Russian military watches represent a fascinating chapter in horology, blending technical innovation, functional design, and a deep connection to significant historical events. These timepieces have not only accompanied military personnel and specialists on crucial missions but have also become cult objects for collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.
The Origins of Russian Military Watchmaking
The Russian watch industry has deep roots dating back to the 1930s when the Soviet Union initiated domestic production to reduce reliance on foreign imports. In 1930, the First Moscow Watch Factory began manufacturing timepieces for both civilian and military use. This initiative marked the beginning of a horological tradition that would have a significant impact in the decades to follow.
Iconic Models and Their Historical Role
Sturmanskie Type 1 and Type 2
Sturmanskie watches were developed for Soviet military aviation and issued to pilots upon graduation. The Type 1, produced by the First Moscow Watch Factory in the 1950s, was one of the first timepieces designed for military aviation use. The subsequent Type 2, introduced in the 1960s, featured structural improvements and enhanced accuracy. This model is also believed to have been the watch worn by Yuri Gagarin during his historic space flight in 1961.


Sturmanskie Chronograph for Pilots
Alongside standard models, the Soviet Union developed a Sturmanskie chronograph, issued to pilots upon obtaining their licence. This watch featured a chronograph function, essential for navigation calculations and precise measurements during flight missions.

Zlatoust 191-ChS: The Deep-Diving Giant
One of the most remarkable Russian military watches is the Zlatoust 191-ChS, an extraordinarily large diving watch designed for Soviet naval divers. With a case diameter of approximately 60mm and a highly legible dial, this model has become legendary for its durability and reliability in extreme conditions.

Vostok “Ratnik” with Left-Side Crown
The Vostok Ratnik is an automatic watch developed as part of the advanced “Ratnik” military modernisation programme. The Ratnik project (“Ратник” in Russian, meaning “Warrior”) is a modular system introduced to enhance the efficiency and protection of Russian soldiers, incorporating body armour, visors, weapons, and advanced communication devices. Although the Vostok Ratnik was intended to be part of the standard military gear, it was never officially adopted, remaining an interesting piece for collectors.
Featuring a left-side crown, an automatic Vostok 2416 movement, and water resistance up to 200 metres, this model is particularly sought after for its connection to Russia’s military modernisation efforts.


Zakaz Watches and Voentorg Shops
In addition to officially issued watches, there are Zakaz models, specially ordered by the Ministry of Defence and sold in Voentorg military shops.
Voentorg (Военторг, an abbreviation of “Военная торговля,” meaning “Military Trade”) were exclusive stores reserved for Soviet military personnel, accessible only with a special permit. These shops sold uniforms, tactical equipment, field tools, and, of course, watches commissioned specifically for the Ministry of Defence.
Zakaz watches sold in Voentorg shops often featured special engravings, military unit insignia, and more advanced specifications compared to their civilian counterparts. Since they were available only to authorised personnel and not the general public, these timepieces are now particularly rare and highly valued by collectors.

Watches of the Red Army
Although many Soviet watches were not officially military-issued, some models were heavily inspired by the Red Army aesthetic. Among the most notable are the Vostok Komandirskie and Amphibia, originally produced for military personnel but later made available to the public. Featuring dials with military symbols and robust construction, these models remain highly appreciated among collectors.



Where to Find Russian Military Watches
Those interested in Russian military watches can explore specialist websites and platforms dedicated to horology. russianwatches.it is a great resource: while it is an e-commerce site, military or military-style watches occasionally become available, making it worth checking for potential acquisitions.
Conclusion
Russian military watches are a combination of history, engineering, and design. Whether you are an experienced collector or a newcomer, exploring this sector of horology offers the opportunity to own not just a timepiece but a piece of history rich in meaning and fascination.