strap compatible with your watch to ensure proper installation.

Vostok Codes: A Complete Guide

Tabella identificativa dei codici degli orologi Vostok con modelli Amphibia e Komandirskie, diverse forme di casse e materiali, e elementi di sfondo dell'era sovietica e militare.

Vostok watches, produced in Russia, are icons of reliability and robustness in the watchmaking world. Known for their ability to withstand extreme conditions, these watches are cherished by both collectors and enthusiasts. Their history dates back to the Soviet era, during which they were developed to meet the needs of both the military and civilians. In this article, we will explore in detail the identification codes used to describe the movements and cases of Vostok watches. For convenience, the notation ABCDE/FGHIJKH is taken from the site: netgrafik.ch.

Understanding Vostok Watch Codes

Russian/Soviet movement and case codes follow a specific format: ABCDE/FGHIJKH.

ABCDE

  • AB: Movement diameter in mm.
  • CD, CDE: Soviet movement specification. For more details, refer to the table at the bottom of the page.

FGH

  • FGH: Case variation. Each combination of numbers represents a different case design or style.

I

  • I: Case material. Here are some examples from Vostok models:
    • 0: Stainless steel and other metals without plating.
    • 1: Chrome plated.
    • 2: Gold plated.
    • 3: Gilded (at least 5 microns).
    • 4: Colour coated.
    • 5: Synthetic, polymer, rubber.
    • 7: Titanium alloy.
    • 9: Glass, crystal, ceramics, marble.

JKH

  • JKH: Handset. Each combination represents a specific type of hands used on the watch.

Classification of Vostok Cases

The table below categorises the different cases used in Vostok watch models. The information is organised by case code (FGH), case material (I), watch model, and case shape.

Vostok Case Table

Case Code FGHMaterial IHandset Code JKHModelCase MaterialCase Shape
350XXXAmphibiaStainless steelTonneau
1190XXXAmphibiaStainless steelOctagonal
710XXXAmphibiaStainless steelOctagonal
470XXXAmphibiaStainless steelCarre
320XXXAmphibiaStainless steelTonneau
9370XXXAmphibiaStainless steelRound
960XXXAmphibiaStainless steelBig Lug
250XXXAmphibiaStainless steelMinistry
020XXXAmphibiaStainless steelRound
420XXXAmphibiaStainless steelRound
627XXXAmphibiaTitanium alloyTonneau
381XXXKomandirskieChrome platedRound
383XXXKomandirskieGold platedRound
781XXXKomandirskieChrome platedRound
783XXXKomandirskieGold platedRound
441XXXKomandirskieChrome platedCarre
443XXXKomandirskieGold platedCarre
791XXXKomandirskieChrome platedRound
793XXXKomandirskieGold platedRound
1391XXXKomandirskieChrome platedRound
1393XXXKomandirskieGold platedRound
291XXXKomandirskieChrome platedRound
293XXXKomandirskieGold platedRound
341XXXKomandirskieChrome platedCarre
349XXXKomandirskieTiNCarre
331XXXKomandirskieChrome platedTonneau
339XXXKomandirskieTiNTonneau
091XXXGeneralskieChrome platedRound

Case Materials

Vostok watch cases are made from various materials, each with its own durability and aesthetic characteristics:

  • Stainless Steel (0): Offers exceptional resistance to corrosion and long durability. It is the predominant material for Amphibia models, known for their robustness.
  • Chrome Plated (1): Primarily used in Komandirskie models, providing a shiny finish and good corrosion resistance.
  • Gold Plated (3): Found in some Komandirskie models, giving a luxurious and refined appearance.
  • Titanium Alloy (7): Lightweight and highly resistant, used in models like the Amphibia for increased durability.
  • TiN (Titanium Nitride) (9): Known for its extreme hardness and scratch resistance, providing a distinctive golden finish.

Case Shapes

Vostok watch cases come in various shapes, each with a unique design to suit different tastes and aesthetic preferences:

  • Tonneau: An elegant, barrel-shaped design.
  • Octagonal: An eight-sided design often associated with robustness.
  • Carre: A square or rectangular shape offering a classic look.
  • Round: The most common and versatile shape, suitable for any style.

Main Models

  • Amphibia: Famous for their water resistance and robust construction, these watches feature cases in stainless steel or titanium alloy. Originally designed for the Soviet naval forces, they have become popular among divers and adventurers.
  • Komandirskie: Inspired by military style, these watches, though not officially used by the military, are available in chrome plated, gold plated, and TiN versions. They are known for their classic design and reliability.
  • Generalskie: These watches also feature a military-inspired style but lack evidence of official military use. They often include models with chrome plated cases.

Conclusion

Vostok watches perfectly combine history, engineering, and design. The diversity of cases, in terms of materials, models, and shapes, offers enthusiasts a wide range of choices. Whether you are a collector or simply a watch lover, Vostok models with their unique characteristics and reliability make an excellent choice. Their history and continuous evolution make them a fascinating topic for anyone interested in horology.

Vremia Watches: Soviet Charm and European Quality

swiss watch Vremia Chrono black

Vremia watches, also known as Vremja (in Cyrillic время), are a fascinating example of how international collaboration can create unique and high-quality products. These watches were created in the late 1980s, thanks to the Italian company Binda, with the aim of capitalising on the growing popularity of Soviet culture in the West.

swiss watch Vremia CCCP
Vremia CCCP

The Birth of the Vremia Brand

The BPEMR (BPEMA) CCCP brand was officially registered on 24 March 1989, during a period of commercial opening in the USSR under Gorbachev’s leadership. This opening allowed for the export of various Soviet products to Western markets, where they were enthusiastically received thanks to their exotic charm and robust quality.

russian watch Vremia B&W
Vremia B&W

Features of Vremia Watches

Vremia watches are distinguished by a range of models with reliable mechanical movements such as the Slava 2414, Poljot 2612.1, and Poljot 3133. Their dials, essential and clean, embody the Soviet style of the era. Some models feature distinctive symbols like the Red Star, while others are more subtle, with a small “cccp” inscription in the centre of the dial.

swiss watch Vremia Gold
Vremia Gold

Binda: The Italian Heart of Vremia Watches

Founded in 1906 by Innocente Binda, the Binda company has played a crucial role in the watch sector for over a century. Under the leadership of his grandsons, Simone and Marcello Binda, the company continues to produce and distribute high-quality watches. Binda Italia is known for its ability to combine innovative design and advanced technologies, offering a variety of products ranging from fashion models to more classic and technical watches, including “Swiss Made” timepieces.

swiss russian watch Vremia Pocket
Vremia Pocket watch

The Uniqueness of Vremia Watches

Vremia watches represent a perfect fusion of Russian tradition and Western craftsmanship. The “zerone rosso” model is an emblematic example of this mix, with a design that could easily have been produced by Poljot. Even the time-only and alarm clock models are highly appreciated for their quality and design.

These watches are a true hybrid: Italian construction with Russian mechanics. While they are adapted to the Italian market, they retain a unique charm that distinguishes them from traditional Russian watches. Despite the criticisms of purists, Vremia watches offer exceptional value, with accessible prices ranging from 100 to 150 euros.

swiss russian watch vremia
Vremia Red Zero

Unique Details on the Case Back

A distinctive detail of Vremia watches is the inscription on the case back, which reads:

“Часы собранные в Швейцарии, двигатель механический подлинный русского производства. Mechanical movement originally produced in Russia, watch assembled in Switzerland.”

This inscription highlights the combination of Russian mechanics and Swiss assembly, ensuring the authenticity and high quality of these watches.

swiss watch Vremia Red Star black dial
Vremia Red Star black dial

Conclusion

Vremia watches are a fascinating chapter in the history of watchmaking, characterised by a unique mix of Soviet aesthetics and European quality. Thanks to Binda’s initiative, these watches reflect the best of both worlds, combining attractive design with high standards of quality. A true treasure for watch enthusiasts looking for something unique and meaningful.

Poljot History: Soviet Watchmaking Excellence

soviet watch Sturmanskie Type 2

The Poljot brand represents one of the most significant symbols of the Russian watchmaking industry, with a history rich in technical successes and space adventures. Since its founding, Poljot has embodied the Soviet ambition to achieve technological self-sufficiency and establish itself as a world leader in watch production.

The Origins: From the United States to the Soviet Union

In the late 1920s, the Soviet Union relied heavily on imported watches, a necessity that cost the government precious gold. To end this dependency, it was decided in 1927 to start domestic watch production. In 1929, through the Amtorg Trading Corporation, the Soviet government purchased the facilities of two bankrupt American factories: the Ansonia Clock Company and the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company. Twenty-one former Dueber-Hampden employees moved to Moscow to train local workers, marking the beginning of the First Soviet Watch Factory.

Initially, the factory produced four main models: a 15-jewel pocket watch for the Ministry of Communications, a 7-jewel wristwatch for the Red Army, a 7-jewel civilian pocket watch, and a 15-jewel ladies’ wristwatch. Thanks to the training received, local workers soon managed production autonomously.

The War Period and Innovation

With the German invasion during World War II, the factory was relocated to Zlatoust and returned to Moscow in 1943. During this period, the factory also began producing ammunition. In 1946, the K26 Pobeda model was launched, followed in 1949 by the Sturmanskie model, designed exclusively for military aviation. This watch became famous when Yuri Gagarin probably wore it during the first human space flight on April 12, 1961.

In the 1950s, the factory continued to innovate, introducing the first automatic watch under the Rodina brand in 1956 and special models for unique missions, such as the Soviet Antarctic expedition in 1957. That same year, to celebrate the success of the Sputnik mission, commemorative watches were produced, remaining in production for only one year.

The Establishment of the Poljot Brand

In 1960, the first models bearing the Poljot name, which means “flight” in Russian, were launched. The brand became synonymous with quality and precision, exporting watches worldwide. The Strela chronograph, inspired by the Swiss Venus 150, was used by Alexei Leonov during the first spacewalk in 1965.

With the introduction of the Poljot brand in 1964, the factory consolidated all its models under a single label. The 1970s saw a renewal of available movements and the acquisition of production lines from the Swiss Valjoux, leading to the creation of the 3133 movement, a chronograph used for both military and civilian purposes.

The Post-Soviet Era and Revival

After the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1992, Poljot was named the official supplier to the President of the Russian Federation. The company ceased quartz watch production to focus on a niche market, introducing new lines based on modified 3133 movements. However, the company had to downsize and sell machinery to other companies, leading to the founding of Volmax by some former Poljot employees.

Despite the challenges, in 2003, Poljot adopted the name First Moscow Watch Factory, continuing production for the international market. Today, the Poljot brand is recognized for its tradition of precision and reliability, keeping alive a history inseparably linked to aviation and space adventures.

Curiosities and Iconic Models

Among the most famous Poljot models are the “Sturmanskie” worn by Gagarin and the “Strela” chronograph, symbols of Russian space exploration. Poljot watches are handcrafted by skilled artisans, giving them a distinctive and unique character. Limited editions and the “Aviator” collection are particularly appreciated by collectors for their bold design and cockpit readability.

Insights into Poljot’s History

The 1930s: The Birth of the Soviet Watch Industry

In 1930, with the construction of the factory in Moscow, watch production began at a brisk pace. The first watches produced still bore the Dueber-Hampden brand, but soon Soviet technicians managed to develop entirely new models. The First Soviet Watch Factory, renamed in 1935 in honor of Sergei Kirov, achieved notable success, producing millions of pocket and wristwatches.

The 1940s: War and Reconstruction

During World War II, the factory was evacuated to Zlatoust to avoid capture by the Germans. During this period, besides producing watches, the factory contributed to the war effort by manufacturing ammunition and other military materials. After the war, in 1946, the factory launched the famous Pobeda model, a symbol of Soviet victory.

The 1950s and 1960s: The Space Era

In the 1950s, Poljot began producing watches for military aviation and Soviet cosmonauts. The Sturmanskie model, worn by Gagarin during his historic space flight, became an icon. With the launch of the first artificial satellite Sputnik in 1957, Poljot celebrated the event with a commemorative watch. Producing automatic watches and chronographs became a priority, leading to the creation of models such as Rodina and Strela.

The 1970s and 1980s: Innovation and Expansion

During the 1970s, Poljot continued to innovate, introducing advanced movements such as the 3133 chronograph. The factory acquired production lines from the Swiss Valjoux, enabling the production of high-quality watches for both military and civilian markets. The 1980s saw an increase in exports, with Poljot becoming an internationally recognized brand.

The Foundation of Volmax and the End of 3133 Production

In the late 1990s, Poljot ceased quartz watch production to focus on high-quality mechanical movements. However, economic difficulties led to the sale of movement production machinery to other companies, including Vostok. In 2002, some discontented employees left Poljot to found Volmax, a company that continues to produce watches under the Aviator, Buran, and Sturmanskie brands.

In 2003, Poljot adopted the name First Moscow Watch Factory, limiting the Poljot brand to the domestic market. Production of the 3133 chronograph movement, a milestone in Poljot’s history, ceased definitively in 2011, marking the end of an era.

Vostok Tambov Watch: A Tribute to the Tambov Higher Military Aviation Engineering School

russian watch Vostok Komandirskie Tambov Higher Military Aviation Engineering School
russian watch Vostok Komandirskie Tambov Higher Military Aviation Engineering School
Vostok Komandirskie Tambov Higher Military Aviation Engineering School

A unique collector’s item for watch enthusiasts and Russian military history buffs

This Vostok Tambov watch represents a truly special collector’s piece, not only for its captivating design but also for its significant history. Crafted as a tribute to the graduates of the Tambov Higher Military Aviation Engineering School (ТВВАИУ) in 1994, on the occasion of the 75th anniversary of its foundation, this watch encapsulates a legacy of excellence and dedication in the field of Russian military aviation.

A Historical Institution with an Illustrious Past

The Tambov Higher Military Aviation Engineering School, founded in 1919 as the Aerial Photographic School of the Red Air Fleet, played a pivotal role in training highly qualified personnel for the Soviet and then Russian Air Force. Over the years, the school underwent several name changes, but it was always known as “СВЯЗЬ” (Communication) by its students and staff. Recognized as one of the most prestigious educational institutions in the country, the ТВВАИУ prepared generations of aeronautical engineers who contributed to the success of Russian aviation.

A Unique Design Celebrating Russian Aviation

The Vostok Tambov watch stands out for its distinctive design, which pays homage to the legacy of the ТВВАИУ and Russian aviation. The dark pink dial serves as the backdrop for a stylized image of a MiG-29, one of the most iconic fighters in Russian aviation. Gold lettering and a black grid complete the design, creating an elegant and refined aesthetic.

Unique Details that Tell a Story

At twelve o’clock, the double-headed eagle, the symbol of Russia, and a ribbon with the colors of the Russian flag and the inscription “75°” commemorate the anniversary of the founding of the ТВВАИУ. In the center of the dial, the spread golden wings and the image of a MiG-29 represent the strength and power of Russian aviation. The Cyrillic inscription “Тамбовское ВВАИУ” (Tambov Military Aviation Engineering School) completes the design, emphasizing the watch’s connection to the school.

A Collector’s Item for Enthusiasts

The Vostok Tambov watch is an unmissable collector’s item for watch enthusiasts and Russian military history buffs. Its unique design, significant history, and rarity make it a valuable object for anyone who appreciates Russian aviation and its rich tradition.

The Second Volume of Russian Collectible Watches: A Journey Through Time

Copertina del libro "Orologi Russi da Collezione" con immagini di orologi e componenti meccanici

Behind the scenes

Orologi russi da collezione Volume 2
Orologi russi da collezione Volume 2

June 17, 2024, marks an important date for all enthusiasts of Russian collectible watches: the second volume of “Russian Collectible Watches” has been published. This 192-page book is a bilingual work in Italian and English, published by Reverdito. Its dimensions are 16.3 x 1.8 x 24 cm, making it a substantial yet manageable volume. The authors Lorenzo Fe, Andrea Manini, Karl Samsa, and Vanni Stefanini guide us on a fascinating journey through time and the history of Russian watchmaking.

Introduction to the Book

“Russian Collectible Watches – Volume 2” is a natural expansion of the first volume, which has already captured the attention of Soviet and Russian watch enthusiasts. This second book further delves into the vast and fascinating world of Russian watches, exploring over 150 models covering a time span of more than 100 years, from the first watches donated by the Imperial Romanov family to modern watches produced in the same factories that once belonged to the First Moscow Watch Factory.

A Journey Through Models and Stories

The over 300 high-quality photographs in the book reveal details that tell epic stories and the heroes of an era. Not only the watches, but also political and religious figures of the time find space in these pages. The space race, with its triumphs and challenges, is a central theme, and the images transport us to the crucial moments of this human adventure. The Perestroika, already mentioned in the first book, becomes a real fashion phenomenon, especially in Italy, with the “Red Army watches” flooding the market.

Technical Details and Innovations

Soviet engineers achieved extraordinary successes with ultra-thin, electromechanical, and quartz movements, remaining at the forefront of their time. This book not only explores these technical details but also contextualizes them within broader historical and cultural innovations.

Book Details

Here is a detailed preview of the main chapters of the book, offering a comprehensive and engaging overview for enthusiasts of Russian collectible watches:

Imperial Period

  • Pavel Buhre: The watches of the official jeweler of the Romanov family.
  • 1ГЧЗ: The first attempts at industrial watchmaking.
  • НЧ-С “Generalskie”: Watches reserved for officers of the Red Army.

Soviet and Space Era

  • LUCH: Models that marked an era.
  • POBEDA: Symbols of victory and hope.
  • Galactika and Austro MIR 91: Watches that traveled into space.
  • POLJOT: The excellence of the 3017 chronographs.
  • Sturmanskie: The watches of pilots and cosmonauts.

From Perestroika to the Present Day

  • Vostok Komandirskie: Watches symbolizing military strength.
  • SLAVA: Models representing innovation and progress.
  • RAKETA: From the Soviet period to modern Russia.
  • Moscow Aerospace ’93: Watches celebrating space missions.

Special Features

One of the most fascinating aspects of the book is the attention to technical details. Soviet engineers achieved extraordinary successes with ultra-thin, electromechanical, and quartz movements, remaining at the forefront of their time. The book not only explores these technical details but also contextualizes them within broader historical and cultural innovations.

Furthermore, the volume also addresses lighter themes such as commercial productions that hint at military ones, or watches to be understood as real advertising gadgets or political propaganda tools. A curious example is the Vostok with a plastic case, a watch as innovative as it was unusual for its time.

Back Cover Presentation

The back cover of the book offers a perfect summary of what the reader can expect: a total immersion in a vast and fascinating subject like Soviet and Russian watchmaking. Through the over 300 high-quality photographs, the reader can explore details that tell epic stories and the heroes of an era, immersing themselves in a time span of over 100 years.

Conclusions

“Russian Collectible Watches – Volume 2” is a book for enthusiasts, made by enthusiasts. It does not represent any political or ideological inclination but is a work that explores the world of Russian and Soviet watchmaking as a pretext to study, photograph, and understand the world society, interconnected with the Russian one in many aspects. With the publication of this volume, another important piece is added to the knowledge of a sector as fascinating as it is little known, continuing a journey begun with the first book and destined to continue for a long time.

For those who wish to delve deeper, it is possible to contact the authors at russiancollectiblewatches@gmail.com. Happy reading and enjoy the journey through time!

Exploring the Universe of Russian Watches with Vittorio: A Journey Through Time and Technology

Exploring the Universe of Russian Watches with Vittorio: A Journey Through Time and Technology

Welcome to the fascinating world of Russian watches! In an exclusive interview conducted by Andrea, known as Sovietaly, we delve into the collection of Vittorio, a passionate enthusiast of Russian watches with an engaging story to share.

If you’re curious about exploring the world of Russian-inspired watches, get ready for an exciting journey that will take us through the history, technology, and uniqueness of these timepieces.

This interview video offers a privileged insight into Vittorio’s passion for Russian watches and the captivating stories behind each piece in his collection.

Introduction: Welcome! Whether you are a watch enthusiast or simply curious to explore a unique world, you are in the right place. This video by Andrea, known as Sovietaly in the watch world, takes us on an engaging journey through the collection of Vittorio, a lover of Russian watches with an overwhelming passion for the history and technology behind these incredible pieces.

Summary: In Andrea’s interview with Vittorio, we get an up-close look at Vittorio’s passion for Russian watches. Before becoming a collector, Vittorio developed a deep interest in the Russian language and culture, learning the language and visiting the country. Originally from Frosinone, Italy, but now residing in Warsaw, Poland, Vittorio shares how his passion for Russian watches grew over the years, starting with the serendipitous discovery of a 1990s Molnija pocket watch at a market. His collection, though not vast, includes significant pieces such as the Canfie Dia, his favorite watch due to the rich history it embodies.

Vittorio explains his extensive knowledge of the Russian language, almost at a native level, and his ability to converse fluently on any topic. He recalls his visits to Russia, starting in 2005, and his regular trips since then. Despite living in Poland for many years and initially knowing Polish only for tourist purposes, he later had to deepen his knowledge for work-related reasons.

Vittorio’s collection of watches extends beyond Russian models, including Swiss and Japanese pieces, reflecting his curiosity and openness to diverse cultures. He discusses the technical innovations and unique stories behind Russian watches, such as the use of plexiglass for waterproofing in Soviet-era dive watches, and his interest in the mechanical aspects of these timepieces.

Vittorio also shares his views on historical events, particularly the period from 1917 to 1991 in Russia, and his fascination with Soviet technological advancements like atomic icebreakers and amphibious vehicles. His passion for Russia goes beyond watches, encompassing history, geography, geopolitics, and culture, including 1990s and 2000s music that helped him learn the Russian language.

Finally, Vittorio mentions his online presence, including a website and participation in watch enthusiast forums, and his use of social media to share photos of his travels and collections. His enthusiasm for Russian watches is evident as he describes their stories, technical solutions, and the unique blend of history and technology they represent.

Conclusion: Andrea’s interview with Vittorio has been an exciting experience, taking us into the world of Russian watches through the eyes of a passionate enthusiast. With fascinating stories, technical curiosities, and palpable passion, Vittorio has introduced us to a universe where history and technology merge uniquely.

Watch the full interview on YouTube

Vostok Aurora: A Review of the 70th Anniversary of the October Russian Revolution Commemorative Watch

russian watch Vostok Komandirskie Aurora

The October Revolution of 1917 was a momentous historical event that led to the founding of the Soviet Union. To commemorate the 70th anniversary of this revolution, the Vostok watch factory produced a special model of the Komandirskie watch, called the “Aurora”.

russian watch Vostok Komandirskie Aurora
Vostok Komandirskie Aurora

The watch has a unique dial, with a bronze/brown background featuring the image of the Aurora, the battleship that fired the cannon shot that began the revolution. In the background, which takes up almost the entire dial, is a sky full of small explosions, halfway between cannon shots and fireworks.

This combination of elements is symbolic: on the one hand, it represents the first cannon shot fired by the Aurora, which began the revolution; on the other hand, it represents the celebration and joy that accompanied the event.

The watch is made of stainless steel, with a chrome-plated case and a bi-directional bezel. The movement is mechanical manual, with a Vostok 2414 caliber, which has 17 rubies and 19,800 vibrations per hour. The power reserve is 45 hours.

The watch is a collector’s item, combining a unique design with an important historical significance. It is perfect for fans of Soviet watches or of the history of the October Revolution.

Information about the October Revolution:

The October Revolution was a historical event that took place in Russia in 1917. The revolution led to the fall of the Russian Empire and the founding of the Soviet Union.

The revolution was led by the Bolsheviks, a political group led by Vladimir Lenin. The Bolsheviks were convinced that Russia could be transformed into a socialist society only through a revolution.

The revolution began on November 7, 1917, when the Bolsheviks took control of the city of Petrograd, now St. Petersburg. The Bolsheviks marched towards the Winter Palace, the seat of the imperial government, and captured it.

The October Revolution had a significant impact on world history. It led to the birth of the first socialist state and helped to spread socialist ideas around the world.

Information about the Aurora:

The Aurora was a Russian battleship that was built in 1903. The ship was used during World War I and the Russian Civil War.

The Aurora is famous for firing the cannon shot that began the October Revolution. The cannon shot was fired on November 7, 1917, from a distance of about 2 kilometers from the Winter Palace.

The Aurora is now a museum, located in St. Petersburg.

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