Exclusive: To the North Pole on the Yamal

Exclusive: To the North Pole on the Yamal

In the November 2007 issue of “qui TOURING,” Jacopo Pasotti takes readers on an extraordinary journey aboard the nuclear-powered icebreaker Yamal, operated by Atomflot, renowned for organizing cruises to the North Pole. This unique voyage offers an unparalleled opportunity to experience the remote Arctic in a vessel engineered to navigate the most formidable ice-covered waters on Earth.

russian watch Raketa Yamal
Raketa Yamal (PM)

Setting Sail from Murmansk

Our journey begins in Murmansk, Russia’s largest Arctic port, a city historically shaped by its strategic importance during and after World War II. Murmansk’s skyline, dotted with utilitarian Soviet-era buildings, reflects its past of hurried reconstruction and industrial significance. Here, we board the Yamal, a formidable icebreaker with a striking visage, complete with painted fangs on its black hull, ready to carve a path through the icy wilderness.

russian watch Raketa Yamal
Raketa Yamal

The Endless Day

21st July

Crossing the Arctic Circle ushers us into a realm of perpetual daylight, where the sun never dips below the horizon. This phenomenon disrupts our sense of time, making it challenging to distinguish between day and night. The crew, a mix of seasoned Russian officers and enthusiastic tourists, navigate through these timeless days, with the Yamal advancing steadily through the ice.

22nd July

Aboard the Yamal, life adapts to the rhythm of the Arctic. After a meal prepared by Austrian chefs, I find myself on the bridge, tracing our route on a nautical chart. The crew, unfazed by the ceaseless daylight, maintain their watch, guiding us ever northward.

Encounters with the Arctic

23rd July

At 80 degrees north, we encounter our first iceberg, a colossal, drifting monolith of blue ice. This awe-inspiring sight draws everyone on deck, marking our entry into the high Arctic’s icy expanse.

25th July

We are now just 500 kilometers from the North Pole, surrounded by an endless sea of ice. The Yamal plows through the thick ice, occasionally getting momentarily stuck before breaking free with a thunderous crash. The chief engineer explains the ship’s nuclear power: two reactors and 75,000 horsepower propellers enable the Yamal to tackle ice up to three meters thick.

A highlight of our voyage is the sighting of a polar bear. Unfazed by the imposing icebreaker, the bear curiously observes us before disappearing into the Arctic wilderness. This rare encounter with the Arctic’s top predator underscores the region’s raw and untamed beauty.

Reaching the North Pole

27th July

The culmination of our journey is the arrival at the North Pole. Standing at 90°00’00” N, there is a sense of accomplishment mixed with the humble realization of the pole’s simplicity—just a point in a vast, frozen sea. Here, under the North Star, every direction is south, a humbling reminder of the Earth’s vastness.

The Return Journey

28th July

On our return, we explore the Franz Josef Land archipelago, the last land discovered in the Arctic. These remote islands, cloaked in glaciers and shrouded in mist, offer brief glimpses of sunlight that paint the landscape in hues of twilight. The archipelago’s isolation and harsh conditions highlight the perseverance required to explore these final frontiers.

29th July

Laurie Dexter, our expedition leader, shares tales of his life in the Arctic, including his time living with Inuit communities. His stories of survival and adaptation in this extreme environment are both inspiring and humbling.

Reflections

2nd August

Back in Murmansk, it’s difficult to reconcile the familiar world with the otherworldly experiences of the past two weeks. The journey to the North Pole, once a distant dream, has been realized thanks to the Yamal. The Arctic, with its stark beauty and profound solitude, has left an indelible mark on all who ventured into its icy embrace.

russian watch Raketa Yamal Cruise '93
Raketa Yamal Cruise ’93

The Future of the Arctic

The Arctic’s future remains uncertain. Climate change predictions have shifted from an ice-free Arctic by 2070 to potentially as soon as 2035. This rapid change threatens the region’s delicate ecosystem, with implications for global climate patterns and geopolitical interests.

Practical Information

  • Documents: Valid passport with a Russian visa.
  • Climate: Summer temperatures hover around -2°C, but can feel much colder with wind chill.
  • Travel: No direct flights to Murmansk from Italy; connections through Helsinki or St. Petersburg are necessary.
  • Expedition Operator: Quark Expeditions specializes in Arctic and Antarctic tours. For more information, visit Quark Expeditions.

Upcoming Expeditions

  • Dates for 2008: June 23 – July 8, July 6 – 21, July 19 – August 4.
  • Cost: Starting from 16,000 Euros, inclusive of travel from Helsinki.

Exploring the Arctic aboard the Yamal offers not only a journey through ice and time but also a profound connection with one of the last pristine wildernesses on Earth.

Vintage Soviet Watches from the 1980s

Rivista orologi da polso marzo aprile 1989 n9 anno 3 pagina 1

Recently, I had the opportunity to delve into a vintage watch magazine from the late 1980s. The issue in question is “Orologi da Polso,” Year III – No. 9, dating back to March-April 1989, published by Edizioni Studio Zeta of Monza. Among the various articles, one particularly intriguing piece explores the history and influence of vintage Soviet watches from the 1980s and their connections with European countries, including Italy. Below, I present a detailed overview of the article, providing insights into the state of the watch industry during that era, enriched with additional context and information for a comprehensive understanding.

The Soviet Watchmaking Phenomenon

The article begins by highlighting a significant historical context: the Soviet Congress of 1925 aimed for economic self-sufficiency, transitioning from an importer to a producer nation. It was unimaginable a few years prior that vintage Soviet watches from the 1980s would become fashionable, almost a cultural phenomenon.

Russian horology boasts an illustrious history. The Kremlin’s tower clocks, constructed in the early 15th century by Lazar Serbin, and the carillons of the Saviour Tower, restored in the 19th century by the Butenop brothers, are notable examples. Under Tsar Peter the Great, famous French artisans were invited, fostering a watchmaking school in Russia, despite French artisans enjoying greater privileges.

Notable Russian Watchmakers and Collections

The article further mentions Ivan Kulihin, a renowned watchmaker from the 18th century, whose exquisite pieces are housed in the Hermitage Museum in Leningrad and various museums in Moscow. An exhibition in Florence showcased magnificent pieces from the Romanoff collections, revealing the craftsmanship of the Bronnikov family, known for their wooden clocks, and the contributions of watchmakers like Tolstoy and Nosov to mechanical advancements.

The Soviet Watch Industry’s Evolution

Before the October Revolution, parts and mechanisms were imported from Switzerland for assembly in Russia. In the late 19th century, France invested in Tsarist domains, and after World War I, Italy acquired Russian pocket watches, which were later issued to railway personnel.

The Soviet watch industry’s roots date back to the 1930s, evolving significantly by the 1940s, with factories converting to military production during World War II and later returning to civilian manufacturing. The principal Moscow factory, established in 1942, eventually became Vostok, one of the most prominent Soviet watch manufacturers.

Soviet Watches in the 1980s

By the 1980s, over fifteen factories in the USSR specialised in various watch productions, including well-known brands like Chaika, Poljot, Zaria, Paketa, Slava, and Penza. The 1950s marked the beginning of exportation, primarily to Warsaw Pact nations. The article discusses the romantic history of the Mark watch, resembling the Poljot, and its connection to an Italian family.

Italian-Soviet Collaborations and Market Impact

The first significant import of Soviet watches to Italy occurred in the late 1980s, spearheaded by Orazio Occhipinti of Mirabilia di Milano, who distributed Paketa watches. These vintage Soviet watches from the 1980s, known as “raketa” in Russian, saw a surge in popularity, influenced by Gorbachev’s policies and an increasing openness towards Soviet products.

At the Vicenza fair, Mirabilia also presented Poljot watches, featuring mechanical movements and shock-resistant cases. The Vostok brand offered models tailored for different military branches, with manual winding, water resistance up to 10 atmospheres, and luminous hands and indices.

Additionally, Italian-designed watches with Russian mechanisms emerged, like the Soviet, combining Russian quartz movements with Italian aesthetics. The Elmitex company introduced the Perestroika collection, a blend of quartz and mechanical chronographs, at both the Vicenza and Moscow fairs.

Conclusion

This 1989 issue of “Orologi da Polso” provides a fascinating snapshot of Soviet watchmaking during a transformative period. It reflects the blend of historical craftsmanship and modern industrial capabilities, highlighting the Soviet Union’s impact on the global watch market. The Italian perspective, with insights from key figures like Jacopo Marchi and collaborations with Soviet manufacturers, underscores the cross-cultural influences that shaped the horological landscape of the late 20th century.

For further reading, I encourage exploring the complete article and the magazine scans, offering a deeper dive into this captivating era of watchmaking history.

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