Amphibia

Ostwok: The Story and Mystery of Russian Watches Marketed as Swiss

Sovietaly™ Orologi Russi , , , , , , , , , , , , 0 Comment
Ostwok: The Story and Mystery of Russian Watches Marketed as Swiss

Introduction to Ostwok

The Ostwok brand represents a fascinating chapter in horological history, blending the reliability of Soviet military watches with Swiss prestige and precision. Founded in 1993, Ostwok SA was based in Fehraltorf, Switzerland, and specialized in importing and distributing Russian Vostok watches under a brand that suggested Swiss origin. This article explores the company’s history, the details of its products, and the mysterious 1994 contest, providing a comprehensive overview of this intriguing phenomenon.

The Foundation of Ostwok SA

Ostwok SA was founded in 1993 in Fehraltorf, Switzerland, at Wingertstrasse 50, 8308 Illnau, Illnau-Effretikon, Switzerland. The company imported Vostok watches from the Soviet Union, known for their robustness and reliability, and distributed them in Europe under the Ostwok brand. With a share capital of 800,000 CHF distributed in 800 nominal shares of 1,000 CHF each, the company operated until 2002, when it was liquidated (kompany – global company intelligence)​​ (kompany – global company intelligence)​.

Updated Values in Euros:

  • 800,000 CHF in 1993: Assuming an average exchange rate of 1.50 CHF per euro and an annual inflation rate of 2%, this amount would be approximately 800,000 CHF x 0.66 = 528,000 EUR today.
  • 1,000 CHF per share in 1993: Similarly, each share would be worth approximately 1,000 CHF x 0.66 = 660 EUR today.

Operational Address of Ostwok

From the attached image, it is seen that the operational address on the watch box was Ostwok SA, Postfach 200, Allmendstr. 30, CH-8320 Fehraltorf, Switzerland.

Primo piano di una scatola nera con l'indirizzo della società OSTWOK SA. Proprietà di Sovietaly.
Primo piano di una scatola nera con l’indirizzo della società OSTWOK SA. Immagine di proprietà di Sovietaly.

The Ostwok Brand

Ostwok is an anagram of Wostok, the German name for Vostok, chosen to facilitate correct pronunciation in German-speaking countries. The Ostwok logo, which replaced Vostok’s Cyrillic “B” with a “W”, was a distinctive feature and often included graphic symbols such as stars or military emblems. This branding aimed to create an image of Swiss watches, leveraging Switzerland’s reputation in watchmaking (WatchUSeek Watch Forums)​​ (SOVIETALY™)​.

Ostwok Watches

The watches sold under the Ostwok brand were actually Vostok Komandirskie and Amphibia models, known for their robustness and durability. These watches, originally produced for the Red Army, featured mechanical movements and often had cases finished in titanium nitride. They were sold with a kit that included a cardboard box and a leaflet with instructions and warranty (TrademarkRegistrationOnline)​​ (SOVIETALY™).

russian swiss watch Ostwok Vostok Komandirskie Generals-Uhr
Ostwok Generals-Uhr
Vostok Ostwok Komandirskie Paratrooper
Ostwok Paratrooper
swiss russian ostwok watch gagarin
Ostwok Kosmonauten-Uhr

Registration in Canada

Ostwok SA registered several trademarks in Canada starting in 1994, including trademarks for horological and chronometric instruments and related accessories. However, the registration procedures were interrupted, and the trademarks were abandoned by 1998. This registration was part of a strategy to expand the brand’s international presence and protect it in global markets (TrademarkRegistrationOnline)​​ (WatchUSeek Watch Forums).

The 1994 Contest

In 1994, Ostwok SA launched a contest to promote its watches. The contest offered significant prizes, including sums of money (SFr. 10,000 for the first prize and SFr. 5,000 for the second prize) and Ostwok watches. Participants had to correctly answer three questions regarding Ostwok SA’s headquarters, whether the watches required batteries, and the presence of a quality certificate. The deadline for submissions was 31 May 1994, and the winners were to be selected under notarial supervision. No further specific information about the contest’s outcome or winners has been found (SOVIETALY™)​​ (SOVIETALY™)​​ (WatchUSeek Watch Forums).

Pubblicità in tedesco di orologi militari russi Ostwok con immagini di diversi modelli. Proprietà di Mchap.
Pubblicità in tedesco che promuove orologi militari russi Ostwok con diversi modelli visibili. Immagine di proprietà di Mchap.

Translation of the Advertisement:

Jetzt schlägt’s OSTWOK

OSTWOK, die russische Original-Militäruhr

Jetzt sind sie da! Die einzig echten Original-Kommandirskie-Militäruhren aus der ehemaligen Sowjetunion. Diese weitgehendst handgefertigten, mechanischen und robusten Spezialuhren sind bereits im härtesten Testmarkt Schweiz der absolute Renner. Nun ist die erste Kollektion, die eigens für die ehemalige sowjetische Armee-Elite kreiert wurde, auch in Deutschland eingetroffen. Weitere Serien werden folgen!

Die schweizerische Handelsfirma OSTWOK SA hat den alleinigen weltweiten Vertrieb exklusiv in Händen und bietet sie im Direktverkauf unter der Marke OSTWOK mit Lederarmband, Qualitätszertifikat vom Werk und 1 Jahr Garantie an. Sichern Sie sich dieses batteriefreie, wasserdichte und stoßfeste Liebhaberstück. Es besteht ein Ansichts- bzw. Rückgaberecht innerhalb 5 Tagen. Die Uhren bleiben bis zur vollständigen Bezahlung im Eigentum der Lieferfirma.

Verlangen Sie unseren Prospekt für weitere Kommandirskie-Uhren!

Bestell-Telefon: 0130 815 888 (gebührenfrei)
Bestell-Telefax: 004119 551 313

RESERVIERUNGS-/ BESTELLZERTIFIKAT

AnzahlArmband braunArmband schwarz
KGB (automatisch)DM 215.-[ ]DM 220.-[ ]
GeneralDM 195.-[ ]DM 200.-[ ]
AdmiralDM 195.-[ ]DM 200.-[ ]
MarinefliegerDM 195.-[ ]DM 200.-[ ]
KosmonautDM 89.-[ ]DM 94.-[ ]

Gewünschte Zahlungsart: [ ] Bar/Check
[ ] Rechnung
[ ] Nachnahme

Preise zuzüglich MwSt., Verpackungs- und Versandspesen

Frau/Herr:
Name/Vorname:
Strasse/Nr.:
PLZ/Ort:
Telefonnummer:
Geburtsdatum:
Datum, Unterschrift:

Bitte einsenden an: Ostwok SA, Postfach 200, CH-8320 Fehraltorf

Now it’s time for OSTWOK

OSTWOK, the original Russian military watch

Now they are here! The only genuine original Komandirskie military watches from the former Soviet Union. These predominantly handmade, mechanical, and robust special watches are already the absolute hit in the toughest Swiss test market. Now the first collection, specially created for the former Soviet army elite, has also arrived in Germany. More series will follow!

The Swiss trading company OSTWOK SA has exclusive worldwide distribution rights and offers them for direct sale under the OSTWOK brand with a leather strap, factory quality certificate, and a 1-year warranty. Secure these battery-free, waterproof, and shockproof collector’s items. There is a viewing and return right within 5 days. The watches remain the property of the supplier until full payment.

Request our brochure for more Komandirskie watches!

Order Telephone: 0130 815 888 (toll-free)
Order Fax: 004119 551 313

Reservation/Order Certificate

QuantityBrown StrapBlack Strap
KGB (automatic)DM 215.-[ ]DM 220.-[ ]
GeneralDM 195.-[ ]DM 200.-[ ]
AdmiralDM 195.-[ ]DM 200.-[ ]
Naval PilotDM 195.-[ ]DM 200.-[ ]
CosmonautDM 89.-[ ]DM 94.-[ ]

Preferred Payment Method: [ ] Cash/Check
[ ] Invoice
[ ] COD

Prices plus VAT, packaging, and shipping costs

Name/Surname:
Street/No.:
ZIP/City:
Telephone Number:
Date of Birth:
Date, Signature:

Please send to: Ostwok SA, Postfach 200, CH-8320 Fehraltorf

Contract with Switzerland

A period newspaper article describes the contract between a Swiss company, BN, and the Vostok watch factory. This contract involved the supply of 1.5 million “Commandant” watches and exclusive distribution in the West. Vostok’s administrative director, Vladimir Irnjiev, confirmed the details without revealing specific information about the Swiss partner or the contract amount (WatchUSeek Watch Forums)​.

Articolo di giornale in francese intitolato "Contrat avec la Suisse" che parla dell'accordo tra la fabbrica di orologi russa Ostwok e una società svizzera per la fornitura di orologi Commandant (Komandirskie)
Articolo di giornale francese che annuncia il contratto tra la fabbrica di orologi russa Ostwok e una società svizzera per la fornitura di 1,5 milioni di orologi Commandant. Immagine di proprietà di Mchap.

Text of the Article:

Massive, inelegant, but reliable, the Russian “Commandant” watch was once reserved for Red Army officers. For three years, it has made its appearance in the West, with some success. So much so that a Swiss company, BN, has just signed a contract with the “Vostok” watch factory, which will supply 1.5 million “Commandant” watches in the coming years.

The Swiss firm has also acquired exclusive sales rights in the West. Available on the Russian market for about 5000 rubles (about 45 francs), these massive watches are now distributed internationally.

Contacted in Chistopol, in the Tatarstan region (central Russia), the administrative director of “Vostok”, Vladimir Irnjiev, remains very evasive.

He confirms the data published by the Russian agency Interfax but says nothing more, neither about the Swiss partner nor about the amount of the contract, “a commercial secret”.

As for the BN company, it is unknown to the Swiss Watch Federation, which keeps a register of all Swiss companies that produce and market watches.

With an annual production of about 70 million watches, Russia is one of the “giants” of watchmaking, along with Japan, Hong Kong, and Switzerland.

Updated Values in Euros:

  • 45 Swiss francs in 1994: With the same exchange rate and inflation, this amount would be about 45 CHF x 0,66 = 29,7 EUR today.

Additional Resources and Links

Conclusion

With this information, we can better understand the history and uniqueness of Ostwok watches, an intriguing blend of Soviet reliability and European style. Ostwok represents a fascinating example of how watchmaking can unite different cultural and technical traditions, creating unique and sought-after products for collectors.

The Amphibia Revolution: The Invention of Soviet Waterproof Watches

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Michail Fëdorovič Novikov e Vera Fëdorovna Belova, sviluppatori degli orologi Amphibia.

This is an interview with Novikov and Belova, the inventors and developers of the Amphibia project.

Mikhail Fyodorovich Novikov and Vera Fyodorovna Belova, Developers of the Amphibia Watches

The developers of the Amphibia watches, Mikhail Fyodorovich Novikov and Vera Fyodorovna Belova. Image from a video by Vyacheslav Medvedev.

Michail Fëdorovič Novikov e Vera Fëdorovna Belova, sviluppatori degli orologi Amphibia.
Gli sviluppatori degli orologi Amphibia Michail Fëdorovič Novikov e Vera Fëdorovna Belova. Immagine tratta dal video di Vjačeslav Medvedev.

In 1967, a peculiar event caught the attention of many: a “Volga” car drove over a watch. This was not an accident but a public demonstration of the extraordinary capabilities of the Amphibia, the first Soviet waterproof watch. The article describes this moment as follows:

«…10 …7 …5. Неумолимо, метр за метром движется колесо машины. Затаив дыхание, застыли люди. Что же будет? … Три … метр и, наконец, произошло то, чего с таким любопытством ожидал собравшийся здесь народ: колесо «Волги» переехало… часы» (…10 …7 …5. Relentlessly, metre by metre, the car’s wheel moves forward. People hold their breath, motionless. What will happen? … Three … metres and, finally, what the crowd gathered here was so curiously expecting happened: the wheel of the Volga ran over… the watch.)

The creators of the Amphibia, Mikhail Novikov and Vera Belova, tell us about the genesis and peculiarities of this revolutionary watch. Novikov, then head of the New Developments Bureau, was tasked with designing a watch that could compete with the best foreign models, ensuring reliable operation up to 200 metres in depth and resistance to significant variations in pressure and temperature.

Novikov M.F.:

“The challenge was to develop a watch that was not inferior to foreign models and that ensured reliable operation up to a depth of 200 metres, in conditions of great pressure and temperature variations. The name ‘Amphibia’ was chosen through an internal competition, representing a being that feels at home both in water and on land.”

The design of the Amphibia required the adoption of innovative technical solutions to avoid patent issues and to overcome the limitations of the available technology. For example, the watch glass was designed with a special profile to withstand extreme pressures, while the rubber gasket was developed with highly specific materials to ensure perfect watertightness.

Belova V.F.:

“The glass of the Amphibia is thicker than normal: 3 mm compared to the 2 mm of the ‘Komandirskie’ watches. Not only are the thickness and configuration different, but the manufacturing process is also special. The glass is polished to ensure a perfect seal under high pressure.”

Belova emphasises that the processing of the Amphibia glass required extreme precision, with a production process that included polishing to ensure the absence of any imperfections. The watch case’s resistance was further enhanced using stainless steel, a material that was not common for this type of application in the USSR at the time.

Novikov M.F.:

“It seemed that we could simply copy foreign models, but many of their solutions were patented. Moreover, our equipment could not guarantee the necessary precision. We had to find solutions that were just as effective but without infringing existing patents.”

The Amphibia was not just a water-resistant watch; it was an engineering masterpiece. Every detail, from the rubber gasket to the stainless steel case, was designed to overcome the toughest challenges. Novikov and Belova, with their dedication and innovation, managed to create a watch that would mark an era.

In addition to the civilian version, a military version of the Amphibia, called the NVCH-30, was developed for Soviet Navy divers. These models were subjected to rigorous tests of resistance and operation, including drills simulating sea rescue scenarios.

Belova V.F.:

“These watches were tested with very rigorous programmes. Even the strap had to pass extreme resistance tests. The strap’s connection to the NVCH-30 looked a bit strange but was extremely robust.”

The legacy of the Amphibia lives on today as a symbol of innovative engineering and durability. Novikov and Belova, with their vision and expertise, have left an indelible mark on the history of watchmaking.

Unlocking the Mystery of the Vostok Cosmopolis

Sovietaly™ Orologi Russi , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , 0 Comment
russian watch Vostok Amphibia Cosmopolis

A New Theory for the Amphibia Vostok Cosmopolis

The Vostok Cosmopolis is one of the most sought-after and mysterious watches from the Soviet Vostok brand. Often linked to the Baikonur Cosmodrome, this watch has captivated collectors and enthusiasts with its unique design and potential connections to space and philosophy. Here, we explore the various theories surrounding this model and present a new hypothesis that could finally explain the significance of the Vostok Cosmopolis.

Characteristics of the Vostok Cosmopolis

The Vostok Cosmopolis is an Amphibia model with a round case, featuring the classic Amphibia hands: the hour hand shaped like an arrow, the linear minute hand, and the red second hand with a luminous dot. The bidirectional rotating bezel has the typical luminescent dot. The dial showcases a large eye, coloured blue and red, set against a green striped rectangle. Above and below the rectangle, the inscriptions “КОСМОПОЛИС” and “COSMOPOLIS” in Cyrillic and Latin, respectively, give the watch its distinctive name.

Current Theories

1. The Baikonur Cosmodrome

The simplest theory links the Vostok Cosmopolis to the Baikonur Cosmodrome in Kazakhstan. According to this hypothesis, the eye symbolises a look towards the future and space exploration. However, this theory remains weak as, during the Soviet era, references to space ventures would have been more explicit.

2. Space Cities

Another theory discussed on the Watchuseek forum in 2006 suggests that the watch represents a space city. This idea also ties back to the Baikonur Cosmodrome but lacks substantial evidence.

3. Cosmism

On the Italian forum Orologiko, a user proposed the theory of “Cosmism,” a Russian philosophical movement viewing matter as dynamic and living. According to this view, the eye on the dial represents the concept of a living cosmos, supported by historical figures like Konstantin Tsiolkovsky, the father of Russian astronautics.

4. Hylozoism

Another hypothesis on the Orologiko forum links the cosmic eye to hylozoism, a philosophical doctrine considering matter to have life. The eye could represent God, with the cosmos as its living manifestation.

The New Theory: Cosmopolis Publishing House

A new hypothesis has emerged through recent research. A user on VK, “Boshdan Boshomolov,” suggested that the logo on the dial might belong to the “Cosmopolis” publishing house, active around 1990-1991. This Soviet-American joint venture, based in Moscow, published several books, including “Commercial Banks” by E. Reed and others.

confronto scritte editore cosmopolis vostok amphibia sovietaly mister

Research Details

The “Cosmopolis” publishing house was known for publishing science fiction and other literary works with futuristic and philosophical themes. The publisher’s logo, resembling the eye on the watch’s dial, suggests a visual connection between the watch and the publishing house.

cosmopolis casa editrice
cosmopolis casa editrice

Conclusions

While absolute certainty is elusive, the theory that the Vostok Cosmopolis is a commemorative watch for the Cosmopolis publishing house is the most plausible. The dial design, featuring the eye and the Cyrillic and Latin inscriptions, reflects the Soviet-American nature of the publisher. The presence of the “Made in USSR” inscription and the early 1990s dating further support this hypothesis.

For more details, you can visit the following links:

The Vostok Cosmopolis remains one of the most enigmatic and fascinating watches in the Soviet Vostok production, a piece of history embodying the mystery and innovation of its time.

casa editrice cosmopolis
casa editrice cosmopolis

Raketa Marine Navy 24h, the mystery unveiled…

Sovietaly™ Orologi Russi , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , 0 Comment
russian watch Raketa 24h Marine
russian watch Raketa 24h Marine
Raketa 24h Marine

The Raketa Marine: A Classic Russian Watch with Hidden Secrets

The Raketa Marine is a beloved classic among Russian watches, known for its subtle intricacies. Produced during both the Soviet and Russian eras, this watch is highly sought after by collectors. Often regarded as a “must-have” for anyone looking to start or complete a watch collection, the Raketa Marine is not only aesthetically pleasing but also boasts several unique functions.

1. The 24-Hour Format

One of the key features of the Raketa Marine is its 24-hour format. Powered by the Raketa calibre 2623.H, a 26mm diameter manual winding movement with antishock protection, this watch stands out in the realm of Russian timepieces. Unlike conventional 12-hour watches, the hour hand of the Raketa Marine completes one full rotation every 24 hours. This results in a distinctive gap between the hour and minute indices, which we’ll explore further. Despite variations across Soviet, Russian, and GOST-branded versions, the Raketa Marine remains clear and easy to read.

Raketa Marine 24h explanation
Raketa Marine 24h
Raketa Marine 24h rotation of the guards
Raketa Marine 24h rotation of the guards

2. Tracking Watch Duty

Another notable feature of the Raketa Marine is its rotating inner ring, adjustable using a crown located at the 8 o’clock position. This ring is designed to help track watch shifts, which in naval terms consist of 4 hours on duty followed by 4 hours off. The cycles are represented on the ring, allowing for easy adjustment to mark the start of a shift. A curious aspect is the color coding: one of the four-hour shifts is marked in red, while the others are in blue. Although this might simply highlight the first shift, the precise nature of Russian design suggests there could be a deeper meaning. There’s also speculation online about dashed lines on the dial representing shower times for sailors, but this remains unconfirmed.

3. Understanding Radio Silence

The most intriguing mystery of the Raketa Marine involves the blue lines on the dial between 6:00-7:00 and 18:00-19:00. These markings, which don’t immediately reveal their purpose, hold a significant function related to maritime operations. By closely examining the watch, it becomes evident that the blue lines align with minute indices rather than hour indices. This observation, coupled with research, points to a well-known naval practice called “radio silence periods.”

raketa marine radio room mistery gif

What is Radio Silence?

Radio silence is a crucial practice wherein radio operators cease transmissions to listen for distress signals. Specifically, this occurs for three minutes every half-hour, at 15-17 and 45-47 minutes past the hour. This period allows operators to pick up any SOS signals from ships in danger, particularly on the 500 kHz frequency. There’s also a separate listening period for MAYDAY messages on a different frequency. For a detailed explanation, you can refer to the page on RADIO SILENCE.

RADIO ROOM WATCHES IN ADDITION TO RAKETA MARINE

On the net, there are many examples and two often used are of famous Soviet clocks and watches:

radio-room-wallclock (netgrafik.ch)
vostok-radio-room (netgrafik.ch)

The 500 kHz frequency

Due to the legibility issues on the watch dial, only the period related to the 500 kHz telegraph transmissions was highlighted. Listening on medium waves at 500 kHz fell out of use in 1999 after about 90 years, replaced by more modern and reliable systems. However, at the time the Raketa Marine was designed, this practice was still in effect.

Further Reading

For those interested, HERE are insights in Italian about the use of this frequency. This explanation should clarify the purpose of the small blue lines on the dial of the Raketa Marine.

Interestingly, many “Radio Room Clocks” also highlight only this band. They likely date from before the introduction of the full system with the four-time bands. Here is a historical example.

Last articles

Simple Guide to Soviet and Russian Watch Movements

Sovietaly™ Orologi Russi , , , , , , , , , , 0 Comment
Vostok 2416b Rannft (C)

How to Recognize Soviet and Russian Movements?

One of the key features of Soviet watches is that they contain only Soviet movements. These watches do not feature any external parts; all components were produced within the USSR. The quality of these movements varied depending on the factory, with some periods of excellence and others less so.

Here are some fundamental and curious pieces of information about these movements.

The Codes on Soviet Watch Passports

The codes used to identify Soviet movements were developed and standardized in the 1960s. These codes can be found on the passports that accompanied every watch produced during the Soviet era:

    Passaporto sovietico Vostok 2609A
    Passaporto sovietico Vostok 2609A
    Passaporto sovietico Molnija 3602
    Passaporto sovietico Molnija 3602

    What Do the Codes Mean?

    Deciphering the code is not particularly complicated. The movement code consists of 4 digits and one or two letters. After the fall of the Soviet Union, more codes were added, and the two digits often became three.

    • The first two digits represent the movement’s diameter in millimeters.
    • The next two/three digits represent the specific characteristics of the movement.
    • The following letters represent the variations that occurred over time.

    Movements with the same characteristics produced by different companies have the same code, but this does not mean they are identical. Usually, the movement is identified by the manufacturing company followed by the movement code.

    A classic example found on many websites includes:

    • Slava 2416
    • Vostok 2416
    • Poljot 2416

    All three movements have a diameter of 24mm, and the 16 identifies them as:

    • Automatic
    • Central seconds
    • Date
    • Shockproof

    For detailed characteristics of the movements, you can find an exhaustive list here.

    Online Resources

    There is another valuable online resource often used to identify movements and gain related information: Ranfft Watches.

    Other useful resources include:

    A good understanding of Russian/Soviet movements can often help quickly identify when a watch has been assembled or is not contemporaneous.

    Examples of Movements

    Some common Vostok movements include:

    • Vostok 2409
    • Vostok 2414A
    • Vostok 2416b

    For more detailed characteristics of these movements, you can refer to the Ranfft database.

    Conclusion

    The subject is vast and complex with many nuances. This guide aims to provide a brief introduction to help you start understanding the complexity of the Russian/Soviet watchmaking world.

    All images of the movements can be found at: Ranfft Watches.

    Discovering the Charm of Soviet and Russian Watch Collections

    Sovietaly™ Orologi Russi , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , 0 Comment
    Ritaglio schermata pagina Lancette Sovietiche Collezionare Sovietaly intervista

    It may seem unusual, but sometimes a collection of Soviet/Russian watches can capture the attention and appreciation of even those who are not experts in the field. This intriguing niche of collecting has recently been highlighted in an interview published by the magazine “Collezionare,” available in both print and digital formats (www.collezionare.com).

    The Magazine “Collezionare”

    The magazine “Collezionare” is a specialized publication focused on the world of collecting, offering in-depth articles, news, and interviews on a wide range of collectible items. From vintage to antiques and modern collectibles, the magazine serves as an authoritative and up-to-date resource for enthusiasts. Available in both print and online versions, “Collezionare” stands out for the quality of its content and the passion with which it tells the stories of collectors and their unique collections.

    Two years ago, I contacted several journals related to collecting to promote my father’s Pirelli advertisement collection, including “Collezionare”. The interview with my father can be found at this link. Given the existing contact, a couple of months ago I reached out again to the journalist who conducted the interview, suggesting she might also be interested in my collection of Soviet/Russian watches. A few days later, she contacted me to schedule a phone interview.

    Ritaglio schermata pagina Lancette Sovietiche Collezionare Sovietaly intervista
    Lancette Sovietiche collezionare online

    On April 14, 2018, the online version of the interview was published and can be read at this link.

    Soviet Watches

    In the interview, Andrea Manini, a 44-year-old from Milan who has been collecting since 1992, shares insights into his collection of over 400 Russian watches. “What I really enjoy is that, unlike Swiss watches, Russian ones always have a story to tell.”

    The Stories Behind Soviet Watches

    Many stories surround Soviet watchmaking, particularly those involving Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. The watch he wore during the 1961 mission is still a mystery. Some claim it was a Poljot Sturmanskie, produced by the First Moscow Watch Factory, often referred to as the Russian equivalent of the Speedmaster used by Armstrong and Aldrin on the moon. Others believe it was the Type One by Sturmanskie, citing a photo where Gagarin wears this model over his red suit. “But who can say for sure? Maybe it was just a training shot,” says Andrea, emphasizing the mystery that often surrounds these famous timepieces.

    The Influence of History on Soviet Watchmaking

    The end of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s marked the beginning of a new era for Russian watchmaking in Italy. Andrea, like many other enthusiasts, started his collection in 1992, the year after the USSR’s dissolution. “1992 is my year zero, the year I began to appreciate these beautiful watches. That year, the first after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, all the unique goods from the former USSR became very sought after, including Russian watches, which started appearing in our jewelry stores. Over the years, I have expanded my collection to about 400 pieces.”

    Early Discoveries

    Andrea’s first purchase was a Vostok Komandirskie wristwatch. “The military look and the rocket on the dial attracted me, and only later did I discover that it was a Vostok Komandirskie model, with the Vostok 1 rocket that Gagarin used to orbit the Earth in 1961.”

    Collection Categories

    Russian watches are categorized in various ways. Andrea focuses on Russian space adventures and Soviet watches made for the Italian market. Other themes include Soviet polar explorations and Russian railways, particularly the BAM line.

    The History of Russian Watchmaking

    Russian watchmaking has a complex history intertwined with the country’s social, political, and military developments. During the Tsarist era, watches were mainly produced by artisanal workshops. With the advent of the Soviet Union, watch production became essential for both civilians and the military. Initially, pocket watches were produced, but gradually, wristwatches became the focus.

    Watch Factories

    Numerous companies arose in the Soviet Union, named after war or space adventures. “The First Moscow Watch Factory, later named Poljot (which means flight), Raketa (rocket), Pobeda (victory, dedicated to WWII), and Chaika (seagull, which was Valentina Tereshkova’s code name during her space flight).”

    Export and Marketing

    In the 1960s and 70s, Soviet watches were exported at low prices to promote sales. This was a state-imposed strategy. In Italy, Russian watchmaking has often been underrated due to its proximity to Switzerland. However, the Russians understood the importance of marketing and created watches with logos for export or specific models for certain markets.

    Rare Models

    Among the rarest models in Andrea’s collection is a Raketa Big Zero with a nephrite dial, a green stone similar to jade. Finding rare models is challenging, especially online where many fakes and assembled pieces are sold.

    Tips for Collectors

    To avoid buying fakes, Andrea advises consulting more experienced and reliable collectors. “Today, there are many forums and groups where you can exchange opinions and advice.”

    This collection of Soviet/Russian watches, with its rich history and intriguing models, continues to captivate not only enthusiasts but also newcomers to the world of collecting.

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