Complete Guide to Modern Russian Watchmaking

Vostok Watch Amfibia 1967 2415/190057

Discover the key brands in modern Russian watchmaking with an in-depth analysis of each brand. Whether you’re an experienced collector or a novice, this guide will provide all the information you need to navigate the fascinating world of Russian horology.

Independent Brands

Raketa

Official Website: Raketa

Raketa is one of the most iconic names in Russian watchmaking, established in 1961 to honor Yuri Gagarin’s space flight. Known for their in-house movements, Raketa watches like the “Big Zero” and “Kopernik” are distinctive and innovative. These timepieces blend bold design with incredible technical precision, making Raketa a standout brand for those seeking unique watches.

Vostok

Official Website: Vostok

Vostok is celebrated for its robust and reliable watches, such as the “Amphibia” and “Komandirskie” lines. Founded in 1942, Vostok has a rich history of producing durable timepieces initially designed for the Soviet military. These watches are appreciated for their durability and functional design, perfect for outdoor enthusiasts and water sports lovers. The Amphibia line, in particular, is renowned for its water resistance and sturdy construction.

Luch

Official Website: Luch

Luch, founded in 1953 in Minsk, offers elegant and accessible watches with excellent value for money. Luch provides a wide range of designs, from classic to modern, known for their simplicity and reliability. Combining minimalist design with high precision, Luch watches are an excellent choice for those seeking elegance and functionality at an affordable price.

Poljot International Holding

Poljot International

Official Website: Poljot International

Poljot International continues the tradition of the famous Poljot brand, known for its chronographs and mechanical watches. Their models range from classic manual winders to sophisticated tourbillons, blending modern design with Russian tradition. The attention to detail and craftsmanship make these watches unique pieces.

Basilika

Official Website: Basilika

Part of the Poljot International holding, Basilika stands out for its unique and recognizable designs. These watches combine elegance and functionality, making them eye-catching for their distinctive aesthetics.

Volmax Holding

Sturmanskie

Official Website: Sturmanskie

Sturmanskie is known for its ties to Soviet aviation and space exploration. The “Gagarin” models commemorate the first human space flight, while the “Sputnik” line celebrates the launch of the first artificial satellite. Sturmanskie watches are valued for their durability and historical design, ideal for aviation and space enthusiasts.

Strela

Official Website: Strela

Revived under Volmax, Strela is famous for its chronographs used in Soviet space missions. Modern Strela watches retain vintage designs and use high-precision mechanical movements, making them popular among collectors for their history and reliability.

Aviator

Official Website: Aviator

Part of Volmax, Aviator produces watches inspired by aviation. These timepieces are designed to be robust and precise, evoking the golden era of flight. Aviator watches are perfect for those seeking a blend of functionality and aeronautical style.

CCCP Time (Hong Kong)

Slava

Official Website: CCCP Time

Slava, now associated with CCCP Time, produces Soviet-themed watches using restored Slava movements or modern Japanese movements. These models combine nostalgic design and reliability, reflecting the aesthetics of original Soviet watches. They are perfect for those looking for a piece of history with a modern twist.

Meranom

Buyalov

Official Website: Meranom – Buyalov

Buyalov, sold through Meranom, is known for its distinctive and artisanal watch designs. These models offer a unique blend of modern aesthetics and Russian watchmaking tradition, resulting in timepieces that are both elegant and functional.

Attache

Official Website: Meranom – Attache

Attache, another brand distributed by Meranom, is known for its elegant and professional watches. These timepieces are designed for the business audience, featuring sophisticated design and high-quality construction.

Amphibia

Official Website: Meranom – Amphibia

Amphibia is famous for its rugged and reliable diving watches, ideal for water sports enthusiasts. Known for their water resistance and durable construction, these watches are perfect for underwater adventures.

AGAT (Zlatoust Watch Factory)

AGAT

Official Website: AGAT Watch Factory

AGAT, also known as the Zlatoust Watch Factory, is famous for its robust diving watches and chronometers. Models like the “191-ChS” and “192-ChS” are particularly valued for their solid construction and iconic design. These watches were originally designed for Soviet Navy divers and continue to be popular among enthusiasts of robust and historical timepieces.

Conclusion

Modern Russian watchmaking offers a wide range of options for collectors and enthusiasts. Whether you are looking for a piece of history or an innovative design, there is certainly a Russian watch that will meet your needs. Explore the brands listed above to find the perfect watch for you.

Russian Military Watches: A Comprehensive Guide

russian watch Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-1

Russian military watches represent an important chapter in horological history. These instruments were designed to be robust, reliable, and functional under the most extreme conditions. Soviet military watches were not just accessories but essential work tools for coordinating military operations. Used by various branches of the armed forces, including pilots, divers, navy officers, and vehicle crews, these watches were assigned to military personnel as part of their standard equipment.

Military or Militaristic Watches?

It is important to note that many Russian and Soviet watches are often mistakenly considered military. In reality, many of these were simply militaristic watches, often sold in Voentorg stores open only to military personnel. This limited access contributed to the mistaken belief that all these watches were exclusively for military use. An example of these militaristic watches is the Vostok Komandirskie.

Sturmanskie

Sturmanskie Type I and Type II

Sturmanskie Type I and Type II watches were provided exclusively to Soviet Air Force pilots. Type I was introduced in 1949 with a 15-jewel movement and a hacking feature for precise synchronization. Type II, introduced in 1954, had 17 jewels and improvements in shock and water resistance. Both models used radium on the hands and dial to ensure visibility in the dark, making them slightly radioactive Wikipedia on Sturmanskie Type I and Type II.

soviet watch Sturmanskie Type 1
Sturmanskie Type 1
soviet watch Sturmanskie Type 2
Sturmanskie Type 2

Sturmanskie Chronograph (3133)

This chronograph model, introduced in 1977, used the 3133 movement, known for its reliability and ease of maintenance. It was intended for pilots and cosmonauts and was distributed exclusively within the armed forces. The 3133 chronograph has become a symbol of precision and durability Official Sturmanskie website.

sovien chronograph watch Sturmanskie Air Force
Sturmanskie Air Force

Zlatoust (Agat)

Zlatoust watches, produced by the Agat factory, were primarily designed for Soviet Navy divers. Known for their large size and robustness, these watches used radium for luminescence, ensuring visibility even in complete darkness. Zlatoust watches are still appreciated today for their durability and unique design Official Agat/Zlatoust website.

soviet Zlatoust diver
Zlatoust Diver

Okean (3133)

Okean Watch

Launched in 1976, the Okean was a chronograph designed for Soviet Navy officers. It used the 3133 movement and included features such as a telemeter and chronograph. These watches were not available in stores and were distributed in limited quantities, often included in ship equipment. The Okean is known for its robust design and reliability under extreme conditions Voensklad.com on Okean 3133.

Vostok Ratnik

Vostok Ratnik 6E4-1 and 6E4-2

Vostok Ratnik watches are part of the “Ratnik” equipment adopted by the Russian Ministry of Defence in 2014. These watches are designed for military use and are included in the Russian soldiers’ equipment kit. Models 6E4-1 and 6E4-2 feature an automatic Vostok 2416 movement with 31 jewels, a stainless steel case, water resistance up to 200 metres (20 ATM), and anti-magnetic and shock-resistant properties. These watches are known for their robustness and reliability in extreme conditions Vostok-Watches24.com on Vostok Ratnik 6E4-1 and 6E4-2.

russian watch Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-2
Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-2
russian watch Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-1
Vostok Ratnik 6Э4-1

Poljot Strela

Poljot Strela watches (calibre 3017) were provided exclusively to high-ranking pilots and cosmonauts. These chronographs were highly valued for their precision and robustness, used in critical missions both in aviation and space Wikipedia on Poljot Strela.

Vehicle Watches

Watches used in military vehicles, such as planes and tanks, were built to withstand the harshest operational conditions. These timekeeping instruments often used radium to ensure readability in all conditions. They were essential for coordinating operations and controlling mission timings, significantly contributing to the operational effectiveness of the Soviet armed forces Wikipedia on Soviet military vehicle watches.

Considerations on Radioactive Materials

The use of radium in Soviet military watches was common to ensure visibility in the dark. However, with the emerging health risks associated with radioactivity, radium was gradually replaced by safer materials such as tritium and photoluminescent compounds. The transition from radium to tritium in Soviet watches occurred around 1960. This change was driven by the growing awareness of the health risks posed by radium and the need for safer alternatives Radium dial – Wikipedia, Worn & Wound, WatchUSeek.

Limited Access and Distribution

Many of these watches were assigned to military personnel as part of their standard equipment. They were not available through commercial channels but were distributed directly by the armed forces to active service members, significantly contributing to the operational effectiveness of the Soviet armed forces Wikipedia on Soviet military watches.

Final Observations

The list and description of Soviet military watches presented in this article are not exhaustive, given the long duration of the Soviet Union and the extensive production of military watches. It is impossible to provide a complete list of every single military watch created during that period.

These watches not only represent an important chapter in military horological history but continue to be appreciated for their quality, robustness, and unique history.


History of Poljot: From the First Moscow Watch Factory to Volmax and Maktime

russian watch Poljot Deluxe automatic

The “history of Poljot” begins with the establishment of the First Moscow Watch Factory (Первый Государственный Часовой Завод) in 1930, a key event within the framework of the first Soviet Five-Year Plan. This plan, launched in 1928, aimed to develop heavy industry and modernise the Soviet economy, and the creation of a state-owned watch factory was a significant part of this effort. On December 21, 1927, the Council of Labour and Defence approved a resolution to organise watch production in the USSR, with the goal of producing watches that were comparable in quality and precision to those from Switzerland and the United States​ (Poljot Watch)​​ (Moscow Watch)​.

Foundation and Early Years

The Birth within the Context of the Five-Year Plan

To achieve this goal, a group of Soviet engineers was sent to the United States to study production techniques. In 1929, the Soviet government purchased machinery and equipment from the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company in Canton, Ohio, and the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn, New York. These machines were transported to Moscow, along with 23 American technicians, to initiate production​ (Caliber Corner)​​ (KaminskyBlog)​.

Initial Production Years

Construction of the factory began in February 1930 and was completed by June of the same year. Official production started on October 1, 1930, with the first 50 pocket watches, known as Type-1 or К-43, based on the Hampden Size 16 calibre. Despite initial difficulties, including a shortage of skilled workers and frequent machinery breakdowns, production rapidly improved thanks to intensive worker training and the establishment of a repair workshop​ (Moscow Watch)​.

Expansion and Development

Dedication to Kirov and Production Growth

In 1935, the factory was renamed in honour of Sergei Kirov, a Bolshevik leader who had been assassinated. This event marked a period of expansion, with production reaching 450,000 pieces per year and the beginning of special watch production for cars and aeroplanes​ (Moscow Watch)​.

Evacuation during World War II

During World War II, the factory was evacuated to Zlatoust due to the advancing German forces. However, part of the equipment was brought back to Moscow in 1943, and the factory resumed production, focusing on wristwatches. This period also marked the beginning of the production of the renowned Pobeda watch​ (KaminskyBlog)​.

The Birth of the Poljot Brand

Name Change and New Models

In 1947, the factory was renamed the First Moscow Watch Factory and started producing the Pobeda wristwatch. In the 1950s, the factory became well-known for numerous innovative models, including the first Soviet automatic watches and special watches for Antarctic expeditions​ (Moscow Watch)​​ (Poljot Watch)​.

Introduction of the Poljot Brand

In 1964, all previous brands were consolidated under the name Poljot, which means “flight” in Russian. Poljot quickly became the flagship brand of the Soviet watch industry, producing historical watches used in important space missions, including those worn by Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space​ (Poljot Watch)​.

Decline and Post-Soviet Transformation

Decline in the 1980s and 1990s

In the 1980s, the quality of Soviet watches began to decline due to economic stagnation and technological difficulties. After the collapse of the USSR in 1991, the Poljot factory was privatised and transformed into a joint-stock company in 1992. However, financial and managerial difficulties continued to plague the company​ (KaminskyBlog)​.

Establishment of Volmax and Maktime

Volmax was founded in 2000 by a group of former Poljot employees. The company focused on producing high-quality watches using historical Poljot designs and movements. Brands such as Aviator, Buran, and Sturmanskie were revived under Volmax, keeping the Russian watchmaking tradition alive​ (Moscow Watch)​​ (KaminskyBlog)​.

Maktime, founded in 1996, acquired machinery and equipment from Poljot, including those necessary to produce the famous calibre 3133. Maktime continued the production of this movement and introduced various exclusive watch models, including skeleton watches with precious metal cases and decorations with precious stones​ (Caliber Corner)​.

Key Brands of the First Moscow Watch Factory

BrandDescription
PoljotMeans “flight” in Russian; introduced in 1964, becoming the main brand for export and domestic markets.
PobedaMeans “victory” in Russian; one of the first watches produced after World War II.
SturmanskieWorn by Yuri Gagarin on his first space flight; means “navigator”.
KirovskieNamed in honour of Sergei Kirov; one of the first brands after the factory’s name change in 1935.
MayakMeans “lighthouse” in Russian; one of the brands used in the 1950s and 1960s.
MoskvaMeans “Moscow” in Russian; used in the 1950s.
RodinaMeans “motherland” in Russian; the first Soviet watch with an automatic winding function.
SportivnieMeans “sporting” in Russian; watches with chronograph functions.
SignalMechanical watches with alarm functions; introduced in the late 1950s.
SputnikCommemorative of the launch of the first artificial satellite; introduced in 1957.
AntarktidaSpecial watches produced for Antarctic expeditions.
KosmosMeans “cosmos” in Russian; commemorative space watches.
OrbitaMeans “orbit” in Russian; one of the brands used for wristwatches.
StrelaMeans “arrow” in Russian; worn by Alexei Leonov during the first spacewalk.
VympelA brand for high-precision watches.
BuranAlso used for more recent models.
AviatorMainly used for aviator watches.

Main Calibres Produced

Mechanical Calibres

  • Calibre 3133: Based on the Valjoux 7734, this is one of the most renowned chronograph movements.
  • Calibre 2612: Mechanical movement with an alarm function.
  • Calibre 2609: Used in Sturmanskie watches.

Quartz Calibres

  • Calibre 2416: Quartz movement used in various Poljot models in the 1980s and 1990s.
  • Calibre 2431: Another quartz movement produced in the later years of Poljot’s operations.

Conclusion

The “history of Poljot” is a journey through decades of technological and historical changes, consistently maintaining the high quality and craftsmanship of Russian watches. The legacy of Poljot continues to live on through the efforts of Volmax and Maktime.


Poljot History: Soviet Watchmaking Excellence

soviet watch Sturmanskie Type 2

The Poljot brand represents one of the most significant symbols of the Russian watchmaking industry, with a history rich in technical successes and space adventures. Since its founding, Poljot has embodied the Soviet ambition to achieve technological self-sufficiency and establish itself as a world leader in watch production.

The Origins: From the United States to the Soviet Union

In the late 1920s, the Soviet Union relied heavily on imported watches, a necessity that cost the government precious gold. To end this dependency, it was decided in 1927 to start domestic watch production. In 1929, through the Amtorg Trading Corporation, the Soviet government purchased the facilities of two bankrupt American factories: the Ansonia Clock Company and the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company. Twenty-one former Dueber-Hampden employees moved to Moscow to train local workers, marking the beginning of the First Soviet Watch Factory.

Initially, the factory produced four main models: a 15-jewel pocket watch for the Ministry of Communications, a 7-jewel wristwatch for the Red Army, a 7-jewel civilian pocket watch, and a 15-jewel ladies’ wristwatch. Thanks to the training received, local workers soon managed production autonomously.

The War Period and Innovation

With the German invasion during World War II, the factory was relocated to Zlatoust and returned to Moscow in 1943. During this period, the factory also began producing ammunition. In 1946, the K26 Pobeda model was launched, followed in 1949 by the Sturmanskie model, designed exclusively for military aviation. This watch became famous when Yuri Gagarin probably wore it during the first human space flight on April 12, 1961.

In the 1950s, the factory continued to innovate, introducing the first automatic watch under the Rodina brand in 1956 and special models for unique missions, such as the Soviet Antarctic expedition in 1957. That same year, to celebrate the success of the Sputnik mission, commemorative watches were produced, remaining in production for only one year.

The Establishment of the Poljot Brand

In 1960, the first models bearing the Poljot name, which means “flight” in Russian, were launched. The brand became synonymous with quality and precision, exporting watches worldwide. The Strela chronograph, inspired by the Swiss Venus 150, was used by Alexei Leonov during the first spacewalk in 1965.

With the introduction of the Poljot brand in 1964, the factory consolidated all its models under a single label. The 1970s saw a renewal of available movements and the acquisition of production lines from the Swiss Valjoux, leading to the creation of the 3133 movement, a chronograph used for both military and civilian purposes.

The Post-Soviet Era and Revival

After the dissolution of the Soviet Union in 1992, Poljot was named the official supplier to the President of the Russian Federation. The company ceased quartz watch production to focus on a niche market, introducing new lines based on modified 3133 movements. However, the company had to downsize and sell machinery to other companies, leading to the founding of Volmax by some former Poljot employees.

Despite the challenges, in 2003, Poljot adopted the name First Moscow Watch Factory, continuing production for the international market. Today, the Poljot brand is recognized for its tradition of precision and reliability, keeping alive a history inseparably linked to aviation and space adventures.

Curiosities and Iconic Models

Among the most famous Poljot models are the “Sturmanskie” worn by Gagarin and the “Strela” chronograph, symbols of Russian space exploration. Poljot watches are handcrafted by skilled artisans, giving them a distinctive and unique character. Limited editions and the “Aviator” collection are particularly appreciated by collectors for their bold design and cockpit readability.

Insights into Poljot’s History

The 1930s: The Birth of the Soviet Watch Industry

In 1930, with the construction of the factory in Moscow, watch production began at a brisk pace. The first watches produced still bore the Dueber-Hampden brand, but soon Soviet technicians managed to develop entirely new models. The First Soviet Watch Factory, renamed in 1935 in honor of Sergei Kirov, achieved notable success, producing millions of pocket and wristwatches.

The 1940s: War and Reconstruction

During World War II, the factory was evacuated to Zlatoust to avoid capture by the Germans. During this period, besides producing watches, the factory contributed to the war effort by manufacturing ammunition and other military materials. After the war, in 1946, the factory launched the famous Pobeda model, a symbol of Soviet victory.

The 1950s and 1960s: The Space Era

In the 1950s, Poljot began producing watches for military aviation and Soviet cosmonauts. The Sturmanskie model, worn by Gagarin during his historic space flight, became an icon. With the launch of the first artificial satellite Sputnik in 1957, Poljot celebrated the event with a commemorative watch. Producing automatic watches and chronographs became a priority, leading to the creation of models such as Rodina and Strela.

The 1970s and 1980s: Innovation and Expansion

During the 1970s, Poljot continued to innovate, introducing advanced movements such as the 3133 chronograph. The factory acquired production lines from the Swiss Valjoux, enabling the production of high-quality watches for both military and civilian markets. The 1980s saw an increase in exports, with Poljot becoming an internationally recognized brand.

The Foundation of Volmax and the End of 3133 Production

In the late 1990s, Poljot ceased quartz watch production to focus on high-quality mechanical movements. However, economic difficulties led to the sale of movement production machinery to other companies, including Vostok. In 2002, some discontented employees left Poljot to found Volmax, a company that continues to produce watches under the Aviator, Buran, and Sturmanskie brands.

In 2003, Poljot adopted the name First Moscow Watch Factory, limiting the Poljot brand to the domestic market. Production of the 3133 chronograph movement, a milestone in Poljot’s history, ceased definitively in 2011, marking the end of an era.

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