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Complete Guide to Modern Russian Watchmaking

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Discover the key brands in modern Russian watchmaking with an in-depth analysis of each brand. Whether you’re an experienced collector or a novice, this guide will provide all the information you need to navigate the fascinating world of Russian horology.

Independent Brands

Raketa

Official Website: Raketa

Raketa is one of the most iconic names in Russian watchmaking, established in 1961 to honor Yuri Gagarin’s space flight. Known for their in-house movements, Raketa watches like the “Big Zero” and “Kopernik” are distinctive and innovative. These timepieces blend bold design with incredible technical precision, making Raketa a standout brand for those seeking unique watches.

Vostok

Official Website: Vostok

Vostok is celebrated for its robust and reliable watches, such as the “Amphibia” and “Komandirskie” lines. Founded in 1942, Vostok has a rich history of producing durable timepieces initially designed for the Soviet military. These watches are appreciated for their durability and functional design, perfect for outdoor enthusiasts and water sports lovers. The Amphibia line, in particular, is renowned for its water resistance and sturdy construction.

Luch

Official Website: Luch

Luch, founded in 1953 in Minsk, offers elegant and accessible watches with excellent value for money. Luch provides a wide range of designs, from classic to modern, known for their simplicity and reliability. Combining minimalist design with high precision, Luch watches are an excellent choice for those seeking elegance and functionality at an affordable price.

Poljot International Holding

Poljot International

Official Website: Poljot International

Poljot International continues the tradition of the famous Poljot brand, known for its chronographs and mechanical watches. Their models range from classic manual winders to sophisticated tourbillons, blending modern design with Russian tradition. The attention to detail and craftsmanship make these watches unique pieces.

Basilika

Official Website: Basilika

Part of the Poljot International holding, Basilika stands out for its unique and recognizable designs. These watches combine elegance and functionality, making them eye-catching for their distinctive aesthetics.

Volmax Holding

Sturmanskie

Official Website: Sturmanskie

Sturmanskie is known for its ties to Soviet aviation and space exploration. The “Gagarin” models commemorate the first human space flight, while the “Sputnik” line celebrates the launch of the first artificial satellite. Sturmanskie watches are valued for their durability and historical design, ideal for aviation and space enthusiasts.

Strela

Official Website: Strela

Revived under Volmax, Strela is famous for its chronographs used in Soviet space missions. Modern Strela watches retain vintage designs and use high-precision mechanical movements, making them popular among collectors for their history and reliability.

Aviator

Official Website: Aviator

Part of Volmax, Aviator produces watches inspired by aviation. These timepieces are designed to be robust and precise, evoking the golden era of flight. Aviator watches are perfect for those seeking a blend of functionality and aeronautical style.

CCCP Time (Hong Kong)

Slava

Official Website: CCCP Time

Slava, now associated with CCCP Time, produces Soviet-themed watches using restored Slava movements or modern Japanese movements. These models combine nostalgic design and reliability, reflecting the aesthetics of original Soviet watches. They are perfect for those looking for a piece of history with a modern twist.

Meranom

Buyalov

Official Website: Meranom – Buyalov

Buyalov, sold through Meranom, is known for its distinctive and artisanal watch designs. These models offer a unique blend of modern aesthetics and Russian watchmaking tradition, resulting in timepieces that are both elegant and functional.

Attache

Official Website: Meranom – Attache

Attache, another brand distributed by Meranom, is known for its elegant and professional watches. These timepieces are designed for the business audience, featuring sophisticated design and high-quality construction.

Amphibia

Official Website: Meranom – Amphibia

Amphibia is famous for its rugged and reliable diving watches, ideal for water sports enthusiasts. Known for their water resistance and durable construction, these watches are perfect for underwater adventures.

AGAT (Zlatoust Watch Factory)

AGAT

Official Website: AGAT Watch Factory

AGAT, also known as the Zlatoust Watch Factory, is famous for its robust diving watches and chronometers. Models like the “191-ChS” and “192-ChS” are particularly valued for their solid construction and iconic design. These watches were originally designed for Soviet Navy divers and continue to be popular among enthusiasts of robust and historical timepieces.

Conclusion

Modern Russian watchmaking offers a wide range of options for collectors and enthusiasts. Whether you are looking for a piece of history or an innovative design, there is certainly a Russian watch that will meet your needs. Explore the brands listed above to find the perfect watch for you.

History of Poljot: From the First Moscow Watch Factory to Volmax and Maktime

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The “history of Poljot” begins with the establishment of the First Moscow Watch Factory (Первый Государственный Часовой Завод) in 1930, a key event within the framework of the first Soviet Five-Year Plan. This plan, launched in 1928, aimed to develop heavy industry and modernise the Soviet economy, and the creation of a state-owned watch factory was a significant part of this effort. On December 21, 1927, the Council of Labour and Defence approved a resolution to organise watch production in the USSR, with the goal of producing watches that were comparable in quality and precision to those from Switzerland and the United States (Poljot Watch) (Moscow Watch).

Foundation and Early Years

The Birth within the Context of the Five-Year Plan

To achieve this goal, a group of Soviet engineers was sent to the United States to study production techniques. In 1929, the Soviet government purchased machinery and equipment from the Dueber-Hampden Watch Company in Canton, Ohio, and the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn, New York. These machines were transported to Moscow, along with 23 American technicians, to initiate production (Caliber Corner) (KaminskyBlog).

Initial Production Years

Construction of the factory began in February 1930 and was completed by June of the same year. Official production started on October 1, 1930, with the first 50 pocket watches, known as Type-1 or К-43, based on the Hampden Size 16 calibre. Despite initial difficulties, including a shortage of skilled workers and frequent machinery breakdowns, production rapidly improved thanks to intensive worker training and the establishment of a repair workshop (Moscow Watch).

Expansion and Development

Dedication to Kirov and Production Growth

In 1935, the factory was renamed in honour of Sergei Kirov, a Bolshevik leader who had been assassinated. This event marked a period of expansion, with production reaching 450,000 pieces per year and the beginning of special watch production for cars and aeroplanes (Moscow Watch).

Evacuation during World War II

During World War II, the factory was evacuated to Zlatoust due to the advancing German forces. However, part of the equipment was brought back to Moscow in 1943, and the factory resumed production, focusing on wristwatches. This period also marked the beginning of the production of the renowned Pobeda watch (KaminskyBlog).

The Birth of the Poljot Brand

Name Change and New Models

In 1947, the factory was renamed the First Moscow Watch Factory and started producing the Pobeda wristwatch. In the 1950s, the factory became well-known for numerous innovative models, including the first Soviet automatic watches and special watches for Antarctic expeditions (Moscow Watch) (Poljot Watch).

Introduction of the Poljot Brand

In 1964, all previous brands were consolidated under the name Poljot, which means “flight” in Russian. Poljot quickly became the flagship brand of the Soviet watch industry, producing historical watches used in important space missions, including those worn by Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space (Poljot Watch).

Decline and Post-Soviet Transformation

Decline in the 1980s and 1990s

In the 1980s, the quality of Soviet watches began to decline due to economic stagnation and technological difficulties. After the collapse of the USSR in 1991, the Poljot factory was privatised and transformed into a joint-stock company in 1992. However, financial and managerial difficulties continued to plague the company (KaminskyBlog).

Establishment of Volmax and Maktime

Volmax was founded in 2000 by a group of former Poljot employees. The company focused on producing high-quality watches using historical Poljot designs and movements. Brands such as Aviator, Buran, and Sturmanskie were revived under Volmax, keeping the Russian watchmaking tradition alive (Moscow Watch) (KaminskyBlog).

Maktime, founded in 1996, acquired machinery and equipment from Poljot, including those necessary to produce the famous calibre 3133. Maktime continued the production of this movement and introduced various exclusive watch models, including skeleton watches with precious metal cases and decorations with precious stones (Caliber Corner).

Key Brands of the First Moscow Watch Factory

Brand	Description
Poljot	Means “flight” in Russian; introduced in 1964, becoming the main brand for export and domestic markets.
Pobeda	Means “victory” in Russian; one of the first watches produced after World War II.
Sturmanskie	Worn by Yuri Gagarin on his first space flight; means “navigator”.
Kirovskie	Named in honour of Sergei Kirov; one of the first brands after the factory’s name change in 1935.
Mayak	Means “lighthouse” in Russian; one of the brands used in the 1950s and 1960s.
Moskva	Means “Moscow” in Russian; used in the 1950s.
Rodina	Means “motherland” in Russian; the first Soviet watch with an automatic winding function.
Sportivnie	Means “sporting” in Russian; watches with chronograph functions.
Signal	Mechanical watches with alarm functions; introduced in the late 1950s.
Sputnik	Commemorative of the launch of the first artificial satellite; introduced in 1957.
Antarktida	Special watches produced for Antarctic expeditions.
Kosmos	Means “cosmos” in Russian; commemorative space watches.
Orbita	Means “orbit” in Russian; one of the brands used for wristwatches.
Strela	Means “arrow” in Russian; worn by Alexei Leonov during the first spacewalk.
Vympel	A brand for high-precision watches.
Buran	Also used for more recent models.
Aviator	Mainly used for aviator watches.

Main Calibres Produced

Mechanical Calibres

Calibre 3133: Based on the Valjoux 7734, this is one of the most renowned chronograph movements.
Calibre 2612: Mechanical movement with an alarm function.
Calibre 2609: Used in Sturmanskie watches.

Quartz Calibres

Calibre 2416: Quartz movement used in various Poljot models in the 1980s and 1990s.
Calibre 2431: Another quartz movement produced in the later years of Poljot’s operations.

Conclusion

The “history of Poljot” is a journey through decades of technological and historical changes, consistently maintaining the high quality and craftsmanship of Russian watches. The legacy of Poljot continues to live on through the efforts of Volmax and Maktime.