The history of Slava, one of the most iconic brands in Russian watchmaking, begins with the foundation of the Second Moscow Watch Factory. This article explores the origins, development, challenges, and evolutions of this historic factory up to its current state.
Origins of the Second Moscow Watch Factory
Founded in 1924, the Second Moscow Watch Factory was one of the first non-military watch manufacturers in the Soviet Union. In 1929, the Soviet Union acquired two American watch factories, the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company and the Ansonia Clock Company, to start its own watchmaking industry (Wixsite) (Wixsite). Official watch production began in 1931, using the equipment purchased from the Ansonia Clock Company.
During World War II, the factory was evacuated to Chistopol and focused on producing military equipment. After the war, the factory returned to Moscow and resumed civilian watch production (Two Broke Watch Snobs) (Wikipedia).
The Birth of the Slava Brand
In the 1950s, the factory began producing watches under the brand name “Slava,” which means “glory” in Russian. This brand was distinguished for producing watches exclusively for civilian consumption, without military or aerospace pretensions (Wixsite) (Wikipedia).
Innovations and Awards
The Slava factory was innovative from its early years. In the 1960s, it introduced the “Slava Transistor,” a watch with an electronic movement that won a gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1964 (DuMarko) (Слава – Русские часы). Other significant awards include the gold medal at the Brno International Fair in 1974 and another gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1975 for models with a 24mm caliber (Слава – Русские часы).
Expansion and Collaborations
From 1955 to 1979, Slava exported up to 50% of its production to over 72 countries. It collaborated with other Soviet manufacturers like Raketa and Vostok to develop advanced movements (DuMarko) (Слава – Русские часы).
Challenges of Privatization
After the fall of the USSR, the Slava factory faced numerous difficulties. During the privatization of the 1990s, many movements were exported to China and Hong Kong to produce cheap counterfeits, damaging the brand’s reputation (Wikipedia) (Слава – Русские часы).
Revival and Current Situation
In 2005, the factory and the Slava brand were acquired by Globex Bank and later transferred to the city of Moscow. The production facilities near Belorusskaya metro station were demolished in 2008 to make way for a shopping center, while wristwatch production was maintained and integrated into the Slava Technopark (Wikipedia) (Слава – Русские часы).
Since 2016, Slava has been using movements produced by the Chistopol Watch Factory “Vostok” for its new models (Слава – Русские часы). Today, production continues with new models inspired by historic designs, such as “Slava Televisor,” “Era,” “Mir,” “Sadko,” “Ais,” and “Doctor,” using the original Slava 2427 movements (Слава – Русские часы).
Anecdotes and Trivia
An interesting fact is about the “Slava Transistor” model, which won a gold medal at the Leipzig Fair in 1964. This watch used an electronic movement that was innovative for its time, showcasing the factory’s technological advancement (DuMarko).
Another anecdote involves Slava’s appearance in the 2016 Bulgarian film “Glory” (original title “Slava”), where the protagonist’s Slava watch plays a key role in the plot (Wikipedia).
Conclusion
The history of Slava is a journey through the evolution of Russian watchmaking, from its roots in the Second Moscow Watch Factory to its current production of innovative models. Despite the challenges of privatization and counterfeiting, Slava continues to represent excellence in watchmaking.
For more information and updates on new Slava models, visit the official Slava website.
The “history of Poljot” begins with the establishment of the First Moscow Watch Factory (Первый Государственный Часовой Завод) in 1930, a key event within the framework of the first Soviet Five-Year Plan. This plan, launched in 1928, aimed to develop heavy industry and modernise the Soviet economy, and the creation of a state-owned watch factory was a significant part of this effort. On December 21, 1927, the Council of Labour and Defence approved a resolution to organise watch production in the USSR, with the goal of producing watches that were comparable in quality and precision to those from Switzerland and the United States (Poljot Watch) (Moscow Watch).
Foundation and Early Years
The Birth within the Context of the Five-Year Plan
To achieve this goal, a group of Soviet engineers was sent to the United States to study production techniques. In 1929, the Soviet government purchased machinery and equipment from the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company in Canton, Ohio, and the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn, New York. These machines were transported to Moscow, along with 23 American technicians, to initiate production (Caliber Corner) (KaminskyBlog).
Initial Production Years
Construction of the factory began in February 1930 and was completed by June of the same year. Official production started on October 1, 1930, with the first 50 pocket watches, known as Type-1 or К-43, based on the Hampden Size 16 calibre. Despite initial difficulties, including a shortage of skilled workers and frequent machinery breakdowns, production rapidly improved thanks to intensive worker training and the establishment of a repair workshop (Moscow Watch).
Expansion and Development
Dedication to Kirov and Production Growth
In 1935, the factory was renamed in honour of Sergei Kirov, a Bolshevik leader who had been assassinated. This event marked a period of expansion, with production reaching 450,000 pieces per year and the beginning of special watch production for cars and aeroplanes (Moscow Watch).
Evacuation during World War II
During World War II, the factory was evacuated to Zlatoust due to the advancing German forces. However, part of the equipment was brought back to Moscow in 1943, and the factory resumed production, focusing on wristwatches. This period also marked the beginning of the production of the renowned Pobeda watch (KaminskyBlog).
The Birth of the Poljot Brand
Name Change and New Models
In 1947, the factory was renamed the First Moscow Watch Factory and started producing the Pobeda wristwatch. In the 1950s, the factory became well-known for numerous innovative models, including the first Soviet automatic watches and special watches for Antarctic expeditions (Moscow Watch) (Poljot Watch).
Introduction of the Poljot Brand
In 1964, all previous brands were consolidated under the name Poljot, which means “flight” in Russian. Poljot quickly became the flagship brand of the Soviet watch industry, producing historical watches used in important space missions, including those worn by Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space (Poljot Watch).
Decline and Post-Soviet Transformation
Decline in the 1980s and 1990s
In the 1980s, the quality of Soviet watches began to decline due to economic stagnation and technological difficulties. After the collapse of the USSR in 1991, the Poljot factory was privatised and transformed into a joint-stock company in 1992. However, financial and managerial difficulties continued to plague the company (KaminskyBlog).
Establishment of Volmax and Maktime
Volmax was founded in 2000 by a group of former Poljot employees. The company focused on producing high-quality watches using historical Poljot designs and movements. Brands such as Aviator, Buran, and Sturmanskie were revived under Volmax, keeping the Russian watchmaking tradition alive (Moscow Watch) (KaminskyBlog).
Maktime, founded in 1996, acquired machinery and equipment from Poljot, including those necessary to produce the famous calibre 3133. Maktime continued the production of this movement and introduced various exclusive watch models, including skeleton watches with precious metal cases and decorations with precious stones (Caliber Corner).
Key Brands of the First Moscow Watch Factory
Brand
Description
Poljot
Means “flight” in Russian; introduced in 1964, becoming the main brand for export and domestic markets.
Pobeda
Means “victory” in Russian; one of the first watches produced after World War II.
Sturmanskie
Worn by Yuri Gagarin on his first space flight; means “navigator”.
Kirovskie
Named in honour of Sergei Kirov; one of the first brands after the factory’s name change in 1935.
Mayak
Means “lighthouse” in Russian; one of the brands used in the 1950s and 1960s.
Moskva
Means “Moscow” in Russian; used in the 1950s.
Rodina
Means “motherland” in Russian; the first Soviet watch with an automatic winding function.
Sportivnie
Means “sporting” in Russian; watches with chronograph functions.
Signal
Mechanical watches with alarm functions; introduced in the late 1950s.
Sputnik
Commemorative of the launch of the first artificial satellite; introduced in 1957.
Antarktida
Special watches produced for Antarctic expeditions.
Kosmos
Means “cosmos” in Russian; commemorative space watches.
Orbita
Means “orbit” in Russian; one of the brands used for wristwatches.
Strela
Means “arrow” in Russian; worn by Alexei Leonov during the first spacewalk.
Vympel
A brand for high-precision watches.
Buran
Also used for more recent models.
Aviator
Mainly used for aviator watches.
Main Calibres Produced
Mechanical Calibres
Calibre 3133: Based on the Valjoux 7734, this is one of the most renowned chronograph movements.
Calibre 2612: Mechanical movement with an alarm function.
Calibre 2609: Used in Sturmanskie watches.
Quartz Calibres
Calibre 2416: Quartz movement used in various Poljot models in the 1980s and 1990s.
Calibre 2431: Another quartz movement produced in the later years of Poljot’s operations.
Conclusion
The “history of Poljot” is a journey through decades of technological and historical changes, consistently maintaining the high quality and craftsmanship of Russian watches. The legacy of Poljot continues to live on through the efforts of Volmax and Maktime.
The watch celebrating the Cosmonaut Training Center is a significant tribute to this fundamental institution for Soviet space exploration. The watch case is made of anodized brass, and the Luch brand is known for producing high-quality watches in Russian horology. The dial features an image that is believed to represent Alexei Leonov during his historic spacewalk. Other symbols include the inscription “Центр Подготовки Космонавтов” (Cosmonaut Training Center) and “Имени Ю. А. Гагарина” (Named after Yu. A. Gagarin).
The Cosmonaut Training Center
The Cosmonaut Training Center, named after Yuri Gagarin after his death in 1968, was founded in the early 1960s in Star City, near Moscow. This center has been the hub of preparation for Soviet and Russian astronauts. From the beginning, it has seen iconic figures like Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space, and Alexei Leonov, the first to conduct a spacewalk.
The center was designed to provide comprehensive training to cosmonauts, including flight simulations, microgravity exercises, and intensive physical training. The center’s facilities include centrifuges to simulate gravitational forces during takeoff and landing, pools for extravehicular activity training, and spacecraft simulators.
The Cosmonaut Training Center played a crucial role during the space race, preparing cosmonauts for critical missions such as those of the Vostok, Voskhod, and Soyuz spacecraft. It has significantly contributed to the success of the Soviet space program and continues to be a pillar of Russian space training. For more information, visit RussianSpaceWeb.
Yuri Gagarin’s Achievement
Yuri Gagarin, the first man to orbit the Earth on April 12, 1961, made the Cosmonaut Training Center famous worldwide. Gagarin became a global symbol of courage and innovation, paving the way for future space missions and representing the pinnacle of technology and human aspiration. For more details, visit Wikipedia on Yuri Gagarin.
Alexei Leonov and the First Spacewalk
On March 18, 1965, Alexei Leonov conducted the first spacewalk, marking a milestone in space exploration. During the Voskhod 2 mission, Leonov exited the spacecraft for 12 minutes, facing the vacuum of space. His determination and courage are celebrated through the image on the watch dial. Leonov demonstrated that humans could operate outside the confines of the spacecraft. For detailed information on Leonov’s spacewalk, visit Space.com.
Luch Brand
Luch is a historic brand of Soviet horology, known for producing high-quality watches since 1953. The factory, located in Minsk, Belarus, maintained significant production throughout the Soviet era and continues to operate today, producing watches appreciated both nationally and internationally. For the full history of the Luch brand, visit Luch.by.
The Luch 2356 caliber is a quartz movement known for its reliability and precision. This caliber has been used in various Russian watches, such as Chaika, Luch, Slava, Uglich, and Raketa. The Luch 2356 caliber uses a 371 battery, making it easy to maintain.
The CARDI Vostok watch brand represents a unique collaboration between Western design and Russian mechanical precision. Founded in the early 1990s, this brand distinguished itself with unique designs and the use of high-quality movements produced by the renowned Vostok watch factory.
Origins and History
The history of CARDI Vostok begins in 1991, shortly after the collapse of the Soviet Union. The name “Cardi” is derived from the abbreviation of “Car Design Studio,” a Russian company specializing in automobile customization. In an attempt to diversify its activities, Cardi began collaborating with the Vostok watch factory to produce watches with a more “Western” aesthetic (WatchUSeek Watch Forums) (WatchUSeek Watch Forums).
The early models of CARDI Vostok were known for their innovative design and the use of materials such as brass and cheap alloys, mainly produced by the Minsk Watch Factory. These watches were considered high quality, but over time the quality of the materials declined, leading the brand to lose popularity and cease production around 2009 (Sovietaly).
Design and Movements
CARDI Vostok models combine Cardi’s creative design with Vostok’s robust mechanical movements. The designs were often inspired by the automotive world, with names like “Capitan,” “MVM Sport,” “GP,” “Racing Time,” and “Radar” (WatchUSeek Watch Forums).
The watches used high-quality mechanical movements, such as the 2409 caliber produced by the Vostok factory. Some later models used movements from the 1st Moscow Watch Factory (Poljot) and the Slava factory, in addition to the original Vostok movements. However, after being acquired by Interex-Orion in 2000, the brand began using Chinese movements to reduce costs, further impacting the overall quality of the watches (WatchCrunch) (WatchUSeek Watch Forums).
Decline and End of Production
Despite initial success, various factors led to the brand’s decline. The quality of the materials used decreased over time, and the introduction of Chinese movements compromised the brand’s reputation for quality. These changes led to a drop in sales and, ultimately, the cessation of production around 2009. Today, Cardi has withdrawn from the watch market and refocused on automotive design (Sovietaly) (WatchUSeek Watch Forums).
Conclusion
CARDI Vostok watches represent an interesting chapter in the history of Russian watchmaking, characterized by a mix of Western design and Russian mechanics. Although production has ceased, these watches remain collectible items for vintage watch enthusiasts and symbolize a period of transition and innovation.
Among Russian watches, the Vostok Desert Shield stands out as a hero of numerous urban legends, misunderstandings, stories, and fictional anecdotes. Below, we explore the history and various versions of this iconic watch.
Origins and Creation
The American newspaper Beverly Times mentions the birth of the Vostok Desert Shield on January 28, 1991. The article, likely an advertorial, highlights Bruce Erikson, an American businessman who had the idea of importing “Made in the USSR” watches to the United States. Erikson founded Timepeace Russian Watches Inc. in 1990, commissioning the Vostok factory in Chistopol to produce 10,000 watches to commemorate Operation “Desert Shield” during the Gulf War.
The Flag Research Centre worked on the dial image, creating the famous design that combined the American flag with a palm tree and two green Arabian sabres, in homage to the Kingdom of Hejaz and the Sultanate of Nejd, united in 1932 to become Saudi Arabia. Erikson also intended to send a watch to President Bush. These watches were not intended for American soldiers serving during the Gulf War; the entire initiative was purely commercial.
Production Details and Various Versions
It seems that the actual production increased to 40,000 units, divided into several series worth distinguishing and analyzing.
First Series
The first series of the Desert Shield is recognizable by the absence of the Vostok B logo on the dial, with the inscription “Made in USSR.” The case is the 420 Amphibian, combined with a bezel with a luminous dot at 12, four small red dots, and seven black dots. The hands are those of the Amphibia, with the seconds hand red and a luminous “lollipop.”
The Timepeace logo is engraved on the case back, which also bears the words “VOSTOK,” “Series I,” “USSR,” “Self Winding,” “SS Case,” “Watertight 200m,” “21 jewels,” and a five-digit serial number. The movement is an automatic Vostok 2416B, with the words “twenty-one” and “21 jewels” written in black on the oscillating weight.
The watch was sold for $149, with a discount for military personnel at $99. It was sold with documents in English, suggesting it was intended for the American market, supporting the idea that it was not a military watch but an accessory available in outlets.
Second Series
This version had an identical dial to the first series but some differences. The case remained the 420 steel model, but the coordinated bezel became the standard Amphibia one, with slightly larger red dots.
The case back had the Timepeace logo and the inscriptions “VOSTOK” or “VREMIR,” “USSR,” “Self-Winding,” “SS Case,” “Watertight 200m,” “21 jewels,” and a six-digit serial number. The movement remained the automatic 2416B, with the inscriptions “twenty-one” and “21 jewels” not in black.
When we talk about the possibility of finding the VOSTOK or VREMIR logo on the case back, we should add that “VREMIR” combines two words: “VREMIA” (time) and “MIR” (peace). “Vremir” was a registered trademark of Timepeaces Russian Watches Inc. in 1991. This detail on the case back is a sort of nod to the company’s name.
This series also had documents in Russian, indicating they were sold both in the United States and in Russia. The number of units produced remains unknown.
“Cadet” Model
Another popular model is the 34 mm Cadet model, distinctive for the inscription on the dial “Desert Shield” on the left semicircle and “Desert Storm” on the right semicircle, instead of “Operation Desert Shield,” indicating a design developed after 1991.
The case is the “Cadet” model, measuring 34 mm, with spear-shaped hands for the hours and minutes. The movement is the 2409A, 17 jewels with manual winding. The case back bears the Timepeace logo and the words “Vremir,” “USSR,” “Watertight 50m,” “17 jewels,” “Shockproof,” “SS back,” and a six-digit serial number.
This model often appears in small cases with standard Vostok case backs and is included in a 1993 Vostok catalog.
Other Versions
Browsing the internet or exploring flea markets, you can find Vostok Desert Shield watches with variations from the described models. These might have different case backs, more similar to standard Vostok designs, or dials with the Vostok “B” logo. It is believed that Vostok had a surplus of dials and assembled watches using different Komandirskie or Amphibia cases from the 420. These versions featured the “B” logo and used different cases or movements depending on the period.
Vympel Version
A very special version of the Desert Shield is known with the inscription Alcor Vostok (Алькор Восток) on the case back, a model that at first glance might seem like a fake made with a standard Chinese Tongji calibre, but several elements suggest authentic production, albeit bizarre.
This model is often attributed to the Belarusian factory Vitebsk Instrument-Making Plant, known for using standard Chinese Tongji calibres for its production. The attention to detail and the presence of Vostok logos on the calibre, dial, and case back suggest that, for some particular reason, the production was requested by Vostok. The case design suggests a Vympel, a brand that often used standard Chinese Tongji calibres for its production.
Modern Versions and Legacy
The Vostok Desert Shield has been honoured several times, with modern and contemporary models updated following new Vostok productions. The museum in Chistopol, where the Vostok factory is located, displays two examples of the Desert Shield, indicating its historical and commercial importance.
Despite its commercial origins, the Vostok Desert Shield is a fascinating artefact, reflecting a combination of history, marketing, and craftsmanship. Its history, linked to the Gulf War and the cultural exchange between the USA and the USSR, continues to capture the attention of watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide.
BEVERLY – Timepeace Russian Watches Inc., a Hale Street inport company that formed a year ago, is selling a watch made in the Soviet Union to commemorate Operation Desert Shield.
In the last month, the company already has given away about 300 of the 10,000 limited edition Russian military watches to troops stationed in Saudi Arabia.
Timepeace CEO Bruce Erikson, who runs the company out of his Hale Street home, is saving the first Operation Desert Shield watch made to personally present to President Bush in the future.
“Operation Desert Shield gave peace a chance,” says Erikson, who runs Timepeace with partners Bruce Corwin and W. Edgar Cornish. “America has emerged as the peace-keeping force in the world. Part of a peaceful world order is stopping an aggressor like Saddam Hussein.”
Erikson’s company is promoting the $149 watch among veterans group publications and in various upscale department stores as a way to show support for American soldiers fighting in the Middle East and their families at home.
Designed by the Flag Research Center in Winchester, the face of the Operation Desert Shield watch features an American flag, a palm tree and crossed sabers.
While Erikson admits the outbreak of war in the Persian Gulf was an unfortunate turn of events, he points out one opportunity it presents for many Americans.
“It’s an opportunity for some people to relive the Vietnam experience in a better way,” Erikson says. “People have come to understand the importance of supporting a war effort at home.”
Erikson was introduced to the high quality of Russian watches last year when he and his wife, Lynne, visited the Soviet Union as chaperons with a group from the Hamilton-Wenham Regional High School chorus.
When he returned, Erikson and the partners in the investment company he also runs out of his home began importing watches as Timepeace Russian Watches Inc.
Erikson’s new company would not only fan the embers of free enterprise in the Soviet Union, but also take advantage of what the 43-year-old entrepreneur considers one of Russia’s best-kept secrets.
It’s kind of a secret the Russians have because they have been cut off from the rest of the world for so long.
Vostok watches, produced in Russia, are icons of reliability and robustness in the watchmaking world. Known for their ability to withstand extreme conditions, these watches are cherished by both collectors and enthusiasts. Their history dates back to the Soviet era, during which they were developed to meet the needs of both the military and civilians. In this article, we will explore in detail the identification codes used to describe the movements and cases of Vostok watches. For convenience, the notation ABCDE/FGHIJKH is taken from the site: netgrafik.ch.
Understanding Vostok Watch Codes
Russian/Soviet movement and case codes follow a specific format: ABCDE/FGHIJKH.
ABCDE
AB: Movement diameter in mm.
CD, CDE: Soviet movement specification. For more details, refer to the table at the bottom of the page.
FGH
FGH: Case variation. Each combination of numbers represents a different case design or style.
I
I: Case material. Here are some examples from Vostok models:
0: Stainless steel and other metals without plating.
1: Chrome plated.
2: Gold plated.
3: Gilded (at least 5 microns).
4: Colour coated.
5: Synthetic, polymer, rubber.
7: Titanium alloy.
9: Glass, crystal, ceramics, marble.
JKH
JKH: Handset. Each combination represents a specific type of hands used on the watch.
Classification of Vostok Cases
The table below categorises the different cases used in Vostok watch models. The information is organised by case code (FGH), case material (I), watch model, and case shape.
Vostok Case Table
Case Code FGH
Material I
Handset Code JKH
Model
Case Material
Case Shape
35
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Tonneau
119
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Octagonal
71
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Octagonal
47
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Carre
32
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Tonneau
937
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Round
96
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Big Lug
25
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Ministry
02
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Round
42
0
XXX
Amphibia
Stainless steel
Round
62
7
XXX
Amphibia
Titanium alloy
Tonneau
38
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Round
38
3
XXX
Komandirskie
Gold plated
Round
78
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Round
78
3
XXX
Komandirskie
Gold plated
Round
44
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Carre
44
3
XXX
Komandirskie
Gold plated
Carre
79
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Round
79
3
XXX
Komandirskie
Gold plated
Round
139
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Round
139
3
XXX
Komandirskie
Gold plated
Round
29
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Round
29
3
XXX
Komandirskie
Gold plated
Round
34
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Carre
34
9
XXX
Komandirskie
TiN
Carre
33
1
XXX
Komandirskie
Chrome plated
Tonneau
33
9
XXX
Komandirskie
TiN
Tonneau
09
1
XXX
Generalskie
Chrome plated
Round
Case Materials
Vostok watch cases are made from various materials, each with its own durability and aesthetic characteristics:
Stainless Steel (0): Offers exceptional resistance to corrosion and long durability. It is the predominant material for Amphibia models, known for their robustness.
Chrome Plated (1): Primarily used in Komandirskie models, providing a shiny finish and good corrosion resistance.
Gold Plated (3): Found in some Komandirskie models, giving a luxurious and refined appearance.
Titanium Alloy (7): Lightweight and highly resistant, used in models like the Amphibia for increased durability.
TiN (Titanium Nitride) (9): Known for its extreme hardness and scratch resistance, providing a distinctive golden finish.
Case Shapes
Vostok watch cases come in various shapes, each with a unique design to suit different tastes and aesthetic preferences:
Tonneau: An elegant, barrel-shaped design.
Octagonal: An eight-sided design often associated with robustness.
Carre: A square or rectangular shape offering a classic look.
Round: The most common and versatile shape, suitable for any style.
Main Models
Amphibia: Famous for their water resistance and robust construction, these watches feature cases in stainless steel or titanium alloy. Originally designed for the Soviet naval forces, they have become popular among divers and adventurers.
Komandirskie: Inspired by military style, these watches, though not officially used by the military, are available in chrome plated, gold plated, and TiN versions. They are known for their classic design and reliability.
Generalskie: These watches also feature a military-inspired style but lack evidence of official military use. They often include models with chrome plated cases.
Conclusion
Vostok watches perfectly combine history, engineering, and design. The diversity of cases, in terms of materials, models, and shapes, offers enthusiasts a wide range of choices. Whether you are a collector or simply a watch lover, Vostok models with their unique characteristics and reliability make an excellent choice. Their history and continuous evolution make them a fascinating topic for anyone interested in horology.
One of the most fascinating aspects of collecting watches is discovering what they commemorate or represent. This passion led me in November 2020 to discover a Soviet Zim watch with a champagne-colored dial and a monument depicted on it, which was unknown to me at the time.
The Zim Watch
This Soviet Zim is well-preserved, with a champagne-colored dial that is rich in detail but aesthetically very pleasing. The main elements are well distinguished, and the dial depicts the Monument of Glory in Kuibyshev, now known as Samara. The dial also bears the inscription “Kuybyshev,” the name Samara had from 1935 to 1991 in honor of the Bolshevik leader Valerian Kuybyshev.
Details of the Watch
The hands, including the small second hand, appear to be original. The dial is in excellent condition, although the watch seems to have been used. The plexiglass may have been replaced. On the dial, between three and nine o’clock, are the waves of the Volga River, adding a touch of elegance and geographical context to the watch.
The Back of the Watch
The case shows signs of wear that have removed the plating, revealing the brass underneath. The stainless steel case back is fixed with a screw-down ring, also in steel. The back bears a serial number: 524715. Although the serial numbers of Soviet watches do not have a particular significance, they are useful for identification through the watch passports.
The Movement of the Watch
The heart of the watch is a simple yet effective Pobeda 2602 caliber without antishock.
Located in the city of Samara, the Monument of Glory is dedicated to the workers of the aviation industry who contributed significantly during the Great Patriotic War. Built between 1968 and 1971, the monument was created by sculptor Pavel Bondarenko, artist Oleg Kiryuhin, and architect A. Samsonov. The structure, over thirty meters high, is made of a stainless steel alloy. The inauguration took place on November 5, 1971.
A selection of historical images allows you to appreciate the monument in various periods, probably starting from its construction in 1971.
The Monument of Glory Today
The monument is located in Slavy Square, with the Volga River in the background. This detail is also depicted on the watch’s dial. The monument, made of an aeronautical alloy, features vertical lines at the base and shiny steel representing rays of light directed towards the sky. The statue on top, 13 meters high, depicts a figure with wings spread.
Video of the Monument
Various videos online show the grandeur of the Monument of Glory and the adjoining square. Here is one of the best from 2019:
The City of Samara
The watch dial shows the founding date of the city of Samara, 1586. Interestingly, one of the earliest representations of the city is on a 14th-century Italian map when Samara was considered a pirate haven.
The two dates on the dial refer to the city’s 400th anniversary (1586-1986).
This watch perfectly represents why I love collecting Russian and Soviet watches: each piece is a journey through time and space, allowing me to visit historical moments and fascinating places just by looking at the dial.
It may seem unusual, but sometimes a collection of Soviet/Russian watches can capture the attention and appreciation of even those who are not experts in the field. This intriguing niche of collecting has recently been highlighted in an interview published by the magazine “Collezionare,” available in both print and digital formats (www.collezionare.com).
The Magazine “Collezionare”
The magazine “Collezionare” is a specialized publication focused on the world of collecting, offering in-depth articles, news, and interviews on a wide range of collectible items. From vintage to antiques and modern collectibles, the magazine serves as an authoritative and up-to-date resource for enthusiasts. Available in both print and online versions, “Collezionare” stands out for the quality of its content and the passion with which it tells the stories of collectors and their unique collections.
Two years ago, I contacted several journals related to collecting to promote my father’s Pirelli advertisement collection, including “Collezionare”. The interview with my father can be found at this link. Given the existing contact, a couple of months ago I reached out again to the journalist who conducted the interview, suggesting she might also be interested in my collection of Soviet/Russian watches. A few days later, she contacted me to schedule a phone interview.
On April 14, 2018, the online version of the interview was published and can be read at this link.
Soviet Watches
In the interview, Andrea Manini, a 44-year-old from Milan who has been collecting since 1992, shares insights into his collection of over 400 Russian watches. “What I really enjoy is that, unlike Swiss watches, Russian ones always have a story to tell.”
The Stories Behind Soviet Watches
Many stories surround Soviet watchmaking, particularly those involving Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space. The watch he wore during the 1961 mission is still a mystery. Some claim it was a Poljot Sturmanskie, produced by the First Moscow Watch Factory, often referred to as the Russian equivalent of the Speedmaster used by Armstrong and Aldrin on the moon. Others believe it was the Type One by Sturmanskie, citing a photo where Gagarin wears this model over his red suit. “But who can say for sure? Maybe it was just a training shot,” says Andrea, emphasizing the mystery that often surrounds these famous timepieces.
The Influence of History on Soviet Watchmaking
The end of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s marked the beginning of a new era for Russian watchmaking in Italy. Andrea, like many other enthusiasts, started his collection in 1992, the year after the USSR’s dissolution. “1992 is my year zero, the year I began to appreciate these beautiful watches. That year, the first after the dissolution of the Soviet Union, all the unique goods from the former USSR became very sought after, including Russian watches, which started appearing in our jewelry stores. Over the years, I have expanded my collection to about 400 pieces.”
Early Discoveries
Andrea’s first purchase was a Vostok Komandirskie wristwatch. “The military look and the rocket on the dial attracted me, and only later did I discover that it was a Vostok Komandirskie model, with the Vostok 1 rocket that Gagarin used to orbit the Earth in 1961.”
Collection Categories
Russian watches are categorized in various ways. Andrea focuses on Russian space adventures and Soviet watches made for the Italian market. Other themes include Soviet polar explorations and Russian railways, particularly the BAM line.
The History of Russian Watchmaking
Russian watchmaking has a complex history intertwined with the country’s social, political, and military developments. During the Tsarist era, watches were mainly produced by artisanal workshops. With the advent of the Soviet Union, watch production became essential for both civilians and the military. Initially, pocket watches were produced, but gradually, wristwatches became the focus.
Watch Factories
Numerous companies arose in the Soviet Union, named after war or space adventures. “The First Moscow Watch Factory, later named Poljot (which means flight), Raketa (rocket), Pobeda (victory, dedicated to WWII), and Chaika (seagull, which was Valentina Tereshkova’s code name during her space flight).”
Export and Marketing
In the 1960s and 70s, Soviet watches were exported at low prices to promote sales. This was a state-imposed strategy. In Italy, Russian watchmaking has often been underrated due to its proximity to Switzerland. However, the Russians understood the importance of marketing and created watches with logos for export or specific models for certain markets.
Rare Models
Among the rarest models in Andrea’s collection is a Raketa Big Zero with a nephrite dial, a green stone similar to jade. Finding rare models is challenging, especially online where many fakes and assembled pieces are sold.
Tips for Collectors
To avoid buying fakes, Andrea advises consulting more experienced and reliable collectors. “Today, there are many forums and groups where you can exchange opinions and advice.”
This collection of Soviet/Russian watches, with its rich history and intriguing models, continues to captivate not only enthusiasts but also newcomers to the world of collecting.
The Vostok Cosmonaut, also improperly known as the Vostok Astronaut, is a highly sought-after Soviet watch among collectors worldwide. Its charm lies in the dial that depicts the profile of a cosmonaut inside a space suit helmet. But who is actually depicted? Let’s explore the various theories and the different versions of this iconic watch.
Versions of the Vostok Cosmonaut
There are primarily three variants of the Vostok Cosmonaut watch: two from the Soviet era and one from the post-Soviet transitional period. Additionally, there are different types of cases and bezels that add to the variety of this model.
Soviet Era Versions
Black Dial The black dial version is usually housed in a chromed Generalskie 091xxx case, with the Vostok automatic caliber 2416b. Produced in the 1980s, it was mainly destined for the Italian and German markets. This model is easily recognizable by its typical unidirectional bezel with small dots.
Blue Dial The blue dial version, much rarer, is set in a Neptune case and features a Vostok automatic caliber. Despite the color differences, the dial design remains substantially identical to the black version.
Transitional Period Version
There is also a post-Soviet version of the Vostok Cosmonaut. This variant, often marketed as Amphibia, follows the success of the Soviet versions with a very similar dial. The main differences lie in the case and bezel, as seen in the following images.
The most distinctive part of the watch is undoubtedly the dial, which depicts the profile of a cosmonaut with a helmet against a backdrop evoking deep space. The Soviet and transitional versions are very similar but present some differences in graphic details.
At first glance, it’s not easy to notice the differences between the two versions. However, by carefully comparing the reflections on the helmet and visor, distinctive details can be identified. Just take the position of the “P” on the helmet as a reference.
There are three main theories regarding the identity of the cosmonaut depicted:
Yuri Gagarin The most common theory is that the cosmonaut is Yuri Gagarin, the first man to travel into space. The delicate features of the depicted face resemble those of Gagarin, as seen in historical photos (Astronomy Scope) (Night Sky Pix).
Anna Lee Fisher Some suggest that the image might be inspired by American astronaut Anna Lee Fisher. Although it’s unlikely for an American astronaut to be depicted on a Soviet watch, the resemblance to some photographs of Fisher is striking (Difference Wiki).
Valentina Tereshkova The most fascinating and perhaps most probable theory is that the face depicted is that of Valentina Tereshkova, the first woman to travel into space. Her historic mission aboard Vostok 6 in 1963 makes her an icon of the Soviet space era (Astronomy Scope) (WorldAtlas).
Does the Vostok Cosmonaut Have Clones?
There is a similar, though less prestigious, version of the Vostok watch. It is a Slava model with manual winding and caliber 2428. The light gray/white dial features the profile drawing of the cosmonaut but with less definition compared to the original Vostok. Curiously, the bottom of the dial bears the name Yuri Gagarin in Cyrillic (Ю. А. ГАГАРИН), which might support the theory that the cosmonaut depicted is Gagarin.
The Vostok Cosmonaut, with its various versions, is a milestone in any collection dedicated to the space era and Soviet watches. The simplicity of the design and the cleanliness of the dial make it one of the best Soviet watches of the 1980s. Regarding who is depicted on the dial, the mystery adds an additional layer of charm. Whether it is Gagarin, Tereshkova, or a generic cosmonaut, the Vostok Cosmonaut continues to celebrate those brave men and women who paved the way for space exploration.
Difference Between Cosmonaut and Astronaut
The term “cosmonaut” is used to refer to space travelers trained by the Russian or Soviet space agency, while “astronaut” is used for those trained by U.S., European, Canadian, or Japanese space agencies (StarLust) (Astronomy Scope) (Night Sky Pix). The distinction originated during the Cold War and reflects the independence and competition between the U.S. and Soviet space programs.
Cosmonaut: Derived from the Greek words “kosmos” (universe) and “nautes” (sailor), meaning “sailor of the universe.”
Astronaut: Derived from the Greek words “astron” (star) and “nautes” (sailor), meaning “sailor of the stars.”
Fun Facts About Anna Lee Fisher
Anna Lee Fisher was the first mother to fly into space and worked as a chemist and astronaut for NASA. She was married to William Frederick Fisher, also an astronaut, and together they represented one of the few married couples to have both flown into space (Difference Wiki).
Insights on Yuri Gagarin and Valentina Tereshkova
Yuri Gagarin: The first man in space, on April 12, 1961, completing an orbit of the Earth with the Vostok 1 mission. His achievement represents a milestone in the history of space exploration (WorldAtlas) (Night Sky Pix).
Valentina Tereshkova: The first woman in space, flew on June 16, 1963, aboard Vostok 6. Her mission lasted almost three days and marked a significant advancement in the inclusion of women in the space program (WorldAtlas) (Night Sky Pix).
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